So I've searched with no luck.. hate the raked stance of my 2wd obs and no time for a 4wd conversion yet, so want to see if anyone has used 2" coil spacers on a 2wd. Will camber be noticibly different? If so, what will it take to make it right?
I had a slight shake above 50 mph so I replaced both u joints with off the shelf ujoints. Got a little better but blew the rear out.. and then again.. learned my lesson and got Spicer ujoints and also had the driveshaft balanced. Now its super smooth. But heres my problem:
I want to make sure...
Sounds like I got some bad info.. I was told in a previous post that it was a 200 minimum draw which is why I went with a 250. Looks like I need to order a new fuse?
You can, it just has to be big enough to handle the handle the huge draw glow plugs take. I used a 250 amp fuse and 4 gauge cable. Maybe a little overkill on the wire but it works great. I bought my fuse online, from eBay.
With a sudden issue like that I would start with a quick look at all of the wiring. When i bought my truck they didnt work and it wound up being a ground on the glow plug controller disconnected. Make sure all of your glow plug wires are connected too. There isn't a whole lot to the system. If...
That's something else worth mentioning.. its not as responsive to changes in throttle as it was when I had it hooked up the first time. Its the same gauge but its acting like a different truck. I'm sure you guys are on the right track. The lines not kinked though, I haven't routed it anywhere...
Huh.. it would make sense that there was a crimp or blockage somewhere but I can't figure put what or why. I didn't modify anything but maybe some dirt fell in the hole when I swapped the gauges?
That's good to here. Is it still normal for it to take a second or two when its warmed up and shut off for a less than a minute? Id be less concerned if it were always like this but it just seemed to happen overnight. I was getting oil pressure immediately. It got a bit cooler here but not real...
A couple things to add.. I changed my oil cooler because the pressure regulator was stuck open. I had a manual gauge hooked up to see if my oil pressure problem wad fixed and it was. I never noticed a lag in oil pressure from starting, I only saw it when I hooked up my stock 'dummy' gauge back...
I just hooked my mechanical gauge back up and verified that for some reason its taking 1-3 secs to build oil pressure. The engine starts fine, runs for a couple seconds with no oil pressure and then shoots up to 45-50 psi. Is this normal? If not what's causing it? Maaaan I hope its nothing...
I had the same problem, it was exactly what icanfixall explained. I ran a 4 gauge battery cable from a starter relay post to my power on the controller. I put a 250 amp fuse too. Its been working like a champ. Like icanfixall was explaining, look for the harness under your airbox, should be...
I finally found a salvage yard in town that had one. Not an easy part to find. They said I came off of a 97 powerstroke, apparently they used the same cover.
I'm a little late in the game here but I have a good oil cooler core you can have if you're willing to pay shipping. Youd have to use your header, mine is no good (bad pressure regulator valve) but the tube/heat exchanger is good, never leaked or anything. I replaced the whole thing when I lost...
I looked at some pictures and it looks like they installed a SMF. It sure seemed like it'd be close when I put the cover on. I started it and no unusual noise, I crawled underneath while it was running and put my hand on the cover, didn't feel like anything bad was happening. I'm a newbie...
So I located a flywheel inspection cover and went to install it. On one of the old bolts I noticed a little metal tab that says: Warning, LUK clutch and flywheel installed, only use LUK parts. That's great, but will a stock flywheel inspection cover fit without rubbing? No idea if they are...
Glad the old thread helped out. Yeah, this site is awesome. There is so much combined experience and knowledge on this site it's unbelievable.
To answer your question, I don't regret this as a somewhat permanent fix but I could see myself putting a breaker in eventually. This was low budget...
The link is to the original post I made when my wires burned up and I was trying to figure out why.. I was told to get at least a 200 amp fuse so I went 250. There's a whole discussion about the problem and some really good information...
Yeah, it's definitely not OEM style.. lol.. but it's been mentioned recently in some other recent posts that the factory wires work well when they're new and will eventually overheat as the cables age. They're not really sufficient for the amount of power that the glow plugs draw. Replacing...
I got my fuse from ebay. I don't see the exact one I bought, but the link below is the same style. Like I said, I attached the fuse to starter relay post and then attached the battery cable to it. I got the 4 foot, 4 gauge battery cable from Oreilly's, it was relatively cheap and wound up a...
I used a 250 amp fuse. I attached the fuse to a starter relay post, and ran a 4 gauge battery cable from the fuse to my controller. Its been working great.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.