94 na idi no start

snicklas

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Fuel Line Olive (installed on line)

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icanfixall

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Fuel Line Olive (installed on line)

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This fuel line olive should be slid back on the line enough for the line to fit into the brass fitting so it has only the line to seal on. the olive really does not seal the line by pushing in on the brass fitting. I realize the olive does in fact touch the brass fitting but it is supposed to become tight around the line to seal the leaks. I have no proof these olives are in our system to prevent vibration cracks but this is my belief that is why with have them. Any other thoughts on this idea of mine???
 

fsmyth

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Isolation from vibrations would also be my guess.
Although there are a LOT of diesel engines that use the simple flare fitting
on steel lines, and seem to have no problems (as long as all the line clamps
and holders are still installed).
If you will notice, the 2 lines that the IDI uses olives on have no other support.
That could be the reasoning here.
 

icanfixall

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From your posting I suggest your air leak is that rubber line from the frame rail to the lift pump. They get plenty of vibration and do fail. Think how old that is. Time to replace it. Also make sure your fuel tank level never gets down to 1/4 tank of fuel. Usually we find the suction shower head broken off and they can't suck out the last 1/4 tank of diesel. Dropping the rear tank or lifting the bed off is the only way to get that sender. The front tank sender can be removed from under the truck easily. Once removed the addition of about 3 inches of rubber hose will fix sucking the last 1/4 tank od fuel.
 

IDIoit

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Isolation from vibrations would also be my guess.
Although there are a LOT of diesel engines that use the simple flare fitting
on steel lines, and seem to have no problems (as long as all the line clamps
and holders are still installed).
If you will notice, the 2 lines that the IDI uses olives on have no other support.
That could be the reasoning here.

3 lines! :D and the return line does bolt to the intake.
the LP to FH line , some are clamped, some are not, i think factory, they had a clamp on the side of the filter head bracket.
 

fsmyth

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3 lines! :D and the return line does bolt to the intake.
the LP to FH line , some are clamped, some are not, i think factory, they had a clamp on the side of the filter head bracket.
Thank you for that. I was working off a sample of one, which looked factory stock when I got it.
IIRC, I replaced the return line with a fitting and hose soon after I got it, and completely forgot
about it. Made do for a long time with O-rings behind the old olives (none available around here,
and I had not found this amazingly helpful forum at that time).
 

ISPKI

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I replaces the olives from LP to FH with tygon hose, fit perfectly. The line from FH to IP is smaller though so I had to use regular factory hose from the return system but I cant get the olive off the IP side of the line. Also replaced the supply line from front tank to the LP. OP disconnected the front tank from the tank selector since thd selector was leaking. I went to start ig and found that I have a short in the electrical somewhere that killed my batteries so trying to find that and charge the bats. The throttle cable was lay on the GP relay terminals so im thinking tgat caused the short. Cant wait to see what kind of damage THAT caused.

Question: what keeps fuel from draining back into the tank from the LP? The fuel hose that I cut out leading to the LP had very little fuel in it.
 

ISPKI

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Well this will be the last update for this thread I think. I pulled the cap on the forward tank with the help of my chain wrench and the entire sender unit and shower head look to be new and shiny. I then went to see if I could track down the electrical short and found that the throttle cable did indeed short out across the GP relay terminals, melting a few wires in the process, so that will be my next project.
 

Agnem

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Those olives do get hard and brittle with age. We sell them individually, or as part of our advanced return line kit.
 

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