Collant Filter Plumbing?

[crash-harris]

So I have my coolant filter head and the filter itself, along with all the stainless fittings to plumb it, but I got to thinking...

Went does everyone plum the inlet side of the filter in the heater core inlet hose, but then plumb the outlet in the other house that seems coolant back to the engine (from the heater core)?

Wouldn't it make more sense to use 2 L-valves and plumb the filter inline with just the house that feeds the heater core (from the engine)? L-valves would still allow one to shut off the flow to the filter to change it or in case of leaks, but still allow normal flow of coolant from the engine, through the heater core, and then back to the engine.

So why is this not the standard plumbing versus bridging the heater hoses with the filter?

 

[79jasper]

Many do it that way. You'll know when the filter is getting full because your heater will get weak.

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[crash-harris]

That's the reason why I thought of L-valves. Being in Ohio, heater function is essential. If the coolant filter is plumbed in line with a single hose (versus bridging the 2), it would allow normal heater function and still let the additive to circulate through the system.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

so you don't like cold feet uh? you sissy!...........im with ya!

the reason is,because of needless added cost (how often is a filter going to plug up? though iv had it happen once so far) but it also really makes a mess under the hood.for a clean looking install,there isn't anything like directly placing the filter inline with the block to heater core line and calling it good.
it's just not messy enough to change a filter, to warrant the extra clutter but, if you don't care about that then plumb away because really other than appearance and a few more bucks,there's no reason to not add shut off/bypass valves.

bypass valve setup;
http://www.oilburners.net/articles/pictures/coolplumb3.jpg

pic attached of mine for simple in/out.

he wont need to do anything but close/open some valves in the event he looses heat in the cab.where i had to stop at an auto store and grab a filter.
i suppose i could keep a connector handy and simply grab a screw driver and connect the hoses together in case it happens again or even carry a spare filter but it's not that tough to find a napa.

 

[riotwarrior]

so you don't like cold feet uh? you sissy!...........im with ya!

the reason is,because of needless added cost (how often is a filter going to plug up? though iv had it happen once so far) but it also really makes a mess under the hood.for a clean looking install,there isn't anything like directly placing the filter inline with the block to heater core line and calling it good.
it's just not messy enough to change a filter, to warrant the extra clutter but, if you don't care about that then plumb away because really other than appearance and a few more bucks,there's no reason to not add shut off/bypass valves.

bypass valve setup;
http://www.oilburners.net/articles/pictures/coolplumb3.jpg

pic attached of mine for simple in/out.

he wont need to do anything but close/open some valves in the event he looses heat in the cab.where i had to stop at an auto store and grab a filter.
i suppose i could keep a connector handy and simply grab a screw driver and connect the hoses together in case it happens again or even carry a spare filter but it's not that tough to find a napa.

How do u find changing fuel filter? Looks close and a bit of a PITA

I plan a similar setup however I will bend my agle iron towards front of truck some for more filter access. No valves however it will be plumbed in by pass mode with two T's in feed and return to heater core and a line in out on filter.

Nice that we have options and can so eazily share ideas.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i just changed the fuel filter during the moose ip install.i don't recall now actually doing it so im going to guess it wasn't too bad.

yeah,lots of options and choices.there's no wrong way to do it so long as the flow is correct through the filter.limited only to our imaginations and preferences.

edit;
i do remember now! yes it could of been a PITA,however all i did was simply unbolt the two coolant filter mounting bolts and moved the whole thing out of the way while i changed the fuel filter then bolted it back on.took just an extra couple mins.so not too bad for something that needs to be changed every 60k miles/4 years or during an ip swap.
now i gotta get back to the pats! go pats!

 

[crash-harris]

so you don't like cold feet uh? you sissy!...........im with ya!

the reason is,because of needless added cost (how often is a filter going to plug up? though iv had it happen once so far) but it also really makes a mess under the hood.for a clean looking install,there isn't anything like directly placing the filter inline with the block to heater core line and calling it good.
it's just not messy enough to change a filter, to warrant the extra clutter but, if you don't care about that then plumb away because really other than appearance and a few more bucks,there's no reason to not add shut off/bypass valves.

bypass valve setup;
http://www.oilburners.net/articles/pictures/coolplumb3.jpg

pic attached of mine for simple in/out.

he wont need to do anything but close/open some valves in the event he looses heat in the cab.where i had to stop at an auto store and grab a filter.
i suppose i could keep a connector handy and simply grab a screw driver and connect the hoses together in case it happens again or even carry a spare filter but it's not that tough to find a napa.

