7.3 IdI honing cylinders

[Va_Mike]

Okay so after further inspection of the cylinder walls... the crosshatch is non existent. So I ordered the ball hone and rings and lower rod bearings. What else do I need and are the connecting rod bolts reusable?

 

[Va_Mike]

After further investigation i see that the cap is help to the rod with a nut not a bolt . so I assume the nut is safe to reuse provided nothing is wrong with it?

 

[Randy Bush]

It is safe and standard to just reuse what you have, when honing the cylinders you want to clean them un tell nothing shows on your cleaning towel. Also when putting back together I prefer to use a assembly lube and not a grease on the bearing.

 

[Va_Mike]

You install the bearing dry correct? and then use the assembly lube on the bearing surface right?

 

[flareside_thun]

Correct. You want the assembly lube between the bearing face and crank surface.

 

[Va_Mike]

if I go back with standard rings do they need to be gaped or will they be set properly already?

 

[cozinsky]

Rings should be gapped correctly out of the package but its always best to check a few just to make sure the ends aren't butting together. Place one at the top of the cylinder, then using an inverted piston slide it down the bore and measure the end gap with a feeler gauge.
I like to use hot soapy water to scrub the cylinder walls after honing, followed by a rag soaked in ATF. Never use solvent based cleaners, they can remain in the cylinder and wash out the oil on startup.

 

[flareside_thun]

If you're that far into it, get the second seal rings for it.

 

[Va_Mike]

I have never done the soapy water. I have washed the cylinders down with parts cleaner and then do a wipe in each cylinder with engine oil before installing the pistons.

 

[Va_Mike]

If you're that far into it, get the second seal rings for it.

What are the second seal rings?

 

[steve phillips]

hot soapy water ONLY cleans grit out of cylinder walls. oil for ring lubrication stays in hone marks in cyl. walls. idis have a large 2nd ring gap, supposedly to help with 1st ring seal. total seal rings eliminate this. off the top of my head it is .070. you will also need to check ring groove side clearance too. idis bottom end is pretty much bulletproof to 400 hp. just standard assembly techniques. I use piston in the bottom of cylinder ie: unworn part to check gaps of rings.

 

[flareside_thun]

https://idiperformance.com/shop/engine-internals/rd-ring-pack/

 

[steve phillips]

I don't know what type honing pattern is required for total seal rings. not to go down a rabbit hole on this, but crosshatch pattern is different for cast iron and moly rings, which could complicate op build. when I build another idi I am going to use total seal rings after I talk to their tech guys. looked on their website , but couldn t determine a lot about ring material.

 

[Va_Mike]

I may go down the total sealing ring kit on the next engine. This is just a temp setup. I am rebuilding the engine I am pulling from the truck and that one will probably get a turbo and all the goodies. I just want this one to run for a year or two.

 

[mexicanjoe]

I use Lubriplate assembly lube on all my engines. Another little trick to use is simple: upon installing the engine back in the truck, pour as much boiling water in to the radiator as you can to fill it up....for 2 reasons= it allows you to reach operating temperature quicker. and then you can flush the water out and install antifreeze for daily use. I usually flush my system 2-3 times....