Oil Filter housing threads damaged. NEED HELP ASAP!
- Thread starter Brady
- Start date
siegler
Registered User
How is a thread file 'half assed'? It's designed to clean up bad threads, or at least that's how I have always used them when a proper die or replacement wasn't immediately available.
IDIoit
MachinistFabricator
once threads are cut, thats what they are... GOOD THREADS.
once there buggered up, thats it. doneski, finito, gonzo!
now on a bolt that holds an IP gear housing, valve cover, or other part, where more bolts keep the item in place, id say rock it.
ive cleaned up enough threads in my day to know all too well about your situation.
what im saying, is that in a jam, id try to clean the threads... but that part would be ordered ASAP
do what you want. you asked for opinions. i gave you mine.
once there buggered up, thats it. doneski, finito, gonzo!
now on a bolt that holds an IP gear housing, valve cover, or other part, where more bolts keep the item in place, id say rock it.
ive cleaned up enough threads in my day to know all too well about your situation.
what im saying, is that in a jam, id try to clean the threads... but that part would be ordered ASAP
do what you want. you asked for opinions. i gave you mine.
siegler
Registered User
My apologies if my reply made it sound like a thread file would be a permanent fix. Not the intention at all, it's just to get him back on the road and making money asap. A new header should be ordered for sure, from international. The ford header ends are different from his international truck's header ends. I tried using an international filter end for my pick up once, the ford one was different to clear the engine cross member. I can't say for sure on the van ones for interchange.
Last edited:
C_Luft
Full Access Member
I had the same issue with my truck, I ended up putting on a K&N oil filter and using the nut on the end of the filter to snug it up to the housing. That was after going to two different orielly locations for a Motorcraft powerstroke oil filter to see if I simply got a bad filter. It seems that an entire order of powerstroke filters were bad or defective.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
At one point in time I had one that seemed like it didn't want to go on. Most likely psd filter, could have even been on my psd.
But anyways it started doing that where it was tight going on. I think I just kept going. I know I didn't use a filter wrench because I didn't have one that big at the time. Lol
But now I use Mobil 1 filters exclusively and haven't had that problem.
Iirc it was a napa or orielly filter that caused it.
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But anyways it started doing that where it was tight going on. I think I just kept going. I know I didn't use a filter wrench because I didn't have one that big at the time. Lol
But now I use Mobil 1 filters exclusively and haven't had that problem.
Iirc it was a napa or orielly filter that caused it.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
Let me get this straight....
There is advice to....ahem....let me wrap my head around this now
FILE the threads....
Now let me grasp this idea and stick it in the idea wringer washer in me head.....
Uhm....NOT....no way unless emergency.....nope nadda...file equates to filings....on yer filter thread....going into your oil....
Lets take an SOS pad a d scuff our bearings up too while at it
Just saying
Wringer machine has wrung its verdict
There is advice to....ahem....let me wrap my head around this now
FILE the threads....
Now let me grasp this idea and stick it in the idea wringer washer in me head.....
Uhm....NOT....no way unless emergency.....nope nadda...file equates to filings....on yer filter thread....going into your oil....
Lets take an SOS pad a d scuff our bearings up too while at it
Just saying
Wringer machine has wrung its verdict
CDX825
filtration nut
He mentioned using a thread file. Its along the same lines as chasing the threads with a die. If you know how to use one it works very well.
IDIoit
MachinistFabricator
the problem with a thread file is that you wont beable to get around the complete threads.
sure if you took it off, you can, but if you take it off you may as well get a new one.
BioFarmer93
OPEC Hater
Icanfixall said: -"Remember to clean off all the lapping (or filings) and gravity is your friend here". This aint rocket science, a minute or two spent masking or covering holes before filing and then after, a moment spent with a clean rag and a fresh can (good pressure) of WD40 blasting off any residual filings makes the job plenty safe.
IDIoit
MachinistFabricator
pictures.
the 6.9/7.3 block ID numbers are ontop of the block next to the IP gear housing
driverside
the 6.9/7.3 block ID numbers are ontop of the block next to the IP gear housing
driverside
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
Icanfixall said: -"Remember to clean off all the lapping (or filings) and gravity is your friend here". This aint rocket science, a minute or two spent masking or covering holes before filing and then after, a moment spent with a clean rag and a fresh can (good pressure) of WD40 blasting off any residual filings makes the job plenty safe.
I will stand with my original idea replace header.
If u file an a burr exists it could roll up or off...
Life over limb....ok do this file way...otherwise..replace.
Plus you know cooler is clean id done this way and wont be problem later
Ok it is a 10809000C3 which makes it a 1992-1994 Turbo block. However I have no turbo.
I chased the threads with some reliefs cut into a oil filter, working it back and forth with some thread cutting oil. I could get it to tighten by hand to where the seal touched the mating surface and that was as far as I could go by hand. I tightened it further with a strap wrench to get it seat to where I felt it would seal and not leak. I was then able to pull it back off. Its still harder to put on then I want but it is definitely better. Im going to see if I can find some lapping compound and work it some more tomorrow. I know it would be a better idea to change the oil cooler. I just dont have the time at the moment and Im worried I will snap a bolt off in the block and be further in a bind
I chased the threads with some reliefs cut into a oil filter, working it back and forth with some thread cutting oil. I could get it to tighten by hand to where the seal touched the mating surface and that was as far as I could go by hand. I tightened it further with a strap wrench to get it seat to where I felt it would seal and not leak. I was then able to pull it back off. Its still harder to put on then I want but it is definitely better. Im going to see if I can find some lapping compound and work it some more tomorrow. I know it would be a better idea to change the oil cooler. I just dont have the time at the moment and Im worried I will snap a bolt off in the block and be further in a bind
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