junk
Full Access Member
HOLY CRAP they stole your front clip! 
That really sucks. I hate theives.
That really sucks. I hate theives.
89 CC build thread Frame off resto!! - Bad Idea
- Thread starter junk
- Start date
junk
Full Access Member
This is the vent rubbers before cleaning
This is the vent rubbers after cleaning. Not perfect, but pretty good. I focused on the visible spots.
This is the vent windows after I cleaned them up and painted the outside black again.
Started loading the windows in the front doors last night. Got the vent windows reassembled and reinstalled. Also got the passenger door glass channel installed and window installed. My 1/4" rivet gun made it in and I used that to rivet all the window regulators back in the doors.
Tonight or tomorrow I'm hoping to finish installing the drivers door glass and get started on the rear doors.
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This is the vent rubbers after cleaning. Not perfect, but pretty good. I focused on the visible spots.
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This is the vent windows after I cleaned them up and painted the outside black again.
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Started loading the windows in the front doors last night. Got the vent windows reassembled and reinstalled. Also got the passenger door glass channel installed and window installed. My 1/4" rivet gun made it in and I used that to rivet all the window regulators back in the doors.
Tonight or tomorrow I'm hoping to finish installing the drivers door glass and get started on the rear doors.
junk
Full Access Member
Last night I finished up loading all the rear door latches and weather stripping. Front doors have glass all installed. Next is to install the rear door glass.
Tomorrow it is supposed to be nice. I'm hoping to pull the truck out under it's own power for a maiden voyage. While it's out of the shop I plan to clean up the truck and the shop. Blow as much of the dust out as I can.
Tomorrow it is supposed to be nice. I'm hoping to pull the truck out under it's own power for a maiden voyage. While it's out of the shop I plan to clean up the truck and the shop. Blow as much of the dust out as I can.
junk
Full Access Member
Today was another big day!! I backed the crew cab out of the shop under it's own power. I think I still have a small brake line leak, but all things considered I was very happy. I sat on a 5 gallon bucket to drive it.
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junk
Full Access Member
Sorry no pictures. Moved the bed into the shop to start prepping it for paint.
Also cleaned and installed the rear windows. The rear windows were so dirty from sitting around and had window tint glue residue on them. I used a razor blade and glass cleaner to get them clean. Took a while. Also if anyone with a crewcab is needing new window channel weatherstripping the front door weather stripping does work. There is a little molded corner in that in the front doors goes in the joint between the vent window and the door frame. I placed that molded piece in the front corner of my back door and it fit really nice.
Also cleaned and installed the rear windows. The rear windows were so dirty from sitting around and had window tint glue residue on them. I used a razor blade and glass cleaner to get them clean. Took a while. Also if anyone with a crewcab is needing new window channel weatherstripping the front door weather stripping does work. There is a little molded corner in that in the front doors goes in the joint between the vent window and the door frame. I placed that molded piece in the front corner of my back door and it fit really nice.
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junk
Full Access Member
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Anybody got some crew cab rear door weather stripping they want to sell? I thought I rounded up some good stuff from the salvage yard, but I think I only came up with inside stuff. No outside belt line weather stripping. This would be the stuff that fits between the window and the outside door.
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Well the box is in the shop. My dad sanded the current primer well in prep for a new and final coat of primer before I squirt the color. I fixed the dent from where I hit it with my tractor bucket.
I also finished out hooking up the a/c lines and pulled a vacuum on them looking for leaks. Appears to be leak free.
junk
Full Access Member
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We's got headlights.
And we have Windshield. I'm anxious to get the windshield trim installed now.I picked up a used ford mounting bracket for the grill & headlights, but other than that the front end plastic is all aftermarket. All in all it fit nice. Probably not as good as ford stuff, but for $180 bucks who's complaining. Once it was all installed it fit nice and consistent. Good gaps. The lights are all TYC, headlight chrome trim are Keystone, and Grill is some fuyang brand.
Next big step is painting the pickup box.
freebird01
Post Turtle!
