'86 F250 XL Supercab 6.9 4X4

[D.A.V_Oil_Brnr]

Hello everyone.

I am rather new to the diesel genre even though I am a disabled U.S. Army Abrams Battletank Mechanic. I have a 1986 Ford F250 XL Supercab Diesel 4X4 (6.9L). It has the manual transmission and a gear vendors over-under drive unit. Also has a nice front workbench, I mean ***** bumper which has a M12000 Warn in it. Truck has a few minor issues, but is solid and 98% straight. Been lifted a little, but looks done well. I believe the Front Twin Beam Axle is the Dana 50, but I must have one of the non-stamped ones if it is as I am unable to find the stamping. The truck was once owned by a electrician and so it has a ton of household electrical wiring in it that I am removing little by little. And, it has drivers and passenger unity spot lights I have to replace as both are rusted and worn out. The dumb jerk that owned the truck before me decided to be a pot smoking braniac and "go green" by filling the truck with 100% biodiesel with no filter change or anything at all. After replacing several parts he damaged, I ended up buying the truck from him and it actually runs in my care (seeing as I know what DIESEL is). At the very least, I got the truck to stop smoking. The only problem I have is that i need a new dash panel, and I have to find out where the fuel lines are sucking air.

Which brings me to this forum. I would like to toss myself in the laps of a few of the knowledgeable oil burners to make sure I know EVERYTHING I am doing with the old girl. I have a tool collection started, enough spare fuses to supply Fort Knox, and 2 repair manuals from Haynes (one diesel engine specific). I can grab a few pictures For those that wish to salivate, just ask for them. After the dash panel and fuel lines, I have to fix the fuel gauge and find out why the engine light keeps coming on (I know the engine seems to run cold....). The glow plugs are new, the harness has been redone (by me), both solenoids are new, the main positive and negative battery cables are new, the lift pump is new, the fuel filter and water separator filter are both new, the alternator has been tested good, and the regulator is new. The brakes seem to be a touch soft in rear so that is a project once i find a spot to do it. I installed a special edition cobra CB with twin phase antennas (and because the antennas got jacked, I have to replace the antennas and mounts for about $100.00).

All in all, the truck is good. Just needs a good owner. Which with the help of the oil burning special forces, I hope to be one. So any questions, ideas, concerns, general comments, or anything not covered is fully welcome. It's why I posted here after all.

p.s. : Mid post once I finished with the text, I decided to just go take pictures with my phone. I will post what my phone took, tho there will be doubles as my phone takes pictures differently than I am used to and I have not taken time to learn what is what. I am an idiot with an android phone, but put me next to a vehicle and look out... Also, I apologize in advance if I post to many photo's en masse.

 

[david85]

Phone pictures are always better than no picture! Welcome!

Your engine light is probably a wiring issue with one of the temperature sensors. Engine overheat is the only reason it will ever come on. There is one temp sensor near the bottom of the thermostat goose-neck housing that activates your high idle cold advance (normally closed).

Then there are another two sensors on the driver's side of the engine (front).

You must be registered for see images

(courtesy of Dave Sponaugle)

I'm guessing the temp light switch (normally open) is either shorted, or the wires for the harness are grounding out somewhere along the way.

EDIT: I just realized you have one of those rare side mount turbochargers in there. We don't see one of those every day.

 

[D.A.V_Oil_Brnr]

DOH!!



NOW i know what that loose wire is I had thought it was the temp gauge wire...

 

[oregon96psd]

whats wrong with the fuel gauge?

 

[D.A.V_Oil_Brnr]

Fuel Mis-metering

When i first acquired the vehicle, the gauge worked. Then shortly thereafter it went sporadic like it had alzheimer's and didn't know what the hell it was doing and now it just doesn't register at all. I am looking into electrical symptoms first. Then I will look at the tank, which I will hate because Ford in their wisdom permanently sealed the sending unit.

 

[oregon96psd]

both tanks or just one?

 

[gonecrazyi]

The sending unit has a lock ring that has to be turned in order to remove the unit itself. Dirt and mud tend to make it look like its solid. Couple sacks from a screw drive and hammer should fix ya up.

