6.9,7.3 and 7.3 turbo fuel return lines?????s

[Dregs Garage]

I have been reading a lot of threads about how many of you guys like to route there fuel return lines different ways then factory... what is your way?

does it hurt to deadhead one injection like the 6.9 and 7.3t have?

I see the 6.9 have 1/4”(6mm) line with centered barbs off the caps and the 7.3s have 5/16”(8mm) line with offset barbs is there a benefit to the 7.3 systems?

do you like the 6.9 one barb over the 7.3 multi barbs other than the size difference?

Does it help to eliminate the return off the filter housing on the 7.3?

what is all your experiences and options with R&Ds billet fuel rails?

any and all input is welcome (jokes included) and diagrams!

have a great weekend!

 

[Philip1]

I can't say much for the differences between the 6.9 and 7.3 caps, with the routing I am going from the passenger bank of injectors to the ip to the driver bank then back to the tanks on the back of the driver bank. I am using the r&d rails, they are difficult to install without cutting an oring but once installed they are hands down better. With the bypass between the filter head and return lines, it is recommended to block that off because it tends to lead to many air intrusion issues draining the fuel supply side.

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[IDIBRONCO]

The 6.9s use a 3/16' return line while the 7.3s use a 1/4". It really makes no difference which style I use. I think most places only sell the 7.3 style any more, but I could be wrong about that.

 

[Dregs Garage]

I can't say much for the differences between the 6.9 and 7.3 caps, with the routing I am going from the passenger bank of injectors to the ip to the driver bank then back to the tanks on the back of the driver bank. I am using the r&d rails, they are difficult to install without cutting an oring but once installed they are hands down better. With the bypass between the filter head and return lines, it is recommended to block that off because it tends to lead to many air intrusion issues draining the fuel supply side.

You must be registered for see images attach

Thank you, if you didn’t have the fuel rails..Would you run a billet fuel cap or Brass cap if someone made them available?

 

[Dregs Garage]

The 6.9s use a 3/16' return line while the 7.3s use a 1/4". It really makes no difference which style I use. I think most places only sell the 7.3 style any more, but I could be wrong about that.

I have some old line off my 7.3 that’s super thin and cracked on every end that was put on a cap. I cut in clean in the middle and it measures roughly .305...
I put some of my Gates hose “American made” 1/4” hose(4LOC) on one of the 7.3 caps and it was super tight. Fit nicely on the 6.9 cap. The 5/16” fit better over the 7.3 cap. Looking at these caps and barbs their super cheap, thin and out of round.

would you be interested in one piece billet aluminum or brass caps?

If so, which way would you run them?

 

[Cubey]

I guess I have been lucky. The caps on both of my 6.9s were fine. I did replace them on my F250 just in case. I ended up reusing the F250's on the RV since they didn't look as crappy cosmetically. Neither have leaked. It's been over 3.5 years on the F250 and over 1.5 on the RV. The RV had the original O-rings and all most likely. I kept the RV's original caps as emergency backups like I did the F250s.

 

[Philip1]

Thank you, if you didn’t have the fuel rails..Would you run a billet fuel cap or Brass cap if someone made them available?

If i didn't have the rails I would look into a metal cap over the plastic ones if someone made them for a reasonable price.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

would you be interested in one piece billet aluminum or brass caps?

If so, which way would you run them?

Maybe. It would mostly depend on the price. Although they would look good on top of a built engine. By the second part, I'm guessing if I would prefer aluminum or brass. Aluminum would be my first choice.

 

[03wr250f]

Thank you, if you didn’t have the fuel rails..Would you run a billet fuel cap or Brass cap if someone made them available?

Are you thinking of making some? If so how much for a set?

 

[Dregs Garage]

Are you thinking of making some? If so how much for a set?

Yes, I have been thinking on this whole project for a few years, seen two different sets...
one set is like the 6.9 style where the barbs are straight across(180) from each other and 90 degrees from each other in
brass with the barbs silver soldered in.

the other set is like the 7.3 style with the barbs offset to the side..made out of aluminum this set would be super hard to make and experience.

the brass with soldered barbs is the way I’m thinking of going. Make only the 180 and 90 barb style caps.

What do you think?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Make only the 180 and 90 barb style caps.

What about the dead end style? The ones with only one barb.

 

[Dregs Garage]

What about the dead end style? The ones with only one barb.

Yes I could make the one barb cap and the Tee cap as well.
Both are mainly for the 7.3idi N/A

That’s one reason why I was asking which way is the perfect way to run the return system, seems like getting rid of the filter head return is a common modification and running under the turbo is another if you don’t want a dead end. Switch can eliminate the tee fitting.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

running under the turbo is another if you don’t want a dead end

This is what I've mostly seen from installing an aftermarket turbo kit. The return line under the turbo still gets pretty crispy even with insulation over it. I plan to stay away from doing it myself.

 

[Dregs Garage]

Once I get pricing on the bar stock and time it takes to make a set, I hope to make about 25 sets for the first run... if all goes to plan!

trying to do all American made...
Brass, hose and clamps! O-rings will be China molded with USA Viton if I can’t get some from Mexico.

 

[Clb]

@IDIoit had a set of the tin caps once, also runnin the r&d rails perhaps he will chime in...

To answer your query,
For the bling factor and craftsmanship, I like the idea (if cost works) labor is gunna be a killer.