$850 1994 Complete D60 front axle, did I get a good deal?

6 Nebraska IDIs

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Its complete, minus the drop link brackets that are riveted to the frame. Hoping I can pick those things up cheap somewhere.
All the bushings look good enough to get 50k out of them before needing to change them out.
Ball joints are tight, and the inner axle bearings are tight as well (the ones inside the spindle). Gears are good and tight, and smooth. Tie rods look good enough to use, but not sure I'll risk it.
The guy wanted $1100 for it, but all I had was $900 to play with, so I offered $700 and he settled at $850. Any D60 I've seen at swap meets have an asking price of $1400-1600.
To top it off, its the one with the steering stabilizer bracket molded into the passenger lower spring perch. :thumbsup:
 

icanfixall

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Pull the cover and drain the oil before you get too excited. We remember how the motor issue happened.... It does sound like you got a great deal....:thumbsup:
 

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Haha, good point. Yea, im pulling the cover this weekend and draining the oil, just in case its been outside. We had rain all day today too.
 

riotwarrior

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Don't forget to compare axle ratios just in case it was changed without prior knowledge.....seems someone or two here has made that mistake too LOL
 

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Here's a pic of it.
Had some fun getting the calipers off of it, even cracked one, lol. Guess I smacked it a little hard. :angel:
The ball joints are TIGHT! All the rubber sway bar bushings and all look great, the tie rods all look good except for one the rubber is missing on. I may get out on this axle with pretty much slapping it in without much work! ;Sweet
Its going to get new rotors, calipers, pads, and brake lines. Im pulling the cover this weekend, and changing the oil. I may have to replace the outside axle seals? When I was unloading it, it was hanging at either side at times and I noticed oil dripping out of it. Is this normal when its tilted to the side? Or should it be completely sealed?
 

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MeanGreen

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Just to let you know, the drop bracket for the track bar is bolted to the crossmember, not riveted, and uses hole that were shared with the TTB axle. When I converted my old 88 from a 250 to a 350, zero holes had to be drilled or enlarged.
Jerry

EDIT: NEVER MIND. I guess you were referring to the links for the swaybar. If so, yeah, rivets. I have some hanging on my truck, not used (I removed the front and rear sway bars when I lifted it) But mine are staying put....too much work to remove 'em!
 

6 Nebraska IDIs

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Yea, the sway bar brackets. I have the track bar and the track bar bracket.
But I did find the sway bar brackets today! $25 supposedly. I ordered what they had, we'll see if they are the correct piece.
 

BigRigTech

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When I stripped the 89 F350 for my D60 axle, the drop bracket for the track bar was bolted on to the engine crossmember with metric bolts....Pretty much everything else was rivet...Good luck getting the axles to seal. My axle shafts where dry as a popcorn fart when I hauled them out for the gear swap so I didn't change the seals (which are inboard next to the bearing caps on the crown gear carrier) but ever since I put them back in they seep a little...Unless they are ******* all over the ground I ain't touching them...LOL...I left both of my sway bars off...Better articulation in the woods and with load range E tires I don't need them.

http://www.offroaders.com/directory/axles/dana60.htm

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html
 

6 Nebraska IDIs

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So youd say I have an issue with it draining oil out of it? It wasnt leaking anything until we had it tetering around from side to side.
I suppose a person would have to pull the gears and everything to install new inner axle seals?
 

BigRigTech

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Yup the guts need to comeout for a seal replacement...They are a loose fitting seal and unless the hubs are locked the axles flop around in the tubes - to me so leakage would be normal....Just try moving them around locked and unlocked - you wil see what I mean.
 

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