Thats a very nice color...im surprised you didnt two tone it though
junk
Full Access Member
Yeah I like the color a lot also. And I will be two toning it, but more like the newer trucks are done. I'm going to put a two tone along the bottom and on to fender flares. I'm going with a street flare that has a very slight flare to it. I'm also playing with the idea of having the ranch hand front/rear bumpers and running boards all done in the 2nd color also. I want them done in bed liner though. Supposedly the local Linex can match to colors pretty good. Or Raptor liner is supposed to match well also, but then I have to do it vs having someone do them. It's always a struggle between time and money.
T5 dark copper - main
AQ Arizona beige- bottom color.
4U1A light oak-interior
Similar look to this when done.
T5 dark copper - main
AQ Arizona beige- bottom color.
4U1A light oak-interior
Similar look to this when done.
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junk
Full Access Member
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I moved the truck out of the shop and into my garage. With the rear bumper pushed against the shelving on the back wall there is about 2" between the front frame horns and the garage door. I'm going to have to clean out the garage to get the truck in here once the front bumper is on it.
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Here is a better picture of the front end.
junk
Full Access Member
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In these pictures the original bumper is upside down on top of the new bumper. Sorry they are on the side.
I've been mocking up the rear bumper now. It's for a 99 up super duty. The width and frame brackets are good. I'll need to notch out the corners like the old bumper has. My biggest concern is that the new bumper sticks out about 5" further than the old bumper. My receiver hitch is now 5" forward of the rear bumper vs even with the back of the bumper.
How do I handle this? I'm thinking about doing a receiver extension that is bolted to the ranch hand rear bumper also?
If you hitch is like mine, the rear most mounting tab is at the back of the frame rails so sliding it back isn't an option. I have seen other style hitches where the reciever sticks out the back farther but I couldn't begin to tell you where. I don't know how heavy a hitch you need but you might look at something more universal and see if you can get that moved out a bit.
Might take a look at this one. Compared to the others for a OBS truck, it looks like it has a longer reciever tube.
http://www.etrailer.com/product.asp...992&vehicleid=1992208531#prod-acc-onlyreviews
Might take a look at this one. Compared to the others for a OBS truck, it looks like it has a longer reciever tube.
http://www.etrailer.com/product.asp...992&vehicleid=1992208531#prod-acc-onlyreviews
ironworker40
NYC Ironworker
Nice build. I'm thinking of pulling my cab this summer. Any idea of the weight of a crew cab with everything still in it except seats? I was thinking of lifting it and moving it to the rear and blocking it up,doing all the work up front, then after I put it back I would do the rear frame.
junk
Full Access Member
Thanks for the comments!
I'm not sure what the cab weighs, but it's deceivingly heavy. My stripped cab with no doors or interior was a beast to move around. Although to do what your talking about shouldn't be hard. Use a floor jack with a chunk of 4x4 that will fit between your floor jack and cab floor to lift it up. I would probably put round wood poles under the cab and roll it back to where you want then block the cab solid again. May not roll as easy as I think. Or block up the cab over the frame and roll the frame forward to where you want.
We used 2x6's under the cab to remove it. They went side to side and where chained to pickup camper jacks. It was scary. I wouldn't do that again. Also with the flex in the 2x6's it slightly bent the rockers on the cab. I also would be leary about lifting from above. Don't touch the drip edges or they can fold in. To put the cab back on I used two engine pullers hooked to the front and back of the cab. It worked OK. Not scary, just a pain.
When you start pulling her apart put up a build thread. Always fun to watch those.
Thanks
Jeremy
I'm not sure what the cab weighs, but it's deceivingly heavy. My stripped cab with no doors or interior was a beast to move around. Although to do what your talking about shouldn't be hard. Use a floor jack with a chunk of 4x4 that will fit between your floor jack and cab floor to lift it up. I would probably put round wood poles under the cab and roll it back to where you want then block the cab solid again. May not roll as easy as I think. Or block up the cab over the frame and roll the frame forward to where you want.
We used 2x6's under the cab to remove it. They went side to side and where chained to pickup camper jacks. It was scary. I wouldn't do that again. Also with the flex in the 2x6's it slightly bent the rockers on the cab. I also would be leary about lifting from above. Don't touch the drip edges or they can fold in. To put the cab back on I used two engine pullers hooked to the front and back of the cab. It worked OK. Not scary, just a pain.
When you start pulling her apart put up a build thread. Always fun to watch those.
Thanks
Jeremy
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