 

[FordGuy100]

Wow someone finally bought it! That truck has been for sale since I was living in Oregon. Hopefully you didn't pay as much as he was asking then

 

[D.A.V_Oil_Brnr]

20 questions

To answer everything,


The fuel gauge does not work on EITHER tank. Like I stated above, the gauge worked at first then stopped after behaving alzheimer-like. Tapping the gauge doesnt do anything and wiggling wires does nothing as well. Can not find any breaks in the wiring either. I have checked the Fuel tank selector valve and it SEEMS ok. Fiddling with the wiring hasn't seemed to help either. All I know about the truck is that it was owned by an electrician at some point, then a wannabe pot boy had it and ran straight bio in it and screwed it up to the point it would not even try to start. So that is how the truck got so many new parts and why I know so much about that irritating closed loop fuel system On the bright side of things, I know a crap load of things that ARE good on the truck now As for the price, I made about $150.00 working on the truck, then paid the pot boy $1,800.00 for the truck. He tried to get more but I bluntly looked at him and told him "look dude, nobody is going to buy the truck NOT running, and quite frankly, I happen to know whats wrong with it. take it or leave it" He took it for $1600.00 + $100.00 storage and $100.00 for something else I do not recall. I believe I got a decent deal. That, and I feel confident in my ability to work on it. Lastly, as for the fuel sending unit, I know full well how it is secured to the fuel tank, but some decided to bend the slider tabs on the unit so its perma-installed. I have to get a dremel and cut off wheel to remove it, period. If I can get a picture I will, but that requires removing the driveline because the gear vendors unit is RIGHT THERE. It's literally frame-fuel tank-gear vendor unit-exhaust-frame. Thank you for the responses tho, I appreciate the knowledge base and wisdom.

 

[OLDBULL8]

There should be a constant voltage unit for the fuel gage on the back of the gages. Be damn careful with that Dremel, fumes explode, can't you just bend the tabs back.

 

[FordGuy100]

That truck was for sale for roughly 4-5k when I saw it on craigslist. Pot boy took a big hit (it was for sale for so long if pot boy bough it off the guy he paid full price). Good score!

 

[D.A.V_Oil_Brnr]

Tabs and Things

The tabs have been bent on the fuel sending unit so they wont bend. I tried with a large screw driver and a hammer, didn't even budge an inch. All I did was make a crap load of noise.

As for pot boy, I have no idea if he bought the truck for said price. All I know is that he got the truck (he said it used to be owned by an electrician, but neglected to say how many owners ago that was) and decided it had to be "green" and so he screwed it up to the point he got rid of it. I think the truck cut into his pot budget from the way he acted. But $5000.00

The truck does need a little work here and there. But what dependable vehicle doesn't need maintenance and a good owner? I am going to need a new gauge panel, if anyone knows where I can get a diesel one. The one I have is cracked, and the plastic tabs on the back for the indicator lights (turn signal, 4x4, etc) are missing thanks to a . If I just had the money this month to replace the antenna's for my CB that were stolen from me. That's $100.00 I don't have because of the idiots I live with. Can't do anything about that until December (hopefully). {for those wishing to inquire into that, you will have to talk to me elsewhere. It is not fit for this place of discussion. Perhaps using my xfire chat program.} Last note, I looked into those 2 wires for the sending units and all my work did was make the engine temp light on the dash stop flashing and just go dull, but never off even with the engine at temp.

 

[D.A.V_Oil_Brnr]

Which reminds me...

One thing I do have concern over is my power steering. It seems to working then not work, or sort of working jerkily and when I turn the wheel I get a distinct *klunk* going from left to right but only after turning left first. *confused...* Any ideas? The belt squeals, but it is brand new (I installed it myself to proper deflection), and it only squeals when the steering stops working or the steering wheel is at bump stops. Wonder if the pump is going south...

 

[D.A.V_Oil_Brnr]

Injectors

Here are my injectors, I do not know exactly what "code" they are. I looked them up because "f" code injectors were mentioned in another thread.

injector stanadyne 781535 :

injector part number = (navistar)780430
injector inscription code = C or D
customer part number = 1813345C91
holder part number = 781535
nozzle part number = 770536
nozzle inscription code = SDN 0MD 770536
application = 1984-87 6.9L, 1988-92 7.3L

 

[OLDBULL8]

The injector code is stamped on the side of the wrench hex. If they are original, painted Grey, they prolly are E code.