1993 f250 7.3 IDI new tranny/hard shifts

InnovativeAV

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So when I got the truck reverse was shot. So I had the trans rebuilt completely with new converter. If I start out really slowly it shifts normal most of the time. If I give it normal gas or a normal start it kicks pretty hard shifting. The tach seems to be operating great, as with the speedo and all other gauges. Any Ideas what else this could be?
 

franklin2

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What tranny? The c6 or the E4OD. It should be a minor adjustment on either one related to the throttle position vacuum regulator on the c6 or whatever the E4OD uses to measure the throttle opening.
 

InnovativeAV

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So I finally got it into the transmission shop today and the FIPL was throwing a code we put a new one on. And at wide open throttle we only got 3.4 V. We adjusted the throttle screw in the back of the injection pump and we are able to get the 4.5 at wide open throttle. That issue I am having now seems as if I don't have much power at all and when I was on the highway moving 65 mph my RPMs would just over 2000. To me it seems like I am not shifting into overdrive does that make any sense? I didn't really pay attention before they adjusted the sensor but I know I wasn't screaming the engine like that on the highway I know my RPMs were probably 1400 RPM to 1500 RPM. But I never really paid attention so my question is is just over 2000 RPMs at 65 mph is that normal or does it seem kind of high? Would putting that new sensor in not allow the transmission to shift into overdrive?


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FoolhardyIDI

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Your most important setting is the idle reading. I have mine at 1.08 volts. That is where I found my best shift points and feel. Set your idle reading on the FIPL sensor to what feels best to you. Don't worry about the FIPL sensors WOT reading.

FIPL Setting 1.05 volts -4.5 max volts @ WOT

There are some people that have even set there FIPL sensor lower than the 1.05 volts to get the results they are looking for. Just never set it higher than 4.5 volts @ WOT.

If you have a volt meter and a paper clip you can set it yourself. Very easy to do. I can help walk you through it if you like.
 
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79jasper

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I "think" that rpm/speed is about right for the 3.55 gears.
What do you have?
To get 1400-1500 rpm at that speed, you'd almost need a separate overdrive box.

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FORDF250HDXLT

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it's easy to check which gear and lockup state your in.
if you unsure if your in OD or not.simply press the od cancel button.if nothing changes,then your in 3rd.if it downshifts,then you were in od.
if unsure of lockup,turn the hazards on.or while still on the throttle,tap the brake a little bit with your other foot.if nothing changes,then your converter wasn't locked.if the rpms go up a bit,then the converter was locked.

edit; the comment about not having much power on the hwy going 65 mph @ 2k rpm is very strange.be it the trans didn't shift into OD nor converter locked for example,say both things are frigged up.the power at those rpms should be pretty darn crisp.specifically if in 3rd.

at 1400 rpm im in od going 45 mph with the 3.55's.you have to remember these trucks only had performance gear ratio options of 3.55 and 4.10.there were no hwy ratio options of 3.08-3.30 available.
 
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icanfixall

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Some very good information in this thread about the tps. Personally I like the idle setting key on engine off at 1.2 volts. I really could care less what the wide open throttle setting is. We really can't adjust that. If your attempting to adjust that voltage you will be changing the idle setting. The idle setting is the important voltage setting because it programs the trans thru the computer to shift correctly for the throttle position. Say you have your foot all the way in the throttle. That sends a voltage signal to the trans that it needs to lock up hard and shift differently. Hope this explains what the tps does.
 

