from what i understand , some machine shops are gluing the sleeves in, not a good idea. sleeves should have a step machined on them that mates to a step machined in the block which locks them in. also wet sleeves have seals that prevent coolant from leaking at the top and bottom. your caveatted...
Saw this over on another forum and thought some of you might find it useful:
Quote:
Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud...
i bit on the same deal, buy three, one free, from the zone. replaced the stock ones on my wifes exploder that had over 100k on them. there no better than the ones i took off. i should have saved my time and coin. my advice, buy a better grade.
the number three shaft bearing on the turbo jet engines i worked on in the military had a oil nozzle that had to be aligned with a special tool that we didn't have. so one of us would blow smoke through the lines while another would adjust the nozzle.
edit: i didn't think it was necessary...
the last time i did something like this i used a spindle from a 3/4 ton chev. welded the stub in the vertical position- re install the hub without the brake drum. make a plate for the crane to mount to the lug nuts.
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