6.9L Build, what to do?

[67-7THREE]

i recently picked up a 86 6.9 motor, and doing a few upgrades to it and wondering if i should do anything else?

so far im doing:

ARP studs
new headgaskets
pretty much all gaskets to freshen it up
7.3L rockers
7.3L bullet glow plugs
BB code injectors
pump will be turned up
ATS 088 kit


is a typ4 cam worth it?

what are some boost numbers that i can expect? ive head of 7-8 with this turbo kit, whats needed to run 10 lbs?

 

[rembrant88]

I am a big fan of the type4 cam. I say go with it if a cam swap doesn't bother you.

 

[icanfixall]

The typ4 cam is worth twice the low cost of it. Try to buy a new cam from Ford or international. Your in them for around $800.00. And all you get is what you had. Upgrade and you will not be unhappy..

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

A few things I have learned:

Check the block deck real close, it tends to erode over all these years.

If you deck it (I would) check protrusion. If you need to cut the pistons check with those on here that know the best spec for turbo duty.

Be sure you head rebuilder knows these heads. Seems simple enough after all these years but most don't.

If intake seats (doesn't have from factory) seem necessary RED FLAG. Cutting the heads for seats can cut into the water jacket. Ask me how I know.

If you cut the deck and the heads be thinking about intake manifold fit up.

Check injector seating areas in the heads, no one does until heads are on usually!

I find it very much worth a couple of hours to blend the valve bowls (minor port work) I think this is why the 90 F250 my wife used to drive would spank the new (at the time) 7.3 PSD's. Sure pissed off guys with new trucks, at least until chips and injectors got more common then the "new" PSD could catch it.

The fuel injection pump is the heart of the whole deal. Consider sending it to Mel or at the least someone with a good reputation.

Lastly, be sure you really have an 86 block. There were weaker earlier blocks, there is a serial # split on that, who knows if it might have been swapped before.

I'll probably remember 50 more hard way lessons I've learned since 86 when the first IDI came into my life!

 

[icanfixall]

If the block gets decked then you should line bore the main bearing webs too. Look at the main bearings and if you see wear on one edge more than the other. Well that tells you that web is machined off center so the bearing sits crooked in the web causeing the wear on one side. Thats making paracitic drag and drops hp and mileage. When the main bearing are line bored or line honed depending on how much needs to be cut the crank will spin like its of roller bearings when its torqued in place. The line boreing process is to cut 2 thousands off the main caps. Then torque them to the block. then a long bore bar is sent thru all the bearing webs at the same time and the honing or cutting is done. After a few minutes this work is stopped and the block is allowed to cool down. A measurement is taken. Sometimes the cutting bar is removed and sent in from the other end of the block to just to make sure the cleanup cuts are the same from both directions. Utube has some viedos of this process.