7.3 IDI Turbo E-Fuel Pump

[Ray Packer]

Just finished installing a Facet electric fuel pump using the instructional post from this forum. It was a follow up to installation of a fuel return kit, all to cure hard starting caused by alleged air intrusion. Should the fuel pump bowl be full? I noticed that when running it is ~ 2/3 full. Bled fuel filter using schrader valve until got solid stream. Still takes three cold start cranking periods to get her going, w/white smoke. Once started and cleared out, she runs great and when warm starts quickly. If I plug the block heater for an hour or so(regardless of outside temps) she starts quickly. All new GP,s (correct ones) installed in June. 168K on odometer. First diesel for me, so it's a learning experience....

 

[Clb]

EDIT Some air In filter bowl is normal,EDIT
Are you sure the return caps are on solid and you did not nick an oring?
EDIT returns can suck air AND be bone dry! EDIT
There are stickies and a tech section ya should read thru.

 

[Ray Packer]

Some air is normal in the fuel/return system, or in the electric fuel pump bowl? No fuel leaking from any of the return line caps or hoses. I think tomorrow I'll check that the GP's and controller are working properly. I did the GP controller bypass mod w/button in dash and light comes on in dash & amp gage deflects, but that doesn't mean all's well. Thanks for reply....

 

[sjwelds]

Does sound like GP's....

Check the two yellow wires that feed the main power to the GP controller. There's a connector on them that likes to give trouble.

 

[riphip]

No air in system is normal. Should be fuel only in system. No leaks.

 

[Clb]

O.P.
Edited my post.

 

[icanfixall]

If plugging in the engine makes it start right away my feelings are your glow plugs are NOT working.Why they are not is the question. Might start looking at the main engine wire harness plug to be melted where the two yellow wire are located in the end. Those two wires are connected at both ends by a single lug terminal. One is located at the fender solenoid and the other end is at the controller..

 

[Ray Packer]

So after three or four long cranking sessions, each with a 10 sec. push on the manual glow plug button, nothing but white smoke and one "chug". Outside temperature was ~65° and block heater not plugged in. I experimented by crossing the large lugs on the GP controller solenoid for ~10 sec., jumped in the cab, turned the key and voila! She fired up immediately. I can hear the solenoid click when the key is on and I push my manual GP button. Question is, can a GP controller solenoid cycle but still not complete the GP circuit internally?

 

[snicklas]

So after three or four long cranking sessions, each with a 10 sec. push on the manual glow plug button, nothing but white smoke and one "chug". Outside temperature was ~65° and block heater not plugged in. I experimented by crossing the large lugs on the GP controller solenoid for ~10 sec., jumped in the cab, turned the key and voila! She fired up immediately. I can hear the solenoid click when the key is on and I push my manual GP button. Question is, can a GP controller solenoid cycle but still not complete the GP circuit internally?

Yes, the contactor inside may not be connecting the two large lugs. If shorting the two big lugs makes the plugs work, then I would say this is what’s happening. You can buy an Echlin GPR109 from NAPA and replace just the relay. This the relay for the solid state 7.3 controller.

 

[Ray Packer]

Bought/installed new GP relay yesterday. This morning 34°F, no block heater used, ignition switch on, 10 seconds on manual GP button, short crank over and she kicked once. Short pause then 8 more seconds on the manual button and short crank...... success!!! Purring like a big kitty ! Thanks for everybody's input. Stop by for a sometime.

 

[icanfixall]

Glad to read you found and fixed the problem.This really is a fabulous site...