Clutch fork return spring?

[7bicks]

Is there any type of return spring on the clutch fork?
I have been chasing a problem for months now.

New clutch, pressure plate, flywheel(single mass) and throwout bearing.

Clutch still lost all play in pedal when driving down the highway and will eventually cause the clutch to start slipping under a load. It makes clutch engagement VERY high on pedal travel. This is why I replaced the clutch in the first place, I assumed it was bad, $600 later and still has a problem.

Replaced clutch master cylinder, problem still there.

Replaced clutch slave. Clutch is harder to depress, play goes away when driving but clutch did not slip this time, or yet.

The only thing I can now think I may have overlooked is the fact that something shoudl be trying to return the clutch fork?
I am out of ideas. it does not seem physically possible for the clutch play to disappear while driving down the highway without even using the clutch, but it does.

 

[redneckaggie]

did you make sure that the clutch fork was aligned correctly on the tob. Another thing to look is it the rear main, if it is leaking it could be messing with the surface on the flywheel

 

[7bicks]

Everything works fine, no leaks anywhere, I just lose pedal play after driving down the highway and it causes the clutch to not want to stay engaged as hard as it should.

 

[franklin2]

There is no play in the system normally. That's evident by the way you have to compress the slave to get it installed. These hydraulic clutch systems are made with the throwout bearing riding against the clutch at all times.

But they do not have enough pressure to dis-engage the clutch. What I would do is take the rod loose that goes into the clutch master cylinder, and see how much play you have there. If you are pushing on the rod to get the linkage hooked up under the dash, then I would suspect just like with the brake system, you are pushing too much on the clutch master, and that will plug the compensation port in the master, and not let the fluid be able to go into the reservoir when it gets warm. If this happens in the braking system, the brakes will start applying as you drive down the road. I am wondering if the same thing could happen in the clutch system. The clutch master reservoir should be open to the line and the slave, so when the fluid warms up, it can expand into the reservoir.

 

[7bicks]

That gives me something to look for, that is the reason I replaced the master cylinder as well, thinking it was causing a pressure buildup.
When I say play, I mean that first inch or two of pedal travel before it starts to disengage the clutch. This all goes away as you drive. I have had to bend the clutch pedal stop up and out of the way or I would not get any engagement after driving down the highway. It seems that none of this is an issue if I stick to town driving.

 

[swampdigger]

One thing that can happen, if the master cylinder to pedal pushrod is too tight, it blocks the bypass port in the master. When the fluid in your line heats up, it will expand, build pressure. Which normally should be vented to the reservoir.

When you remove the clip holding the slave in place, with all your might, can you compress the slave at all? It's tough, but you should be able to. If it won't budge at all, the bypass port in your master is plugged. Either because the pedal pushrod is pressing against it a bit, or there is crap in there.

 

[7bicks]

As both cylinders are new, what would be the best way to add space between the clutch and master rod?

 

[redneckaggie]

search for hydraulic clutch nightmares, lots of good info in there.

 

[swampdigger]

As both cylinders are new, what would be the best way to add space between the clutch and master rod?

Some trucks came with adjustable pushrods. Should be a quick pull from your favourite junkyard!

 

[franklin2]

I had the opposite problem, so I took my clutch master out and cut the rod with a hacksaw about in the middle of the larger part of the rod. A 3/8-16 die can be run over the large part to put threads on it. So I threaded both pieces after I cut it, and since I needed it to be longer, I used a long 3/8-16 coupler nut and pinned that on the master side, and used a locknut on the pedal side to make it adjustable.

I know what would work for you and be easy. Loosen the master on the firewall and put a spacer between it and the firewall.

 

[zpd307]

adjustable pushrod cured my problems..... the used clutch master that i had all ready had one attached to it. i heard napa carries one.

 

[RLDSL]

Napa carries the adjustable rod, about 11 bucks. If your clutch rod has the safety switch clipped around it, you will need to remove the master and pull the assembly out through the firewall then take the plastic from the switch and grind out the groove in the switch to the nut will wiggle in there . a dremmel tool with a small grinding wheel works well here. You have to bolt the master back up and st the rod length, then unbolt the master so you can attach the switch on the engine side of the firewall and push the whole assembly through together. remember to attach the rod before you get the master tightened down . Good time to plug the switch back in while you're down there so you don't have to climb in again. By the way most masters will turn in their mount to allow access to the nuts with an extension.

 

[franklin2]

He might ask the question I had when I was modifying mine. How does the rod come out of the master? I pulled and ****** on it a little bit and it didn't come out, and I didn't feel like tearing it apart, so I did half of the modifications on mine over top of the engine. If he replaces the rod, how is it retained in the master?

 

[RLDSL]

He might ask the question I had when I was modifying mine. How does the rod come out of the master? I pulled and ****** on it a little bit and it didn't come out, and I didn't feel like tearing it apart, so I did half of the modifications on mine over top of the engine. If he replaces the rod, how is it retained in the master?

It snaps in there, It's real tight, but if you push it to one side and pry on it while you pull it will come out. the new one snaps in basically straight in and it's an instant gotcha.

 

[7bicks]

I am going to give it a try. At this pint and $700 dollars later I am plain frustrated.
I am still baffled as to how this can and did occur. Everything was working just fine and then one day it just started losing all slack. Replacing parts solved nothing.

Thanks for the help.