I've seen that pic here before. Makes my head spin everytime I look at! No way I'm getting that complex. It's just another reason why I'm thinking of plumbing it inline with the flow to the heater core. I know I want valves though. I'm pretty on about having manual failsafes when I can.

 

[jhenegh]

Just so I can wrap my pea brain around this:

We can successfully just plumb a coolant filter in-line with a heater core line? It doesn't need to necessairly be a bypass setup like I've seen so may others?

Now if I'm understanding the consequences right: Heater flow/heat output will suffer when filter is getting clogged. (aka change the filter)

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Just so I can wrap my pea brain around this:

We can successfully just plumb a coolant filter in-line with a heater core line? It doesn't need to necessairly be a bypass setup like I've seen so may others?

Now if I'm understanding the consequences right: Heater flow/heat output will suffer when filter is getting clogged. (aka change the filter)

yes.you got it right.i run the penray need release filters and apparently what happened was the SCA's must of congealed.im gunna cut it open to inspect it.
for those running normal napa/wix with or without SCA,type of filters,which simply dump sca's all at once,those wont plug up for sure.......so long as the system has been properly maintained.though you'll catch a whole lot of sand casting with your first filter,so don't be surprised to have a slight reduction of heat in the cab after 8-10k miles on your first filter.

it's funny,because in an advertisement penray claims their sca's wont clog up a filter like their competitors but something sure happened lol.it was hardly dribbling through.

 

[jhenegh]

yes.you got it right.i run the penray need release filters and apparently what happened was the SCA's must of congealed.im gunna cut it open to inspect it.
for those running normal napa/wix with or without SCA,type of filters,which simply dump sca's all at once,those wont plug up for sure.......so long as the system has been properly maintained.though you'll catch a whole lot of sand casting with your first filter,so don't be surprised to have a slight reduction of heat in the cab after 8-10k miles on your first filter.

it's funny,because in an advertisement penray claims their sca's wont clog up a filter like their competitors but something sure happened lol.it was hardly dribbling through.

Well my motivation for a coolant filter install just went up. I wan't too hot to trot on the bypass style

 

[crash-harris]

I'll plan on picking up a 2nd sca filter from napa after my install then. My 7.3L was replaced at some point by a PO before the guy I bought the truck from. It's a Jasper reman and last time the coolant was changed (last PO resealed the oil cooler), cooling system was filled with general autozone green, no additives. I had hoped to get some SCA in the system before now, but since I have to pull the radiator anyway, it'll be the best time to do the install.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

I'll plan on picking up a 2nd sca filter from napa after my install then. My 7.3L was replaced at some point by a PO before the guy I bought the truck from. It's a Jasper reman and last time the coolant was changed (last PO resealed the oil cooler), cooling system was filled with general autozone green, no additives. I had hoped to get some SCA in the system before now, but since I have to pull the radiator anyway, it'll be the best time to do the install.

probably just as well you didn't add sca's to that coolant,as it needs to be specifically low silicate for the sca's to mix and work.had you added it to regular green you would've gotten a sludgy mess and no sca protection.you'll need a complete drain,including block drains to get it all out before pouring in some low silicate juice.

 

[crash-harris]

I planned on draining the entire system.

What kinds/brands of coolant should I be looking for?

I have access to a Napa, Autozone, Advance and O'Reilly's (don't go to those 2 if I can avoid it), and of course walmart.

I know Fleetcharge is one brand, but do they, or Napa make a coolant for our rigs with no SCA already in it (since I'll be charging the system via the filter).

EDIT: The Autozone "universal" coolant claims that it's silicate free. It states the color as yellow, but I've used it in the gasser truck and it's green.

 

[79jasper]

This is just what I would do.
Do the normal Fleet charge, with a plain Jane coolant filter.
For the first year or so you'll be changing them often, and in that time frame you shouldn't need to add any sca. Once the sca starts to degrade (or sooner) throw on one of the sca release filters.
Good to go.

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[crash-harris]

So I should get Fleetcharge with 8 units of sca and a non-charged filter?

I made a crude, freehand illustration of how I plan to run my filter inline with only one heater hose and so maintain a filter bypass.

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Would it be better to ruin this setup inline with the house running from the block to the heater core, or the house from the heater core to the water pump?