94 f350, 7.3 idi factory turbo. My injection pump won't send fuel to the injectors. Truck sat for a couple of years. Getting fuel out of the return and have jumped the FSS. Have all sorts of glow plug issues but that's a problem for another day. Don't know where to go next, is there any more options or do I need a new pump?
Injection pump ?
- Thread starter Kreek
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Welcome to the forum. Have to checked if the tanks have at least 1/4 tank of fuel? Many trucks have broken fuel pickups in the tanks and they can suck out the last 1/4 tank of fuel. Where is the fuel coming out of the return line system? On the filter head is a schrader valve. This looks like any air valve on any tire. When cranking all you do is press in on it and see if fuel comes out. How are you determining no fuel is reaching the injectors? If you have an injector line loose the amount of fuel you MIGHT see is very small. You will never see fuel squirting out like a gas engine carb does.
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
OLDBULL8
Good Morning Ya'll.
The FSS might be stuck, keep clicking the solenoid a bunch of times. You can empty the filter and fill it with some Seafoam, then try to start, there is very little diesel fuel in the IP and line, let it set for a few hours, might just loosen up things if there stuck.
FORDF250HDXLT
The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air
Thanks for the info guys. I have almost half a tank of fuel. I remove the return line from the IP, that's where I'm getting fuel from. As far as the FSS, it is clicking so I am assuming it is working for now. I've not even got a drip from the injector lines. Thought the IP shaft might be broken but not sure. This is my first ford diesel so I am learning as I go. The truck only has 124000 miles on it so it still has a lot of life left. Just trying to resurrect the old girl. It seems easier to work on than my old 12 valve. If you think of anything I'm leaving out let me know, as I am new to the whole forum thing.
OLDBULL8
Good Morning Ya'll.
Loosen ALL the injector lines at the injectors about two turns, crank until you see fuel at one or more injectors, tighten any injector line that shows fuel, crank until all lines show fuel tightening them as they show fuel, might surprise you that it will start even with a few not tightened.
Only crank for 20 seconds, then let starter cool off for at least 3 minutes, then crank again.
Disconnect the wire going to the glow plugs at the relay, that's so the GP's don't cycle each time between cranks. Helps to keep the batteries from running down from cranking, that is if your using the key to crank.
With the key ON in the run position, you can short out with a screw driver between the large poles on the starter relay, that way you can watch for fuel at the injectors. Stop cranking and tighten any line showing fuel.
Only crank for 20 seconds, then let starter cool off for at least 3 minutes, then crank again.
Disconnect the wire going to the glow plugs at the relay, that's so the GP's don't cycle each time between cranks. Helps to keep the batteries from running down from cranking, that is if your using the key to crank.
With the key ON in the run position, you can short out with a screw driver between the large poles on the starter relay, that way you can watch for fuel at the injectors. Stop cranking and tighten any line showing fuel.
Last edited:
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
Hold full throttle whilst cranking
Ensure you are spinning really freaking fast starter speed. Fuel should shoot out schrader valve in strong spirts.
An electric lift pump temp to filter may help nicely too.
Just sayin
Ensure you are spinning really freaking fast starter speed. Fuel should shoot out schrader valve in strong spirts.
An electric lift pump temp to filter may help nicely too.
Just sayin
Blind Driver2
Full Access Member
Remove the three screws on top of the injector pump and pull the cover back. There should be fuel in there.
This won't matter. The way the governor works inside the pump, when rpm is below desired(idle) the governor gives it essentially full throttle to supply fuel till it meets low rpm requirements of the governor, then it will back fuel back off. Ever get close to stalling the engine out by lugging it down, then quick push clutch in to get rpm back? The engine will surge up just above idle then return back down. God I love that low rpm governor. Works great for the rock crawling I do. Truck will idle to a ledge, come to a complete stop for a split second, then the governor will give it a little more fuel to get rpm back up, and the truck slowly lunges over the ledge.
This is correct. However, that assumes that the metering valve is free to rotate when the FSS is energized. Removing the top cover and checking that the governor linkage moves freely would be worth a try. If it is, then the most likely scenario in this case is that the plungers are stuck. This can happen with bad fuel sitting for a long time. If you have a manual transmission, drag that truck and try to spin it as hard as you can. You could also temporarily connect a 60 PSI lift pump to try to get them to budge. IF it starts, then you will find out if the advance is stuck too. You may be due for a new pump and injectors if that fails you.
OLDBULL8
Good Morning Ya'll.
If by chance you do that, make damn sure when putting the cover back on it goes back on correctly or you could have a runaway engine.
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FORDF250HDXLT
The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air
i was about to post the same warning too Bill.to someone unfamiliar with these trucks,they would probably be in for a scare after messing with the top cover.
while installing the smoke puff limiter i learned how easy it could be to...........mess my pants.
while installing the smoke puff limiter i learned how easy it could be to...........mess my pants.
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