Guess the source of my Knock

These heads are designed so that if you drop the pushrod through on top the lifter, it will go into the right place. Finding the pocket should be easy. If your pushrod is going in "deeper", then you most likely have a bad (collapsed) lifter.

79,

Thanks so much for the picture. That is great. I will definitely try pulling the lifter and inspecting it. After some reading it looks like the lifter can collapse at the roller on the bottom or at the top? If the roller collapsed then cam damage may result. What components at the top of the lifter get crushed? is it not just solid steel?

Search for about how a hydraulic lifter works.
Should explain a lot.

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Just something to consider...I have a 6.9 diesel in a 1985 F350.
I started hearing a thumping noise that I thought was a bearing going bad. A mechanic listened to it and said it was a bad injector.
I had my injectors rebuilt (cleaned and pop tested) had two cracked sleeves on the injectors.
I have just re-installed the injectors and started the engine, but because I have some bad leaks at the injector connection to the hard lines from the pump I haven't run the engine long enough to determine for positive if the sound is gone.
My truck is a VERY noisy diesel anyway.
You should at least consider your injectors.
The rebuilders that did my injectors ask me if my fuel was old.
It was VERY OLD as this truck has been down for years due to electrical
wiring problems (Fords short out in the wiring harness under the dash near the fuse box)
My fuel had varnished and I couldn't easily drain the tanks (they were very low, near empty) so I put an entire can of Seafoam in each tank to hopefully dissolve any junk in them. I put five gallons of new diesel in the one tank I run off of and started the truck using that fuel.
As soon as I fix the fuel leaks, I will put at least a half tank of new diesel in that tank and add Stanadyne injector cleaner in the fuel and run the truck until it's empty to see if it runs better.
You should do this even if you have checked you lifters. They might unstick along with anything else that is crudded up.

I Wonder if the lifter came apart. I know it's possible, if rare - the only thing holding it together is a thin spring-clip.

I have an engine here that a lifter or two grenaded in, real shame because it was a low mileage idit. I got it as a core in exchange for a built motor for a customer, there was so much metal on the passenger side of the engine I never tore further into it.

The lower in the following picture is the lifter/rod that we determined was loose by taking the valve cover off. Collapsed?



*** is this.......? I have 3 examples of this under the hood.


Figured I would wait to pull the lifters out until you guys had a chance to comment.



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It is junk. Replace it. The piston should not have turned in the lifter.

Time to replace all the lifters

Any reason to not got with the EngineTech lifters? Says they meet OEM spec.....

Make sure the new ones have needle bearings on the roller. Sleeve bearings do not hold up as long.

Please post up what you find on them. I'm afraid that I'm going to be buying lifters soon as well. The price is attractive, but I don't know about the quality.

You get what you pay for (sometimes)... Melling, Sealed Power, Mahle are good brands and the difference is about $80 more for a set of 16. I'd be wary of the cheapest ones, considering the damage if one breaks!

Just when you think you've seen it all...

How the heck does that happen? How is it even possible for the push-rod seats to come out?

DrCharles said:

You get what you pay for (sometimes)... Melling, Sealed Power, Mahle are good brands and the difference is about $80 more for a set of 16. I'd be wary of the cheapest ones, considering the damage if one breaks!

Click to expand...

That's why I'm not sold on the Enginetech brand.