7.3 turbo engine debate

[metalminded]

I think their point is not that you are not qualified, but that you are not adding any actual data. Like you could just as well be a holiday inn express patron as far as anyone knows.

to the OP, If you have a good running engine unless you see something that needs attention like a leak i would just run it as is. 230k isn't much for a maintained 7.3

 

[chillman88]

I think their point is not that you are not qualified, but that you are not adding any actual data. Like you could just as well be a holiday inn express patron as far as anyone knows.

Precisely my point.

I guess an accumulated total of over 12 million hours of dynamometer Engine Development time under my watch doesn’t count fo much.

Plus supplier work and field test.

What’s your credentials? How many hours have you spent with FelPro or Dana Victor in your office developing head gaskets?

Or did you stay at a Holiday Inn last night?

Come now let's not be foolish. I'm not saying you're WRONG, I'm merely stating that at present you are an unvalidated data set.

If you are indeed who you are IMPLYING you are, then you would be a very welcome and valued member of the community.

If you are indeed who you imply you are, a high level engineer with a long standing career in the industry, then let me put this in more relatable terms.

If a new engineer came up to you and said "this project you have 25,000 hours of flawless test data on has an inherent flaw" what would you do? Would you scrap the whole project because he SAID there's an issue? No, you would say "Show me what data you have collected so that I can verify it".

Nothing wrong with that at all.

How then would you react if he said "Oh no, I've done enough research that my data doesn't need to be questioned"?

I would imagine at that point you would simply laugh and carry on as you were before.

I'm simply saying, please validate your claims as they contradict years of existing data. Which I don't feel should be very difficult for someone with "over 12 million hours of dynamometer Engine Development time".

Being defensive and vague is simply unproductive and unprofessional.

 

[Old Goat]

HMMM... lets see, there is 8760 hours in one year.

Lets say some one is 70 yrs old, so 8760 X 70 = 613200
12,000,000 hrs is pretty dang old.


Goat

 

[Finn]

Figure up to twenty five dynamometers running 24/7 over a thirty five year time period, and it’s probably an underestimation.

I generally avoid participation in general interest forums like this because there’s so much barroom type information or opinion flying around, mostly generated by people that really have no experience other than twisting wrenches, or reading magazine articles written by general interest journalists and advertising drivel from vendors selling something.


It’s refreshing, however, when one encounters those people eager to learn, and have an open mind.

Carry on.

 

[Farmer Rock]

Figure up to twenty five dynamometers running 24/7 over a thirty five year time period, and it’s probably an underestimation.

I ain't trying to be a wise apple, but wouldn't that require you to be in 25 places at once never leaving that spot for anything in that 35 year span? Like eating,sleeping,etc.

I generally avoid participation in general interest forums like this because there’s so much barroom type information or opinion flying around, mostly generated by people that really have no experience other than twisting wrenches, or reading magazine articles written by general interest journalists and advertising drivel from vendors selling something.

Yup, that's just arrogant man.

It’s refreshing, however, when one encounters those people eager to learn, and have an open mind.

Carry on.

99% on this site, are here to learn or to help others learn. Bottom line, some hillbillies (like me), need some advice on how to fix or improve their trucks, and if there is a problem, it gets fixed one way or the other because the folks here are more than willing to help. If that ain't good enough for you, than why bother?


Rock

 

[IDIoit]

not to throw you off the path you want to travel...
i know the family that this engine came from.
it used to be his fathers truck, and the truck ran very well every time i saw it.

it was only in the past 8-9 months than the truck ran on a daily basis, when Cody bought it from his pops.

both previous owners of this engine were meticulous about things.

personally, i would not hesitate to slap it in and run it.

one thing i can tell you is that the IP could use a reman.
before you bought the engine the only issue was the IP leaked at the top of the housing.
i gave him one off my core IP, and it fixed the issue.

 

[Laine D]

not to throw you off the path you want to travel...
i know the family that this engine came from.
it used to be his fathers truck, and the truck ran very well every time i saw it.

it was only in the past 8-9 months than the truck ran on a daily basis, when Cody bought it from his pops.

both previous owners of this engine were meticulous about things.

personally, i would not hesitate to slap it in and run it.

one thing i can tell you is that the IP could use a reman.
before you bought the engine the only issue was the IP leaked at the top of the housing.
i gave him one off my core IP, and it fixed the issue.

Yup I was gonna text you about it but figured you were busy as hell . It’s in extremely good shape.

 

[Diesel D]

WOW!!!!..........12 million hrs equates to 1369 years...should we call you Methuselah?....

 

[Brody]

WOW!!!!..........12 million hrs equates to 1369 years...should we call you Methuselah?....

I was just going to say that lol

 

[Cubey]

I have a 93 7.3 factory turbo. Have put 75 k on it never have had a headgsaket problem. IMO unless you are trying for a lot of boost and power , stock is fine. If one was pulling heads checking bearing and all I would think about reringing if cyls are good,

My 85 RV has the albeit not so great/powerful ATS 085 turbo and head gaskets seem fine with head bolts. Seen the manifold pressure gauge up at 10 before on a steep hill.

 

[raydav]

Some considerations regarding replacing cap screws with studs. We only have a torque spec for cap screws.

What we are trying to achieve is clamping force. That is a linear force, which is difficult to measure directly. So, when the engine is released by engineering, it comes with rotational force spec; torque. So if you reinstall to the specified torque, you will achieve the same clamping force as the original assembly.

However, the block is threaded for a course thread cap screw. Studs have a fine thread nut. A fine thread has a more shallow ramp, so a foot-pound of rotational force on a stud nut, will produce more clamping force than a foot-pound on a cap screw. So tightening a stud nut to the original cap screw spec will produce greater clamping force and/or possible excessive stud stretch.

Good or bad? I have not found an ARP discussion on this.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Some considerations regarding replacing cap screws with studs. We only have a torque spec for cap screws.

What we are trying to achieve is clamping force. That is a linear force, which is difficult to measure directly. So, when the engine is released by engineering, it comes with rotational force spec; torque. So if you reinstall to the specified torque, you will achieve the same clamping force as the original assembly.

However, the block is threaded for a course thread cap screw. Studs have a fine thread nut. A fine thread has a more shallow ramp, so a foot-pound of rotational force on a stud nut, will produce more clamping force than a foot-pound on a cap screw. So tightening a stud nut to the original cap screw spec will produce greater clamping force and/or possible excessive stud stretch.

Good or bad? I have not found an ARP discussion on this.

Studs also use synthetic lube and have much less surface contact in the threads which allow more of the torque to translate to clamping force rather that lost to friction.

ARP doesn't have to discuss it...they own the market.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

ARP doesn't have to discuss it...they own the market.

I bought the studs in my 7.3 from Justin. the included instructions said to torque the nuts to the factory specs for the head bolts.

 

[IDIoit]

just dropping this on yall since youre on the subject

 

[IDIoit]

on another note, i followed the ARP directions for my lower studs.
and cracked a block.

now i thread in all the way by hand, back out 3/4 of a turn, with loctite and let sit for a few days before finalizing.