a/c clutch seize up?

[NJGearhead666]

Well leave it to me to finally address my ac woes. Last year in September my ac stopped working. Well today I found the leak and fixed it. Pulled a vacuum for about 30 minutes no problems. Started adding 134a with the truck running. The compressor kicked on and then promptly seized up. I shut the ac off and the clutch unlocked. I can't spin the center of it by hand with the belt off. Can I get a new clutch or do I need a whole new compressor?

 

[jhnlennon]

If you can't spin the center by hand, and the clutch is disengaged(should be with truck off), then the compressor itself is seized. Time for a new compressor Id say...

 

[icanfixall]

I agree with whats posted above. You clutch is fine but the pump froze up internally. Your in need of a complete compresser and clutch setup. Some ac shops will sell just the compresser or just the clutch but its tuff to remove and install thos parts. Just buy a complete unit.

 

[NJGearhead666]

Yea I was afraid of that. What brands should I go with? I don't want some horrible reman that will fail me again

 

[FordGuy100]

Only buy new. Its actually cheaper once you consider that the reman compressor costs 2/3's, and will fail in short order (mine lasted a month), and then you have to buy a new one.

 

[lindstromjd]

And don't waste your money by not putting new oil into the system. That's probably why your compressor seized up.

 

[NJGearhead666]

I did put oil in the system. but the system had a hole in the liquid line on the low side so it prob didn't help the OEM compressor to much. I will just get a new compressor I don't like sweating to death in my truck while I'm working all day. I'll start tomorrow to price it out. thanks guys

 

[chris142]

Your also going to need an accumulater,orifice tube,flush etc.

 

[RLDSL]

If your compressor is jamming up, you really MUST install at the very least a filter in the suction line before teh compressor, and should have one in the line between the condensor ad orifice tube as well. THis is on TOP of flushing he system or your new compressor is likely to fail before long ( my compressor supplier insists on this for warranty claims on alll replacement compressors. and I dont blame them ... considering in all the many years I've been doing buisness with them , Ive never had one of their new comps fail, I kind of figure theres a lot of folks out there doing hatchet installs and then trying to blame the fails on them)

 

[Hit Man X]

Ahhh compressor black death. You have a hard row to hoe my friend. Flush that system until you are sick of flushing it. If it is not 100% clean, you will be doing it again. If you have factory 134A, that condenser will be a pain in the ass to flush properly. You may want to just consider a replacement for piece of mind.

Luckily these systems are comically simple to rebuild unlike my Euro cars that can really test your patience. TXV buried up under the dash on the driver's side.

'94 is when Ford starting doing factory 134A from all my research as I want to update the system in my '88 to a full factory 134A setup as my compressor is dying and I like being able to purchase refrigerant all over, I keep my R12 for the small capacity systems in the Euro stuff. 134A parallel flow condenser is about $100 new (factory bolt in), dryer is $40 ish, orifice tube is a few dollars (I have the tools if you need to borrow them), NEW compressors in mid to low $200s, evap core about $125 (yep different between R12 and 134A), low/high side manifold hose $100 or so, liquid lines are way cheap best I recall. Weigh and balance all of your options before you start buying parts.

I use this on the fittings and orings on my rebuilds. http://www.ackits.com/c/Nylog/Nylog+O-Ring+Lubrication.html



Hope it helps