88 Ford f-250 7.3 idi - have to short starter relay to crank.

[Joshua Hess]

Hello all, so bought an idi here recently.
I'm new to diesels and this is my first truck . Bought it to keep me out of trouble until I can get it running consistently. We'll see then [emoji16].

Anyway, the ****** runs great once I get it started. Tonight I was trying to fire it up when all of a sudden it just quit cranking. No click, no crank nothing. If I short the starter relay, it turns over fine so that probably means, new starter relay correct?

On another note, if I have the key on the running position without it running, I am getting a constant clicking at the IP pump. Is that normal?

Anyway total newb, but it's been fun so far. Been reading the forum here and learning all I can.


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[chillman88]

No click, no crank nothing. If I short the starter relay, it turns over fine so that probably means, new starter relay correct?

Normally I'd say yes but...

On another note, if I have the key on the running position without it running, I am getting a constant clicking at the IP pump. Is that

This might be the whole issue. I am assuming you're sure it's the IP and not just the glow plug controller cycling.

Key on engine off probe both of the single plugs to the IP with a voltmeter (the connectors in the wiring harness). You'll want to wiggle the harness while you're doing this. Engine COLD they both should have CONSTANT battery voltage. Engine hot only one should. I can never remember which one is the FSS so might as well test them both.

If you have ANY voltage cutout there is your issue. Voltage should be steady and constant. If that checks out fine run a jumper wire directly from the battery to each of the IP connections one at a time (the ones ON the IP, not the harness). There should be one or maybe two clicks and then no more noise until you remove the jumper wire. If you hear a constant clicking with your jumper wire attached the problem is in the IP. Don't worry, both of those pieces are replaceable.

 

[Clb]

Sounds more like a key switch \ing. Switch interconnect rod issue!


The key switch up top of column is just a lock , that pushes a rod inside the outter housing that opperates the ing. Switch down by the pedals....

Enjoy this AWESOME bit of ford tech.
I forget how you get at it all...
Somewhere way back I posted a thread when mine broke.
Good luck.

 

[Cubey]

Is it an automatic? If so, will it start normally in neural? If the neutral safety switch goes, it won't start in park. Everything will go dead electrically (radio, etc) when you turn it to start while in park. Beware that if that's the case, you won't have any backup lights either. My F250 is that way. It became second nature really fast to always shift to N before cranking it.

 

[Joshua Hess]

Normally I'd say yes but...



This might be the whole issue. I am assuming you're sure it's the IP and not just the glow plug controller cycling.

Key on engine off probe both of the single plugs to the IP with a voltmeter (the connectors in the wiring harness). You'll want to wiggle the harness while you're doing this. Engine COLD they both should have CONSTANT battery voltage. Engine hot only one should. I can never remember which one is the FSS so might as well test them both.

If you have ANY voltage cutout there is your issue. Voltage should be steady and constant. If that checks out fine run a jumper wire directly from the battery to each of the IP connections one at a time (the ones ON the IP, not the harness). There should be one or maybe two clicks and then no more noise until you remove the jumper wire. If you hear a constant clicking with your jumper wire attached the problem is in the IP. Don't worry, both of those pieces are replaceable.

This has seemed to be the most likely problem at this point. On the one connection I'm getting a steady 6 volts on the other it is fluctuating between 1 and 2 volts. If I jumper it straight to the battery, there is 1 click and all is silent so I assume that there is an issue in the wiring somewhere? How do I proceed?

Oh and it is a 5 speed manual so neutral should not be an issue and I don't see any clutch safety switch that could be bad. I think some of the newer models had one but not this truck.

 

[chillman88]

Which one is which as far as voltages goes?

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The fuel shutoff solenoid is the most important one. The engine will run regardless of whether or not the cold advance has power.

Yes you do have a clutch safety switch unless a previous owner removed it. That being said, the clutch safety switch is tied directly into the starter engagement. If you are having intermittent voltage to the IP then the clutch safety switch isn't the issue. If it works fine unless you power the small terminal on the fender solenoid that could be the clutch safety.


How did you jumper the starter relay. Did you jump power between the big studs or did you jump the small terminal? If you jumped power between the big ones, try just putting battery voltage to the small terminal. If it cranks then the starter relay is fine.

Have you checked the harness connector on the passenger side fender? Should have about 10 wires going into it. Wouldn't hurt to pull that apart and make sure there's no corrosion and the contacts are clean.

 

[Joshua Hess]

Ok, so the cold timing advance was the one that was fluctuating between 1 and 2 v. The shutoff holds steady at 6.
I did try to jump it to the small terminal and she started to crank. I'll go ahead and try to clean the harness connector up tonight. Wouldn't surprise me if that is the issue then.
The guy I bought it from said it was left sitting outside by a farmer for who knows how long.
I'll make sure the clutch sensor is there too or try to anyway. I didn't see any sensors on the clutch though... Thanks a lot for guiding me this far!!

 

[chillman88]

Clutch safety switch looks like this:

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It's on the pedal rod up against the firewall under the dash.

It's more likely to be in the steering column than the safety switch though.

If you get everything else sorted out, you can try messing with the ignition switch on the base of the steering column. If it was me, I personally would drop the column and unbolt the switch. Before you do that turn the key a little bit and watch how it works. Once that's done you can try manually sliding the switch. If the actuator is broken in the column you will be able to slide the switch farther than the key would. When you do, it should attempt to start (assuming the clutch safety works and you have the clutch pedal depressed).

 

[Clb]

Btw
You can jumper the clutch safety switch so as to not need to depress the clutch to start, it has 2 circuits figure out which one ya need and back probe a jumper wire.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Btw
You can jumper the clutch safety switch so as to not need to depress the clutch to start, it has 2 circuits figure out which one ha need and back probe a jumper wire.

That's what I do with mine.

 

[Joshua Hess]

So, the clutch safety switch was actually not on the clutch. I'm thinking it is bypassed farther up in the wiring harness or something.
Anyway I finally got it to spin, and yeah, it looks like it is the switch interconnect that has gone bad. I can get it to spin, but the key sticks in the start position without automatically returning to run like it is supposed to. So I guess I'll have to take the steering apart.
Thanks for pointing me in that direction guys. Gonna be a interesting project.

 

[chillman88]

So, the clutch safety switch was actually not on the clutch. I'm thinking it is bypassed farther up in the wiring harness or something.

Could have been converted. Or a previous owner removed it. The wiring is the same between the auto and manual trucks, manuals got the switch, autos got a jumper block. I put a jumper block from an auto in mine and removed the switch. Just FYI.

So I guess I'll have to take the steering apart.

I'm sure there's a write up on here for it. I personally haven't done it yet. Doesn't look too hard, just time consuming.

 

[Clb]

Big *** pita cuz it could have been engendered out.
But, I bought a new key switch and gutted my lock cyl.
Then affected a repair.

 

[Joshua Hess]

Thought I would update everyone with what I found. Had the steering wheel off a couple days ago and the actuator looked fine. Wasn't cracked or bent as far as I could tell so I left it in.
In looking at the ignition switch, I found out that the nuts holding it on where not tight. Moved the switch up the column a bit, tightened and now she fires right up. Oh and if the actuator ever does break, I got one ready to take it's place . Thanks for all the help.

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[IDIBRONCO]

GOOD NEWS!