InnovativeAV

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Thanks for all the responses these are great I am learning quite a bit about my truck. Which is a 1993 F250 7.3 IDI E4OD. yeah my RPMs are probably correct I probably just didn't pay attention before. I am still getting hard shifts every once a while when the truck is cold it seems to shift a lot smoother. But I think there is a further internal problem. When I'm doing 65 on the highway and I step on it to the floor I hear the engine go up a little bit but I feel nothing in the truck. Next time I'm in the truck I will check to see if the converter is locking. A couple other things to mention I do have an 8'2" boss V plow on the front of it which is a pretty heavy plow. And I have 450 pounds of sandbags in the back of the bed. Although my work van which is a 97 GMC savanna 2500 with the 5.7 Vortec in it. I have had one ton of pellets for the pellet stove loaded in the van along with all my tool racks in there and that engine pulled up fine. My diesel is not a turbo but I still would've thought that it would've been a monster. I was doing 60 mph on the highway I started to go up with a slight uphill grade and I had it pinned to the floor and I lost about 10 mph. The transmission will kick down but it never seems as if it gains that much more power. Usually I have to be on a flat or going downhill to gain speed. This is my first diesel so I don't understand a lot of things and I don't exactly know what to expect but in my opinion the engine seems to run pretty good. I started it the other day in 18° weather was not plugged in, it smoked for a minute or two and then that went away. it seem to start fine. When I move the gas pedal it is very responsive. When I got the truck I did a thorough oil change on the truck I put the larger Motorcraft oil filter on the truck pre-charged it. We ended up putting a new radiator in the truck and we used the Napa coolant pre-charged SCA's. We also changed the thermostat at that time and we also pulled the two plugs on the block and completely drained everything from the engine and blew out the heater core. I also put a new air filter in there which seems to be still very clean. And the transmission was rebuilt by a tranny shop. The one thing I did not do is change the fuel filter and put some diesel clean in that. And seeing that I am in a colder climate I am also using the Motorcraft anti-gel in the fuel every fuel tank. Could a torque converter be slipping or a transmission just not shifting properly make this truck feel like a slug? I really appreciate all of the help from the members here maybe someday my experiences will help somebody else out


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FORDF250HDXLT

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without a turbo they can't pull the grades too quickly.diesels love air.they really belong turbocharged.....however with that said,if you floor it and it doesn't really do much lol then it's probably long overdue for a complete idi tune up.every 100k miles (ideally) you'll have the ip reman,install a fresh set of injectors and have the timing set.though the timing should be checked and set (ideally) at least every 30k or so.
most of these idi trucks are left to go,because not everyone knows to keep these parts fresh.they don't want to invest the $,and they just keep running worn out or not,but performance and economy suffer.it happens so slowly the owner may not notice it.
if your not going up a steep hill,then you should be able to floor it,the converter will unlock,the trans will downshift and you should feel a pull and the truck should gain speed.not as hard as a turbo truck of course,but she should downshift and go.if it's a steep hill,then she should downshift into 2nd and scream at the governor and pull hard.

freshly tuned up or not,the secret to driving an n/a idi truck is WOT pre -hill.with little hp,the momentum pre-hill makes a massive,massive difference.do not even think twice about worry about it over revving.you can let it talk all day long.
 
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InnovativeAV

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So I did a little experimentation this evening while driving it. I have a weird feeling that my overdrive might have something to do with this. When I turn off the overdrive and start off it still shifts hard but it seems to go a little bit better. But it only shifts into third gear and my question is should this shift into for gears then in overdrive or is it three years and an overdrive? When I have the overdrive off moving about 50 around 2000 RPMs and I push the gas pedal I can feel it kick and pull. Also running normal with the overdrive on moving about 4045 maybe 50 miles an hour I tap the break and the RPMs did not do anything which I think that means that the tour converter is not locking?


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trackspeeder

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So I did a little experimentation this evening while driving it. I have a weird feeling that my overdrive might have something to do with this. When I turn off the overdrive and start off it still shifts hard but it seems to go a little bit better. But it only shifts into third gear and my question is should this shift into for gears then in overdrive or is it three years and an overdrive? When I have the overdrive off moving about 50 around 2000 RPMs and I push the gas pedal I can feel it kick and pull. Also running normal with the overdrive on moving about 4045 maybe 50 miles an hour I tap the break and the RPMs did not do anything which I think that means that the tour converter is not locking?


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E4OD is a four speed tranny. Fourth is OD. If you push the OD OFF button it will shift up to third and lock the converter.
 

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