86 F-250 front caliper replacement

[Waystro]

Ok as some of y'all know my truck was pulling to the right while driving I'm thinking it might be my front caliper so I'm trying to figure out how to replace them. And I'll have to do a brake flush right?
Also how to check for loose steering?

 

[BDCarrillo]

Loose steering is caused by worn rod end joints. Check for play in the steering linkages. A pull can be caused by uneven tire wear, low air, a HARD pothole hit, etc.

If you do disconnect the caliper from the line, just a bleed job. You'll know if it's the caliper by the brake pads.

 

[79jasper]

Flush the fluid.
Jack the front end up and check the ball joints, and all steering components.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[The Warden]

As the others said, check ball joints and bushings...although it is also possible to have a worn steering gearbox, or a worn steering shaft (that connects the wheel to the box).

As to the brake calipers...as the other said, make sure you do a comprehensive flush of the brake hydraulic system! This is an often-neglected maintenance item, but really, it should be done annually. New brake fluid is almost clear.

As to how to replace the calipers...on '80-'86 trucks, there's a metal key at the bottom of the caliper with a flat spring between the key and the caliper itself. There's a bolt holding the key in place; remove the bolt and take a flat punch and hammer the key out. Once the key's out, rotate the bottom of the caliper out and the top should pull out.

Take a look at the pictures:

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When you reassemble it all, make sure to liberally apply lubricant to all sliding surfaces, most notably where the top and bottom of the caliper slide on the mounts. I had a caliper seize on a sliding surface...the piston was fine, but the caliper ended up not being able to move when the piston retracted...the other three pads had over 50% material left, but one pad was worn to the metal

Hope this helps some...good luck

 

[mblaney]

Remember this when you are flushing your brake system; the bleeder for the calipers is on the top (obviously, to let air out). Water and crap will accumulate in the bottom of the caliper and will not come out with simple bleeding. I suggest taking the caliper off and inverting it, try to get as much **** out as possible. Otherwise you are only flushing the brake lines, not the actual caliper. If you have spare copper washers, remove the flex line and put it on a bench. Ever notice that if one of the dual pistons sticks it is usually the bottom one?

 

[Waystro]

As the others said, check ball joints and bushings...although it is also possible to have a worn steering gearbox, or a worn steering shaft (that connects the wheel to the box).

As to the brake calipers...as the other said, make sure you do a comprehensive flush of the brake hydraulic system! This is an often-neglected maintenance item, but really, it should be done annually. New brake fluid is almost clear.

As to how to replace the calipers...on '80-'86 trucks, there's a metal key at the bottom of the caliper with a flat spring between the key and the caliper itself. There's a bolt holding the key in place; remove the bolt and take a flat punch and hammer the key out. Once the key's out, rotate the bottom of the caliper out and the top should pull out.

Take a look at the pictures:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

When you reassemble it all, make sure to liberally apply lubricant to all sliding surfaces, most notably where the top and bottom of the caliper slide on the mounts. I had a caliper seize on a sliding surface...the piston was fine, but the caliper ended up not being able to move when the piston retracted...the other three pads had over 50% material left, but one pad was worn to the metal

Hope this helps some...good luck

Thanks everyone for the tips. This site is awesome