6.9,7.3 and 7.3 turbo fuel return lines?????s

How many like the 7.3 caps over the 6.9 caps

  • 7.3 side ports

  • 6.9 center ports

  • I would like 6.9 centered parts with bigger barbs


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Selahdoor

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Hoseclamps of this style are nice too. They bite less than the normal ones and don't cut in much. The spring style is fool proof but can sometimes be a pain if you don't grab them just right. I seem to send them across the shop... but I redid my entire vacuum system on my Subaru and had no issues.

I'd vote band clip or this style hose clamp. Whatever you can find US made?

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That's the clamps I would run.
 

Selahdoor

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oregon96psd

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If you want it to actually last and not leak at the cap, change the dimensions so that the injection line just barley pushes it down tight against the top of the injector. You need to remove the side to side wiggle from the cap just like any other hydraulic connection. O-ring connections last tens of thousands of hours on heavy equipment because they’re bolted together tight, not flopping around like a push on cap. Do that with a good quality hose and it will outlive the truck.
 

bilbo

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If you want it to actually last and not leak at the cap, change the dimensions so that the injection line just barley pushes it down tight against the top of the injector. You need to remove the side to side wiggle from the cap just like any other hydraulic connection. O-ring connections last tens of thousands of hours on heavy equipment because they’re bolted together tight, not flopping around like a push on cap. Do that with a good quality hose and it will outlive the truck.
I wonder if the tolerance across engines on the dimension between the nut and where the cap would sit would screw that up. But, maybe if a wavy washer or something was between the injector line nut and the cap, then small differences in dimension there wouldn't matter as much and the cap would be held better.
 

Dane Rickford

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I have copper washers that go on top of the caps that the injection line presses down on. I have had no issues with my return line system other then an occasional weepy rubber line
 

typ4

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So many "maybes" on here. There are 2 plastic cap makers that I know of that have good ones. Fortunately my supplier uses them.
There are lots of bad ones out there.

I havent had any caps with flash.
Not that many years ago casting flash was a huge issue.
Not so much anymore.

Viton orings are the biggest problem solver, harder orings will distort the caps over time, the oring needs to take up the flex, not the cap.

If you guys are dead set against China orings and other small items here are the choices.
Dont read the fine print, you wont like the facts, dont ***** about the price IF we can even supply USA parts, they are expensive. And keep in mind that even though we dont like it , its here, it sucks but not much we can do about it.

MAking a metal cap higher is not a good idea, inj line tolerance and inj brand difference is minimal but could pose a problem.

I recommend an old or new oring on top of the cap if they "ride up", not a problem if the hose is correct length and there is no "back pressure " on the system.

Ive sold hundreds of Install kits and only had one with a major issue and it was because the person used screw clamps.
Best way to distort the plastic hose nipple ever.
Oh,,Early hose is 5mm id.
Late hose is 7mm id.


And for the folks that complain about my kit price and buy the cheap one from pensacola or other sources. 3 of theirs equals one of mine that actually does perform as advertised.
 
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gandalf

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Best way to distort the plastic hose nipple ever.
Oh,,Early hose is 5mm id.
Late hose is 7mm id.


And for the folks that complain about my kit price and buy the cheap one from pensacola or other sources. 3 of theirs equals one of mine that actually does perform as advertised.

One comment and one request/suggestion.

Could you equate the early and the late hose with some other identifiable feature? Maybe model year, engine, or something even us lesser wanna-be fiddlers can understand.

I think you're being generous when you say 3 Pensacola kits equal one of your's. I would have given Pensacola a higher number, maybe 4 or 5. Back to the old adage, people, "Do it right, do it only once."
 

IDIBRONCO

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The 6.9s use a 3/16' return line while the 7.3s use a 1/4". It really makes no difference which style I use. I think most places only sell the 7.3 style any more, but I could be wrong about that.
I believe that I made a mistake here. I think the early 7.3 may have also used the 3/16" return lines for a few years. Even if it's wrong, most people seem to call the 3/16" lines the 6.9 style and the 1/4" lines the 7.3 style. If I'm wrong about this, I hope someone will correct me.
 

IDIBRONCO

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And for the folks that complain about my kit price and buy the cheap one from pensacola or other sources. 3 of theirs equals one of mine that actually does perform as advertised.

I think you're being generous when you say 3 Pensacola kits equal one of your's. I would have given Pensacola a higher number, maybe 4 or 5. Back to the old adage, people, "Do it right, do it only once."
Disclaimer: I may have gotten the one in 30 or so that actually worked, but I did run a kit from Pensacola. Somehow, I accidentally broke a return cap while changing glow plugs one time. I bought a cheap kit since I was planning to pull the engine to do some PM on it a few months later. It didn't give me any trouble, but I only ran it for about 6 months. It may not have lasted for another 6 without giving me some issues. I did use a kit from Mel when I put it back together.
 

typ4

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So the "by the book" listing for insstall kit is
Early--83 to 90 Always a steel line from pump top to return block at rear of head. Somtimes cut off at pump
Late---90 to 94
Factory turbo is turbo. I make up this kit with factory tees till I run out
BUT, these trucks are old enough that they can have any kit on them, thats why I always have folks ask or send a pic of what they have
 
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