I’m looking to repair the front suspension of my ’90 F250 4x4. I’m not sure exactly what components are the problem. I do know the front springs are worn and sitting around 2” above the bump stops. I put new shocks all the way around and it helped significantly. Problem is, when hitting your average pothole or short and high bumps the font end sounds like it’s going to fall apart.(Excessive noise, rattling and slight loss of control) I know the name of the front suspension components but do not know how to diagnose the issue. I would prefer not to dump a lot of money into it but ultimately fixing it properly is my goal. Could anyone give me some feedback on how to diagnose this? I know there are many variables but any help would be appreciated. I am not against replacing all the components but I really don’t know exactly where to start. I’ve been searching for a while and am still left with doubt. If I do rebuild the IFS are there front end kits that can be purchased? What about a solid axle replacement? Thanks.
'90 F250 4x4 Front Suspension
- Thread starter CJCJ
- Start date
kcw12
CrazedCountryRebel
2 inch above bump stops, your doing good. Im not sure about hitting a hole and the such. Solid axle is a dana 60 and is a good way to go but pricey.
sounds like you should start checking the pivot bushings that the axle pivots on. the center on under the engine can be a culperate.
i guess i am assuming you looked over the regular spring bushing and such first.
a D60 solid axle swap is the way to go in my opinion but its not my wallet footing the bill
i guess i am assuming you looked over the regular spring bushing and such first.
a D60 solid axle swap is the way to go in my opinion but its not my wallet footing the bill
aaklingler
Registered User
How are your tie-rod ends. Have somebody turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look for play. Also jack one front tire off the ground and pull and push on it, then do the other side. Spring bushings are usually bad on this age truck. The 2" above the bump stops is normal.
hahn_rossman
Hahn Rossman
Is the 2" between the bumpstop and the axle? On both the trucks I deal with on a regular basis ( the one in the sig, and a 97 stroke) there is at best 3/4" between the stop and the axle. I've often considered new springs because of it.
Thanks for the replies. My guesstimate of the distance between the bumpstop and the axle was way off, there is only 5/8" clearance. I checked for play at the wheels and found none. Bearings to be repacked this weekend when I do the brakes all the way around. I also used a prybar under the wheel to check the balljoints and they seemed fine. However, when I took the truck in to be timed they had the "left front balljoint" noted under the "recommended maintenance". Who knows. I know they will want an arm and a leg though and winter is setting in so that will be a job for next spring. I will examine thing more closely this weekend and post back. Thanks!
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Well I just got back in town and am looking at doing the work on 'ol gray finally. Is the 5/8" clearance on the bump stops normal? Are new springs needed. I'm drafting up the parts list. more to come....
Thanks for all the help guys!
Thanks for all the help guys!
jimraelee
Full Access Member
is there a "ride height" chart floating around the net??? Ive wanted to get lifted on my truck. Since its used, I don't know if its originally this tall or has small lift on it. Seems ride height number would help out this guy and others
forcefed
Full Access Member
If you hit a bump and sounds like alot of noise could be numerous things. I would check the balljoints, tie rod ends, centerlink, sring bushings. If you have a person to help crawl uder the truck and have someone turn the steering wheel and you will be able to see slop if there is anything majorly wrong. Easy way to check baljoints is to jack up the front end grab the tire at 12 and 6 position and push and pull to feel any movement. If you feel some movement before considering its your balljoints check your wheel bearings to see if they are the source of movement. Sorry for all possibilities but I went throough mine this summer and ended up just replacing everything to be sure.
Well the tie-rods are in. Left side ball joints are toast. So, ball joints, pivot bushings, springs and steering box are on order. I've seen a few writeups on the ball joint procedure. Without air tools I read of a tool, picklefork I think, to aid in getting the spindle off. Is this correct? Also, since the above parts will all be replaced is there any recommendation as to disassembly and reassemble order? I figured I'd work through to the spindles and remove those then the springs then at that point replace the pivot bushings replace the springs then do the ball joints. Steering box last.
Jackstands on the framerail behind the springs toward the rear? Not looking to get crushed. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
Jackstands on the framerail behind the springs toward the rear? Not looking to get crushed. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
kcw12
CrazedCountryRebel
Ok, To remove the spindle, a really big freaking hammer. It down on top balljoint. It works for me.
azone or advanced rents out the tools you need. they have a tool that screws on the end of the spindle so you can use a slid hammer. i have done it the hard way and while they are not all like that i wont do it without that tool again. i would also highly recommend a ball joint press also that is basically like a giant c-clamp. you just use hand wrenches, in fact they tell you not to use air tools for them.
if you are replacing the spring bushings i would highly recommend using or getting a hold of someone with a press. those things rust in and can be extremely difficult to get out. another method if you don't have a press is to burn out the rubber with a propane torch and you can work the rest of the metal out much easier.
putting the jack stands behind the springs is what i do, just make sure they are tall enough.
i would also hold off on the steering box last, your bushing work will most likely take car of most of the slop.
if you are replacing the spring bushings i would highly recommend using or getting a hold of someone with a press. those things rust in and can be extremely difficult to get out. another method if you don't have a press is to burn out the rubber with a propane torch and you can work the rest of the metal out much easier.
putting the jack stands behind the springs is what i do, just make sure they are tall enough.
i would also hold off on the steering box last, your bushing work will most likely take car of most of the slop.
freebird01
Post Turtle!
ive used a regular hole saw in a drill to get 90% of a spring bushing out then drive the rest out with a hammer and punch
Question about replacement of the front springs. Is there a better solution than replacing the stock ones? ie. beefier F350 springs or something? I've found custom replacements for 154.00 apiece. It doesn't seem as if the stock ones are that great. I'm curious what others have done? I would like to have it functioning in stock form yet airbags could be an option. Should I just slap airbags on the front? The work will commence this weekend
