92 glow plug fuse?

[yARIC008]

It IS possible to just put the solenoid directly on a switch.

But the amp draw from the switch to the solenoid is minimum 8 to 30 amps. And can go even higher.

While it is fairly easy to find momentary on switches that can handle the amp draw, I think it just makes sense to have the protection of a fuse and a relay between that switch where your finger is, and the solenoid.

Maybe I’m misunderstanding you... but the glow plug relay is just a glorified starter solenoid. It doesn’t take 8-30 amps to power the relay coils. I have a little micro switch powering mine...

 

[Selahdoor]

You have the controller disconnected, So the solenoid is a completely separated part... and you are switching the solenoid with just a microswitch?

 

[Selahdoor]

Maybe I’m misunderstanding you... but the glow plug relay is just a glorified starter solenoid. It doesn’t take 8-30 amps to power the relay coils. I have a little micro switch powering mine...

Could you explain exactly how yours is set up, please?

I got this pic from another forum. Maybe you can use it to explain how yours is wired.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[dgr]

I went and measured the resistance in the coil of my 6.9 gpr. 3.4 ohms. That's 3.5 to 4 amps. I would think 10 amps would be plenty for wiring it. Your meter is much nicer than mine. What's it read?

http://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/idi-manual-glow-plug-switch.html

Looking at above the minimum would be to remove the white wire and run a switched to ground wire to that post. I don't like where they moved the blue wire. All it's telling you is you're pressing the button. But if it grounds to turn on the wts, you'd need something else to make it tell you the GP wires are getting power ... Like a small relay or even a transistor.

It appears a guy could put in a manual override switch on the controller pretty easily. Just cut the white wire and put a switch in it. Turn the switch on and the controller will work as normal. Turn it off and the controller is dead.

Why not take that whole controller out? You only need the solenoid for a manual system. The 6.9 system uses a standard round solenoid on the fender with the controller mounted on the engine. I'd bet a day old donut the 6.9 solenoid is the same as the one bolted to that controller.

 

[Selahdoor]

If my controller or solenoid are shot, I don't think any reading I'd get would mean anything.

If it takes 4 amps or less, to switch the solenoid, then a micro switch probably would work.

I've already planned on taking the complete system out. Probably leaving the harness, but insulating everything well.

I have a replacement harness with better connectors than mine has. I plan on setting the solenoid near the driver's side battery. Hook the harness to the solenoid. Then switch the solenoid manually.

I have other work to finish up first. Then I hope to get started on this, late today.

 

[dgr]

If my controller or solenoid are shot, I don't think any reading I'd get would mean anything.

Well before you throw a tractor starter solenoid in there, check for power at the top post in your pic. Ground the bottom post and see if that solenoid is good.

Whichever direction you go, ohm the coil to see what amperage it is going to pull.

Tractor solenoid may not be the same. They are typically case grounded to the pull in coil. The second post is designed to provide 12v to the ignition coil when cranking. You would need to run a switched hot wire to the tractor solenoid

 

[Selahdoor]

Thank you. Will do.

Actually going to go with a better solenoid: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MZHK48/

At this point even if I could "fix" the old system, I don't want to. I'll set up my own.