This is as close to an internal pic as I can find.
You will have to copy and paste to your browser as it will now let me link it, or maybe it will.
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/general/0809dp_stanadyne_db2_injection_pump/photo_07.html
Six new glow plugs, a push button to help with a little extra burn, -7 this morning and no start.
I thought it was plugged in but my timer either quit or got unplugged for a few hours as it did not turn on to warm the truck up.
I am not sure I understand paying for all this testing. What if it keeps coming back the same? Do you stop driving it and rebuild it based on an oil report? If not then why bother testing?
I dealt with them on an IP before I read the reviews. The first one they sent me was no good, simple phone call and a new one was on the way.
Current IP works fine.
The trouble I have is I specifically asked for the correct IP for my truck, I got a generic one with an after market ID...
I am going to give it a try. At this pint and $700 dollars later I am plain frustrated.
I am still baffled as to how this can and did occur. Everything was working just fine and then one day it just started losing all slack. Replacing parts solved nothing.
Thanks for the help.
That gives me something to look for, that is the reason I replaced the master cylinder as well, thinking it was causing a pressure buildup.
When I say play, I mean that first inch or two of pedal travel before it starts to disengage the clutch. This all goes away as you drive. I have had to...
Everything works fine, no leaks anywhere, I just lose pedal play after driving down the highway and it causes the clutch to not want to stay engaged as hard as it should.
Is there any type of return spring on the clutch fork?
I have been chasing a problem for months now.
New clutch, pressure plate, flywheel(single mass) and throwout bearing.
Clutch still lost all play in pedal when driving down the highway and will eventually cause the clutch to start...
You are not losing power to the FSS or it is getting stuck in the "on" position.
It is the wire located on the drivers side of the IP closest to the air cleaner assembly. Verify the operation using a voltmeter or test light.
Yes they should be at full pressure, when they are low the air settles to the bottom and can cause an out of balance situation. Very hard to get right on balance machine with the dense air sloshing around.
I don't see why a person would not just fill a tire up while on...
It should be around 10 degrees tomorrow so I may tackle the fan then. With an unknown history and the amount of crud and crap I found under the seats, anything is possible.
I only have the stock temp gauge but since it got cold the needle won't even hit the "N" on normal.
I just froze my fingers outside.
I did figure out the recirculating door and zip tied it shut, blocked off more radiator and sprayed some lube into the fan through the air vent(?) on the side of the motor.
Cab now smells like liquid wrench.....
It has a new radiator so it is clean and I am not sure on the heater core as I have only had the truck for about 9 months.
Does anybody know where the recirculating door is on a 94 as well as the temp control valve?
I am afraid it is all in the dash somewhere.
Is is possible to reach the fan...
It is cold and getting colder here. My cab heat is alright but not near enough to keep good and warm.
I have blocked the lower 1/4 of my radiator to improve engine heat as it really does not like to stay up in the normal operating range. I do have a thermostat so I know that it isn't running...
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