6.9 block work

jaluhn83

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Pull the freeze plugs. Sure you can hot tank it with them in, but it will work much better with them out, plus if the block has corrosion and junk there's a decent chance the freeze plugs are also rotting.

Freeze plugs aren't that hard. Yes, you are supposed to set them with a special tool, but it's not that hard to find one, make one or do without. Yes, it's a risk and there have been problems with poorly installed plugs before, but there's also tons of blocks out there that had plugs put in without the special tool and made it just fine.
 

Knuckledragger

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It is a lot of (pointless) effort to get cup plugs to fit. If you are going that far, you may as well put screw in plugs in.

If you are careful installing the disc plugs, they will last as long as the engine.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I didn't enjoy installing my screw in plugs. I though I'd do the cup style plugs next time. It looks easier to me after watching Justin's You Tube video on doing it.
 

Frstdiesel

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Hey guys, there are so many of you on here with lots of experience with these 6.9s I've got a few more pics to post.
I found on the standard crank, corrosion spots on 2 rod journals.
The spots are between the bearing surfaces. They are about 3/4" long and about 3/16" wide. Opinions sought.
 

Hydro-idi

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I would bring the crankshaft into a machine shop and have them take a look see. They might be able to turn it and remove those problematic areas on the crank.
 

Frstdiesel

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Ok thanks.
Now take a gander at the main bearings.
Number 1 is the first pic. #2 second, etc.
Since #1 appears to have more wear than the rest, does this warrant an align hone?
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IDIBRONCO

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I have to second (or third) these three opinions. Usually, if you can run your finger across the journal from front to back and not catch your fingernail on a blemish, you'll be ok. The big one looks kind of deep.
 

CDX825

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Our engines can't be the only ones to use the disc style freeze plugs? Why is it so foreign to most machine shops about their install?
 

Frstdiesel

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Ok guys, what's the trick to removing press-in oil squirters?
Then, what's the preferred method to reinstall them?
I need to have my block tanked and honed.
I've read an old post where a member removed them and reinstalled them with locktite.
Thanks
 

IDIBRONCO

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Our machine shop used to do this for us so I really don't know. I do know that there's a special tool to install them. Is it absolutely needed? I don't know that either.
 

Knuckledragger

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I made a tool from a vise grip pliers to remove them. Reinstalled with loctite in 2010, still doing fine. There used to be a target (aiming) template you could buy, but it is obsolete. The best thing to do is take picture of the cooling jets before removing them to get the relative attitude. I made an install tool too and may still have both tools around if you want to use them.
 

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