6.9 to early 7.3 swap

Ruger_556

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Pull the 6.9... Drop the 7.3 in and you're done! They're almost identical ;Sweet Someone might know of a slight difference somewhere but I can't think of any :dunno
 

fordf350man

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wondering how i the 6.9 is superior to the 7.3? not being a smart ass just would like to know
 

icanfixall

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The 6.9 has a few advantages over the 7.3. First of they wont cavitate because of thin cylinders. I have never heard of them needing SCA in the radiater either. They can be bored out with no problems. The differances in cubic displacement is not going to make more or less hp or torque either. Now for the problems. The have too small of head bolts in stock form. thats why we always recommend a set of ARP head studs to hold the heads on the block. They can't run the larger wrist pin turbo rods unless you have a set of custom pistons made. The early blocks would crack around the block heater if you used it but.. Mel has an original 6.9 early block and it has not cracked yet nor hopefully will it ever. He bought it new in 83 and is the original owner of it. Other than that most every internal part is the same between the 6.9 and 7.3 engines. We even can run 7.3 heads on the 6.9 and if you want to drill out the head bolt holes on a 6.9 you can run them too on a 7.3. Both blocks are drilled and tapped the same too so all the outside parts swap over the same. International only made one intake for these engines too. In both engine sizes there are a few external parts that are differant in the truck or van applications but thats never an issue.
 

Kevin 007

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Seems as there are less valve guide failure issues with the 6.9. Probably due to the valve seals allowing more oil to pass, lubricating the guides. Which is my biggest reason to like the 6.9. Had too many guide issues with 7.3's
 

charles h

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ok i will spend the money on the 6.9 that i have cause it is running on 3 cylinders for some reason it is in the shop and scheduled for a compression test this week
 

92F350CC

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Also...I'm pretty sure that the 7.3 head has a coolant channel that is blocked off for whatever reason, so they are more likely to overheat.

Are the non-turbo rods even an issue? It's not like we read daily reports of these engines throwing rods or anything like that. Besides, unless he rebuilt his new engine, the 7.3 isn't new enough to have those rods and pistons.
 

icanfixall

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Rod differances are this. All rods have the same length and big end bearing size. The wrist pin size for the non turbo rods is 28mm and 33mm for the turbo rods. I ran my non turbo 89 engine for many years boosting to 13 lbs hauling heavy. When I opened that engine I found no problems from the turbo. From all my investigation what I have found is the non turbo and the turbo pistons are approx 560 yo 580 thousands thick in the middle of the piston dome. So its thicker as you move to the ring areas. There was a time when we could buy 6.9 turbo pistons but not any more. They are a custom deal now. A turbo rod wil fit any 6.9 or 7.3 engine too. Remember most every internal part of these engines are the same and swap back and forth easy too. For a properly running engine if a 6.9 crank is installed in a 7.3 you should have a balance shot run on all the spinning parts. It just makes for a nicer running engine. I balanced my engine much more than it needed but when its running at idle you hear it but can't feel it. Now thats a really funny feeling.
 

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