89 Navistar 7.3 idi----Learner Question

hrsitton

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Thanks. Pouring diesel in has been scratched.

There's a couple of places on Ebay that will do a rebuild for dirt cheap. I only need to move the truck 3 miles and it may then set another 5 years.

Hmmm......., what if the diesel was atomized with a sprayer during cranking?
 

hrsitton

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If I had a way to steer the truck I'd just tow it the three miles and fix it later. But there's no way to steer it without the engine running. Got brakes off the battery but no power steering.
 

DrCharles

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Why can't you steer it? Takes more muscle (mostly a problem when standing still) but the steering column is mechanically connected to the pitman arm with or without the hydraulic assist!

Now the lack of power brakes could be an issue if you don't have a big leg, but again the linkage is still intact and functional. Edit: looks like you have an electric vacuum pump so you're good there.

I drove my truck a couple of miles (low speed, cold day) when the serpentine belt popped off... just had to be firm with it :)
 

hrsitton

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I don't think the brakes are electric vacuum. There is a very large motor that appears to have fluid hoses attached to it. No vacuum canister as on a pickup. When the brake pedal is pressed, the motor starts turning.

For steering, this is not a pickup. It's a U-Haul with a 26 foot box. 32 feet bumper to bumper. Big truck tires.

It's been converted to a Funmover/motorhome which I'm actually living in. It is positioned where it needs the wheels turned all the way prior to moving to have a shot at making it through a gate.

I just need to get the dam* thing running. It ran fine when last used. I've had it to Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, all over.

I'm thinking I'll go ahead and buy or rig up a remote start button, disconnect the power to the glow plugs, and spray so little ether while cranking that it won't have a chance to start and then cautiously increase.

I had a Case backhoe and bulldozer along along with a Mack dump truck and an equipment truck with Detroit 40 years ago. Can't remember which, but I did use a little ether assist a few times back then. Didn't like to but in a pinch it worked.

I had a fuel pump problem with a vacuum leak and may have gotten a lot of air in the injector lines. (hoping)

The starter is within easy reach between the frame and engine so I'll just use my hand to test for temperature and make sure it gets no more than a little warm.

I know the truck will run if it get's a squirt of diesel out of the injectors, but of course that won't happen if the IP is glued up.

Five 30 second tries adds up to 2.5 minutes. I'll try that in 10 seconds bursts with rest in between and if it doesn't start I'll send the IP off for a rework.

I'll not leave this thread permanently until a solution is found and resolved.
 

snicklas

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In having personal experience doing this, I strongly suggest the 30 second period. I've tried the overly cautious 10 second or less tries, and not be successful. Every time you stop cranking, everything stops moving, including fuel. When trying to bleed it, the air will compress, as the fuel pushes against it. Once you stop cranking, the air will expand, pushing the fuel back, away from the injectors. The longer crank times will push more volume of fuel and are through the lines and out the injectors. I had a different truck I tried with the 10 second bursts, and tried all day to get it started. Next time I tried, I did the 30 second session, and had it started in just a few tries.

I understand being careful, I've been there, but being overly cautious can actually impede your progress. In this case, it's not the total elapsed time, but elapsed time to push the air through. I'd also suggest after 2 ore 3 sessions, crack one of the injector nuts and see if any wetness occurs around he nut, to see if fuel is being pushed out of the IP.
 

hrsitton

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What about leaving all the injector connections loose using a remote start button while watching for fuel at the injectors? That should prevent air build up?
 

snicklas

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That works also. Just remember, even holding the throttle wide open, the amount of fuel you will get from the injectior lines will be very little. It will only be a drip or two, it won’t be like holding the schrader valve open on the fuel filter, that will shoot a stream across the engine. It will just make the top of the injector and the nut damp. Think something that looks more like a slight leak, not pouring out.
 

hrsitton

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Well yeah, didn't think it'd be quite as much as the schrader but figured for a little more than that.

I've only tried about 5 or so 10 second tries. Only a couple with the on line loosened 3-4 turns. And when I tightened it some diesel ran down enough to wet the threads some.

Ok, so I may just not have tried long enough. The return from the IP is clear and should show some pooling it the connection I'd think, but I did not see any. When I get the remote button hooked up I can watch. But maybe if the lines are not full there won't be any extra for the return line?

I was going to hit working on it hard tomorrow but a bunch of cows came in today with babies that need eartags but I'll be cranking on it some more soon. Ether and WD-40 in hand also.

Thanks
 

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