79jasper
Chickenhawk
You could use a little aviation gasket.
But it's not required.
If the scratches are very deep, better use it.
But it's not required.
If the scratches are very deep, better use it.
Help, diesel down on side of road
- Thread starter mr_smith
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
You can use a setting type sealer on the gasket surface you hurt. Personally I would draw file it with a smooth 12 inch single cut file. Actually I would do that no matter what. Its a well know way to make sure the gasket surface is flat and no burrs. Don't use a gasket sealer that is not cured. Those gaskets are know to slip and then you have a leak. Not something you need to learn about the hard way of doing the job twice. RTV is not a recommended gasket sealer but 3M super Weatherstrip Cement is or permatex avaition cement is used well. Apply it and allow to set up. Make sure the gasket is stuck to the headers or the block. Then place the cooler to the block and install all the bolts hand tight to make sure the gasket has not slipped. Any gasket movement is going to cause a leak.
I'll be doing this...JUST for good measure soon!
DON"T want to do it when in truck!
DON"T want to do it when in truck!
mr_smith
Full Access Member
***, I got everything back together and there is a brass fitting shooting out a steady stream of oil...
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Pictures man. Pictures.
If it's a small square headed plug, that's a oil plug. Used for turbo feeds, gauges,*etc.
If it's a small square headed plug, that's a oil plug. Used for turbo feeds, gauges,*etc.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
If you could please explain more about this fitting and oil gushing out we may be able to help you. Please post a pic or a location where this oil is gushing from. We all want to help you but we need more inforamtion. Trying to make a WAG(wild ass guess) is not going to help. For the life of me I can't think of any brass plug that oil can squirt out of anyplace on the engine.
mr_smith
Full Access Member
Its where the line for the oil pressure gauge goes in. Looks like I ripped the old one off getting the cooler out. Thank you for trying to help though..
I just hope the neighbor kids didn't hear anything I was screaming..
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Ok. That explains it very well now. I'm sure my neighbors are learning some new bad words and phrases too when I'm doing something and its going bad. Because I can walk away and finish the jobs later I think I can let it go easier. But if I needed it to run in the morning I would be burning the lites working in the dark crap. I never did like doing that. Sometimes the good wifey would come drive up from work with steam blowing out from under the car and ask. "Is that supposed to happen cause its been doing that all the way home"!!! I could just scream I get so angry...Never mind.. Its just a car and you have no idea what your doing... Sweety....
mr_smith
Full Access Member
I got everything back on, I decided to change the thermostat since I was covered in oil anyways...
I used a cheap tstat and learned that lesson quick. Now its warming up with a new motorcraft tstat in there.
So far, no leaks, but I was having a hell of a time with the intermediate steering shaft. I have never had to play with taking that shaft off before, now I cant get it back on
I get it lined up and then it doesn't want to go on, it doesn't slide in or anything... what am I doing wrong?
I used a cheap tstat and learned that lesson quick. Now its warming up with a new motorcraft tstat in there.
So far, no leaks, but I was having a hell of a time with the intermediate steering shaft. I have never had to play with taking that shaft off before, now I cant get it back on
I get it lined up and then it doesn't want to go on, it doesn't slide in or anything... what am I doing wrong?
mr_smith
Full Access Member
It appears I am still getting oil in the coolant.
Flushed it like 9 times and still had oil coming out so I checked the dipstick, ran it for a while, checked again and it was low.
What could this be? I was extremely careful putting everything together..
Flushed it like 9 times and still had oil coming out so I checked the dipstick, ran it for a while, checked again and it was low.
What could this be? I was extremely careful putting everything together..
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Has to still be the oil cooler.
Did you use any chemical to flush it?
Did you use any chemical to flush it?
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The steering shaft will only go back together one way. The end that slides over the other piece is made to fit one way. I went thru this and thinking I had it correct it would not fit. So I turned it over and it fit correctly. The end is not squared. One side is wider than the other so it can only fit one way and not mess up the steering. Sorry about the oil still in the engine. Either you cut an o ring when you installed the headers or the bundle is leaking. Not likely the gasket slipped and is leaking but when you remove it you will find out. Did you flie out the header scratches of just try to seal it with rtv or??
crewchief219
Full Access Member
I'm a little late in the game here but I have a good oil cooler core you can have if you're willing to pay shipping. Youd have to use your header, mine is no good (bad pressure regulator valve) but the tube/heat exchanger is good, never leaked or anything. I replaced the whole thing when I lost my oil pressure. You'd have to use your head but it may be worth a shot if its something you're interested in.
mr_smith
Full Access Member
Ok update time
I have no Idea if I am still leaking oil or not, we have flushed the thing a bunch of times and it still has sludge coming out, not as bad but it is there. I appear to be losing a small amount of oil, it not much but its worth mentioning.
Yesterday, I drove the truck about 12 miles and it ran pretty good, it started steaming out of the tube that goes to the recovery tank but not bad.
