6.0 headgaskets, oil cooler, stc, ARP studs w/cab on

Discussion in '6.0L Powerstroke Diesels' started by Crawler, Nov 7, 2018 at 4:38 AM.

  1. Crawler

    Crawler Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    I’ll work on some more detail as time allows. Feel free to ask any questions.

    My intent of this thread is to show that some of us do replace headgaskets without removing the cab or doing any unnecessary removing of extra parts.

    This is my usual process for 6.0 head work.

    ~Wes S.~
     
  2. Crawler

    Crawler Supporting Member Supporting Member

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  3. Crawler

    Crawler Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Batteries are disconnected. The air box, degas bottle, inter cooler piping, upper radiator shroud, and alternator are removed. The bolts securing the rear shroud are removed to allow movement. The fan and rear shroud are left in unless I’m doing a water pump replacement.

    Engine wiring harness and injector harness are partially disconnected to open up the top of the engine. Eventually they are laid in front of the engine. I do not unhook the sensors on the block or front cover.

    The FICM and glow plug module along with their associated brackets are removed.

    Valve covers are removed.

    Fuel lines disconnected at the housing.

    Oil and fuel filter housings are removed. The oil filter base and tower remain. For now.

    Turbocharger is disconnected and removed. Pedestal must be removed on early 6.0 trucks.

    Intake manifold and eve cooler are removed.

    Early 6.0-disconnect high pressure stc fittings under valve covers. Remove stand pipes.
    Late 6.0-remove stand pipes and dummy plugs.

    Remove high pressure oil rails/manifolds.

    Loosen drivers side motor mount from frame.

    Remove coolant plug on drivers side of block.

    Remove manifold to up pipe hardware.

    Remove up pipe.

    Place a jack with a block of wood under the truck. This will be positioned wherever you desire and are comfortable with to lift the drivers side of the engine. Now lift the engine as high as you can without contacting the evaporator box located on the pasenger side.

    Using the ford/otc fuel injector harness tool (or a 19mm deep socket), press each injector wiring plug from the valley into the rocker box.

    Loosen but do not remove all 10mm headed bolts in and on the drivers side head.

    Break loose all headbolts on drivers side.

    Now remove all 10mm headed bolts that were previously loosened.

    Completely remove all headbolts from drivers side except the rearmost bottom bolt. It will not physically come out due to contacting the firewall. Just make sure it is free of the block and the gasket. It should slide up and down freely in the head. Place a zip tie around the shank of the bolt and tighten the zip tie to keep the bolt from resting in the gasket/block.

    You can now remove the rockers, pushrods, and rocker to valve bridges. I lay them out in the order they are removed to facilitate placing them back in the same locations they came from. Some people believe they have worn into each other and should not be mixed. I do not entirely buy into that. However, I prefer to do things the best possible way.

    Secure a chain to the head by looping the chain through the exhaust manifold and using a few of the intake manifold bolt holes (with your own hardware, not the trucks bolts).

    With a picker lift the head from the engine bay and secure the head.

    You’ll notice that I did not remove the injectors or the glow plugs. They protrude from the deck of the head. So, do not sit the head on a flat surface. Two blocks of wood on the floor or your workbench work perfectly. As long as you leave a gap between the blocks, you will have a safe place for your injectors and glow plugs to protrude.

    Now completely remove the drivers side motor mount from the truck. There will be four 13mm bolts securing it to the block.

    Lower your jack and allow the engine to lay over to the drivers side.

    You now have adequate clearance on the passenger side.

    Repeat the bolt and valvetrain process on the passenger side.

    The three rearmost lower headbolts will be blocked in by the ac evaporator housing. These bolts will be secured using the zip tie method as well.

    Repeat the chaining and lifting process.

    As it’s now 4:30am and I need to grab a couple hours sleep before an 8am appointment; I will have to pick this up later.

    Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have. This does not cover every little thing. It is just an overview. However, at a later date, I will do my best to give a complete in-depth guide to walk you through. I’m sure along the way, I missed something important. I will edit as I can.

    Thank you,
    ~Wes S~
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2018 at 5:38 AM
  4. Crawler

    Crawler Supporting Member Supporting Member

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  5. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    None of those pics are working on my end.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
     
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  6. Crawler

    Crawler Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Hopefully that fixed it. Let me know.
     
  7. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    Nope, may just be on my end.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
     

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