1972 F-100 7.3 IDI Build

Enginerd

Registered User
Joined
Sep 20, 2019
Posts
66
Reaction score
76
Location
Vilonia, Arkansas
So if it says F100 on the side, but it's got a clackety engine, but it's got 8 lug wheels, but it's an old half ton, but it smokes a lot, but it...
Well what is it exactly? This will be a cool truck! Tight fit to stuff all that in there but sounds like you're up for the challenge! Good luck to you.
 

carsonlhammond

Full Access Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Posts
94
Reaction score
44
Location
Jackson, CA
So if it says F100 on the side, but it's got a clackety engine, but it's got 8 lug wheels, but it's an old half ton, but it smokes a lot, but it...
Well what is it exactly? This will be a cool truck! Tight fit to stuff all that in there but sounds like you're up for the challenge! Good luck to you.

people think I have a CLAPPED OUT 390 in mine sometimes:rotflmao




You must be registered for see images attach
 
Last edited:

Enginerd

Registered User
Joined
Sep 20, 2019
Posts
66
Reaction score
76
Location
Vilonia, Arkansas
It's just one of those things you know. You get interesting comments building anything different from stock form.

Blower = "You need to replace your power steering pump"
Cam = "I think your engine is missing"
N/A diesel thought to be a clapped out 390 = "Did you know you have a rod knocking?"
8 lug half ton = "Yeah they don't build them like they used to. Now all the half tons are 6 lug."
Diesel half ton = "You're burning a lot of oil if you didn't know."
 

Bakersk896

Registered User
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Posts
46
Reaction score
19
Location
Norfolk, Va
Good news to anyone following the build with me. I tore the top end apart and everything is good. Just some build up around the valves. Nothing a good cleaning and a couple hours of lapping can’t fix. No signs of head gasket failure or bad cylinder scoring. The oil is about a 120W now. Seems like it wasn’t changed since GWB was president. I’ll have pictures in a little bit.
 

Steve-o-IDI

Registered User
Joined
May 15, 2018
Posts
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Hagerstown, MD
Sounds like a fun and ambitious project! It may be the perspective of the camera, but the size of the garage door looks like it may be a tight squeeze getting it out the door!

Before you finish the frame, weld some nuts to the underside of the bed mounting holes. I bought some round head stainless bolts to hold mine down. Makes bed removal much easier!
 

Bakersk896

Registered User
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Posts
46
Reaction score
19
Location
Norfolk, Va
@Steve-o-IDI The bed is going to be easy to pull off. Luckily I’m not using the factory tanks so that maintence will be so much easier.

And an update. Yesterday, the frame got stripped with the exception of a couple wires and lines. Now I get to spend $100 on grinding wheels, cutting wheels and wire wheels. She spent a few years being neglected in the forests of rural WV.

Heads are off and are in good shape. Currently soaking in a diesel/kerosene bath for scrubbing today. Gotta pick up a stand for the short block build and start pulling the bottom end for clean and inspect.
 

Tacoma_IDI

Registered User
Joined
Oct 16, 2019
Posts
7
Reaction score
7
Location
Tacoma, WA
I've thought about making aluminum return line injector caps for a long time. Using steel never occurred to me. Love to hear your thoughts on which material is best and how you'd make them? I'm guessing using a CNC mill with specs from the plastic ones for a model?
 

Bakersk896

Registered User
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Posts
46
Reaction score
19
Location
Norfolk, Va
@Tacoma_IDI I’m going to be building a set similar to what R&D has. Using stock bar milled good and flat and using the injector diameter plus room for o-rings as my bore diameter. When that’s done, chuck it back up and send a bit down the length for the return flow path.

The other idea would be instead of the single long bore for return flow, each injector hole could be cross bored and tapped for hard line fittings if you want to get fancy. Then tie them all together and run an NPT to AN fitting for a return line to the tank.

Both are honestly overkill for as low pressures as you see on that line. Honestly, you could bevel the bottom of your plastic caps to minimize the chance of a burr nicking an o-ring.
 
Top