(It still has the 7lb cap on it)
Today, it went 3 miles and was steaming real bad out of the tube, meanwhile the aftermarket temp gauge read 195 and did not move when I shut it down.
I limped it around to a job and back and it kept steaming every time I shut it down..
Still the temp gauge has not moved from 195 except when I let it cool down before driving another couple miles.
The truck is low on oil right now, my hope is that the low oil combined with a 7lb cap and still sledgey water is why it is doing this.. But what the hell do I know....
So far I have replaced the water pump, installed correct thermostat and changed the oil cooler rings and gaskets as well as cleaned out the oil passages. I should mention that I was very very careful changing the rings. I used assembly lube and jacked it up against the dump body ever so carefully.
Fixall, yes I did take your advice and file it but I did it very lightly as I have never done it before and the scratches weren't all that bad. I used aviation gasket maker (which I love and will use on everything I can now) I don't believe I have any header leaks, I spent some time staring at them when I got it all back together.
crewchief, you sure are an all right guy, I really appreciate you offering to help like that. I may take you up on that cooler core but I want to make sure I actually need it first. I wouldnt want to take something I dont need and then have someone else really need it and not be able to get the help because I jumped the gun. Once again, thank you!
So, now that I got this brush chipped of my customers front yard, I can go back to fixing the truck. (They were getting pissed, I had to leave a rather large pile of brush after a tree removal because this is the only truck I have that can pull my chipper)
My plan as of right this moment is to add this prestone rad flush stuff and let the engine get nice and warm, the flush again. I have the little flush kit and I bought 2 so I could hook a tee up to both heater hoses. First I am going to get the oil up to the correct level. I might put a 13lb cap on it too, but I will admit I am weary of doing that since this all started the day after I changed the water pump and put a 13lb cap on from a 7lb. I might also throw $20 down the drain and add a couple gallons of coolant. Up to this point it was only running straight water because the water pump was leaking.
As always, I would appreciate any suggestions or thoughts as to what else might be wrong/what I should do..
Thank you guys for helping!
I have no Idea if I am still leaking oil or not, we have flushed the thing a bunch of times and it still has sludge coming out, not as bad but it is there. I appear to be losing a small amount of oil, it not much but its worth mentioning.
Yesterday, I drove the truck about 12 miles and it ran pretty good, it started steaming out of the tube that goes to the recovery tank but not bad.
(It still has the 7lb cap on it)
Today, it went 3 miles and was steaming real bad out of the tube, meanwhile the aftermarket temp gauge read 195 and did not move when I shut it down.
I limped it around to a job and back and it kept steaming every time I shut it down..
Still the temp gauge has not moved from 195 except when I let it cool down before driving another couple miles.
The truck is low on oil right now, my hope is that the low oil combined with a 7lb cap and still sledgey water is why it is doing this.. But what the hell do I know....
So far I have replaced the water pump, installed correct thermostat and changed the oil cooler rings and gaskets as well as cleaned out the oil passages. I should mention that I was very very careful changing the rings. I used assembly lube and jacked it up against the dump body ever so carefully.
Fixall, yes I did take your advice and file it but I did it very lightly as I have never done it before and the scratches weren't all that bad. I used aviation gasket maker (which I love and will use on everything I can now) I don't believe I have any header leaks, I spent some time staring at them when I got it all back together.
crewchief, you sure are an all right guy, I really appreciate you offering to help like that. I may take you up on that cooler core but I want to make sure I actually need it first. I wouldnt want to take something I dont need and then have someone else really need it and not be able to get the help because I jumped the gun. Once again, thank you!
So, now that I got this brush chipped of my customers front yard, I can go back to fixing the truck. (They were getting pissed, I had to leave a rather large pile of brush after a tree removal because this is the only truck I have that can pull my chipper)
My plan as of right this moment is to add this prestone rad flush stuff and let the engine get nice and warm, the flush again. I have the little flush kit and I bought 2 so I could hook a tee up to both heater hoses. First I am going to get the oil up to the correct level. I might put a 13lb cap on it too, but I will admit I am weary of doing that since this all started the day after I changed the water pump and put a 13lb cap on from a 7lb. I might also throw $20 down the drain and add a couple gallons of coolant. Up to this point it was only running straight water because the water pump was leaking.
As always, I would appreciate any suggestions or thoughts as to what else might be wrong/what I should do..
Thank you guys for helping!
79jasper
Chickenhawk
When you flush this time, take out the block drains, open radiator drain, and use that yellow elbow thing in place of the radiator cap.
I don't think using two will help, may actually blow your heater core.
I did mine with the engine off. As it was 38°F out, I knew that and a hot block wouldn't go together.
Oh also pull the thermostat.
I don't think using two will help, may actually blow your heater core.
I did mine with the engine off. As it was 38°F out, I knew that and a hot block wouldn't go together.
Oh also pull the thermostat.
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