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1989 F-250 7.3 Project

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by hacked89, Sep 25, 2018.

  1. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Sweet! Let me know how that heater works. I still need to get something other than just the coal stove in my garage. Would be nice to keep it above freezing all winter.
     
  2. hacked89

    hacked89 Full Access Member

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    Will do. I'm going to try it first without isolating/insulting the ceiling off from the working area. It will be more costly but I like the fact that all the fumes and gases rise out of the personell area. Then the fan can clear them out easy. I know if I sealed it off it would get cozy.

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  3. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    This is why I'm getting ready to hang 1/4" plywood on the bottom of the rafters in my garage. The walls are insulated, but the heat from my wood burning stove escapes through the roof. With the stove and all of the fire wood that I have, I hate not being able to work in there when it's less that about 25 outside. Did I mention that I'm a wimp when it comes to the cold?
     
  4. hacked89

    hacked89 Full Access Member

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    Worked on the truck today. 30 degrees here and it stayed in the mid to upper 50s in the garage. While wrenching I was almost too warm in a heavy sweatshirt and long sleeves.

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  5. hacked89

    hacked89 Full Access Member

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    See what I posted a minute ago to chill. Also, with the shuttered industrial fan that I had framed into the garage ceiling wall I can leave the garage doors closed and cross ventilate from a side door out the fan. When welding I actually feel better ventilated then when taking class in a shop with dedicated booths.

    I've decided I'm not going to seal off the ceiling.

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  6. hacked89

    hacked89 Full Access Member

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    Today.

    In the continued effort to save this trucks life, the frame was rusted through around the driver side leaf spring perches. First I punched out the rivets.
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    Template
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    Another shot with some cleaning
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    I have a bunch of steel. At this point I cut the template out and was like yea this doesn't seem like 1/4". It was 3/8". I didn't have enough 1/4" plate dimension to tail out in a single piece so I did it square. In this application I dont have a concern. For the loading principle I would actually debate whether the vertical welds should even be there, but I did.

    Holes drilled
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    Laying the first beads down
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    Done and coated
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    Bolted.
    [​IMG]





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  7. hacked89

    hacked89 Full Access Member

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    Sunday.

    Stripped the accessories and most of the harness from the engine in the truck.
    [​IMG]

    Fabrication shop near me went out of business. Picked up 560lbs of fresh steel at .25 cents a lb. Here's some of it. Convenient timing for the run stand I am building.
    [​IMG]

    Next, started to strip the second motor I will be using for testing, measurements, and fabricating the run stand.
    Removed the harness and accessories.
    Going to document it, interesting to see the history and mysteries of a motor uncovered.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I was mildly surprised when I removed the bottom bolt from the alternator bracket oil came out.
    When the motor was pulled they snapped the line in the filter head from the lift pump. Got to get a new line and maybe a new filter head if I cant extract it. Looks like someone maybe have used loctite. Also need to get vibration dampeners for one of the return line sides.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Finally took a look under the driver side valve cover.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

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  8. bbjordan

    bbjordan Snow Monkey

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    With some heat to melt the locktite and expand the aluminum housing, you should be able to extract the brass fitting with an EZ-out.
     
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