7.3 idi Wont run after installing electric pump

[Jbone36]

Thanks for the replies.. actually got it to run with the pump. Leak was visible but i pulled plug off of heater element on top of fuel water separator and filled the connection with 2 part epoxy. Air intrusion gone on tank side but still have air from clear line i installed from the injector pump to the injector return. After sitting about 30 mins bleeds air in...im currently hunting for a one way check valve for the IP to see if i can get it to stay solid.. would this work inline https://classicdieseldesigns.com/products/billet-3-8-check-valve

 

[Selahdoor]

Yes. Perfect!

 

[fjkontur]

selahdoor did u get my message? pls e mail me or call 5417201572 umatilla oregon

 

[Cubey]

Having already spent the money and not wanting to spend more to get a Walbro/Holley I will make changes to my mounting location (closer to the fuel selector valve on the frame) and push the fuel through more line than I am pulling from. I will also be installing a Racor style water separator in that location to reduce water from reaching the engine filter.

My Holley pump and Racor W/S setup on my RV. The original W/S (missing) was mounted in that same spot. The new FSV has the connections backwards, hence why it's upside down. The lifetime warranty on it says to put filters before it or it's null and void.

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[1mouse3]

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Im not here to beat the facet horse nor intend to use one. I reached across the aisle and use the gm idi pump, this is the spare nos carter one sitting and have a airtex on the truck. What I have found that works to get it operational without air gose like such. Start by hanging the inlet hose lower than the tank and blow in the filler cap if not flowing fuel, thiis primes the pump. Now power the pump and push a pokey thing into the bleader till fuel flows without bubbling, this gets air out the filtter. Past that it just works till you run out of fuel and need to repeat the procedure.

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[Selahdoor]

My Holley pump and Racor W/S setup on my RV. The original W/S (missing) was mounted in that same spot. The new FSV has the connections backwards, hence why it's upside down. The lifetime warranty on it says to put filters before it or it's null and void.

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Gotta say, @Cubey, I've always liked that setup of yours. You did good!

 

[Selahdoor]

selahdoor did u get my message? pls e mail me or call 5417201572 umatilla oregon

Yes I did.

As I said the first time, I'm afraid that I can't help you.

I don't have a timing meter. I'd have to learn how to use it if I did.

I don't know anything about the "drip method" you mentioned.

My own truck could be wildly out of time for all I know. I just adjusted the IP until I got the least amount of smoke on startup. No smoke on the road. And the best performance. As in , no lag, not sluggish, etc. Not looking for a racer. Just reliability

 

[fjkontur]

selahdoor, thanks for replying just trying to find one to buy or rent. ok here is how we used to time these old girls. have fuel in the pumpby just turning it over and disconnect return line on #1 to make sure u have fuel to it. now set your crank to top dead center, now disconnect #1 press line to #1 injector.NOW figure out where 8 deg before top center is on ur timing pulley and mske a mark there. i use a welding soap stone for this because i cn see WHITE real well(i need all the visual i can get since i am 86yrs young)now now here is the tricky part..SLOWLY SLOWLY retard the timing pulley to about 15 degrees. NOW advance the crank shaft which moves the timing pulley towards the 8 DEGREE mark.at that INSTANCE you will see a TINY DROP of fuel coming out of number cylinder on the IP pump this is damn close to right on 8 deg btdc used this method for many yrs on the farm. if i had the right equip i could see just how close i am, remember the factory specs say PLUS OR MINUS 2 DEGREES SO TAKE THAT with a grain of salt. so thats it good luck.

 

[Clb]

Dayum
now someone put this to a test against a meter.
royalties to you sir should be paid if this works!

 

[TNBrett]

I’m not trying to shoot holes in any theory, but…. The timing spec (for the 7.3 anyway) is given at 2000rpm. If you’re dead on at 2000, it’s off quite a bit at idle. This method seems like it fails to account for that. We know for the most part that these engines can seem like they run ok with the timing pretty far off, but when it’s right you can really tell a difference. I think we will find this method is at best, about as good as using the static timing marks. I look forward to seeing the results.