coolant filter question

[LCAM-01XA]

Yes, use lock nuts whenever possible. Grade-8 everything, including the washers. Come to think of it I don't recall any factory fastener that wasn't Grade-8, so if that's what IHC did that's what we do as well.

 

[Fixnstuff]

First off, welcome aboard!

Second...I don't know if you've had a chance to look at the Tech Articles on here yet, but I wrote articles on the coolant filter and bypass valve a few years back. I firmly agree with you about installing the filter as a bypass filter, but I'm very curious to see your conclusions on why installing the filter inline is not a good idea (I've gotten into this argument in the past with a few other members who claim no ill effects). Furthermore, given that you've apparently done quite a bit of research on the topic, I'd love to see what faults you find with my write-up so that I can make corrections.

IDI Tech Articles

Coolant filter article

Heater core bypass valve

By the way, I first used an aftermarket bypass valve that developed a leak within a month of install. I replaced it with an OEM Ford valve that's been doing perfectly for 10 years now

Thank you, I haven't been back to this topic in quite some time. Yes, I read your tech article back when I was studying this, (probably in April- including articles you referred to) Very Well Done!

I knew that I would need to have "all of my ducks in a row" with technical information and better still "proofs" to support or prove my reasoning.

The technical reasoning I have for not installing a filter in-line is just that, my own "reasoning" and without technical data to support it or direct proofs by measuring flow and pressures at various points, including observations through a clear (see through) section of hose, my reasoning could be misleading or false and I don't want that to happen.
I have planned to do that when I install a filter which won't be until next year due to more important fixes right now - slow going with cold wet rainy weather almost every day- I've been reluctant to work in it but I'll have to.

A couple of my concerns have been addressed by others in this topic and don't require technical explanations. As far as changing a filter that is installed inline when I notice there is no heat... I don't want to have to do that while I'm in a blizzard in a remote area like Wyoming with ambient temperatures of 60F below zero, 70+ mile per hour winds, 100 deg.F below zero wind chill factors, the gates already closed on the interstate and I'm the only one left out there. I was in those conditions in a class C motor-home when it died on top of a hill. When I had to open the hood I thought a good wind gust would rip the hood right off and send it into the next county. The wind did bend the hood around the area that attaches to the hinge. Thank goodness I knew enough to find a burned out fuse link in an ignition wire, cut it out and spliced the wire and was on my way again. I don't want to have to change a filter due to lack of heat in the cab anytime anywhere.

An inline filter assembly in my opinion had better have a very well engineered bypass that functions long before the filter clogs and the system should have minimal restriction to flow at all times. I doubt if that is the case but I don't know.


After posting I spent quite a lot of time trying to find things like technical/engineering information on the water pump, even a cutaway view with dimensions would have helped, but that's filed away in Navistar and Ford engineering archives which are not online. Also resistance to flow through these filters - resistance increasing as the filter gets dirty and eventually completely clogs requiring an adequate built in bypass- if it doesn't have one - oh-oh for inline filter. No problem in parallel installation.

You might see what I'm getting at. I'll explain later because this is a rare no-rain day with the sun out and I have to get some work done on my truck, drain the block so I can finish flushing the cooling system, start installing my new positive battery cable assembly (at the starter) and make progress on a lot of other things under the hood that I'm working on.

If I am very lucky, (later on) a well crafted, clear and concise letter to Navistar might reach an engineer who has worked on cooling systems and may also remember the IDIs. A qualified opinion from such an engineer would be enough that I won't have to do tests myself.

Have to get ready to go outside and get some work done.

 

[Fixnstuff]

We got a pusher fan for that purpose,

Me too after about 2 times pulling that grade and still used the heater on max with the windows open to be safe, not on recirc. I don't mind the heat in the cab.

Yeah that's the door alright....... >Well if you got the servo and vacuum supply for it (look on top of the HVAC box by the passenger-side hood hinge), your task can be very easy - get the vacuum-powered 4-port diverter valve and T-ee it into the line for the recirc door servo. You lose the recirculating heat option tho.

unfortunately I use re-circulation often in my other vehicles for quicker heat and to vent moisture out faster (fogged up windows) through a partially opened window(s).

To be honest the only time I've found recirculating heat useful is either while driving thu areas with just bad odors in the air (think swamps at night), or when it gets so cold outside we gotta cover the grille to prevent the engine from overcooling.

To add: If you ever find yourself on the downwind side of fields being sprayed with hog manure for fertilizer you'll be glad your windows work too, while watching for radar cops.

After reading your post when it first went up I was going to try to figure out a way to reverse that vacuum in a line T-eed from the blend door vacuum (if possible) but I am setting aside this project until next year so no need to address it now.

I've been very impressed with your knowledge in other topics and appreciate your help and input in this whole thread. THANKS!

I have to get some work done outside now.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

As far as changing a filter that is installed inline when I notice there is no heat... I don't want to have to do that while I'm in a blizzard in a remote area like Wyoming with ambient temperatures of 60F below zero, 70+ mile per hour winds, 100 deg.F below zero wind chill factors, the gates already closed on the interstate and I'm the only one left out there.

if your coolant system was so neglected that the filter completely clogs,then that would be very poor maintenance especially knowing you were going to be out in that misery lol.
if your worried about the sand casting this much,then you should simply install a filter a few months before winter.it doesn't take but just a couple oil changes worth of miles to get it all out.from there on,filters will remain pretty clean.
i run the penray need release to self monitor and regulate the SCA's.
to go one step further,you could always bypass your filter altogether for winter months inside 5 mins.then you could rest easy about it.
hey if your all for bypasses and valves and having a plumbing atmosphere under your hood to have peace of mind,go for it.

i'll be out there worry and issue free as iv always been without all the plumbing under my hood.

You must be registered for see images attach

though that's my worst case scenario anyway.im planning on abandoning ship this year and just skip out on the brutal cold and snow altogether if i can help it.park the truck and head south/west.

 

[Fixnstuff]

if your coolant system was so neglected that the filter completely clogs,then that would be very poor maintenance especially knowing you were going to be out in that misery lol.

I was judging by the photos from the tech article mentioned and a few comments I've read on forums. I don't know how well my truck was maintained by previous owners for 27 years but the original radiator is clean and tubes are clear. Copper fins have some decay.

if your worried about the sand casting this much,then you should simply install a filter a few months before winter.it doesn't take but just a couple oil changes worth of miles to get it all out.from there on,filters will remain pretty clean.

You mean If anyone is worried about residual casting sand. I wasn't, but since I now know it is there along with other crud and I want my truck to be as good as it can be (perfectionist) I intend to install a filter system that functions as well as it can function without contributing to other problems or being ugly and intrusive.

i run the penray need release to self monitor and regulate the SCA's.

I'm not convinced that any of these SCA release filters actually monitor or regulate anything in any intelligent way. So far I've only seen that they slowly release SCAs via a slowly dissolving pellet of some sort. If they do dissolve by somehow detecting when SCAs begin to diminish then that is some highly advanced chemistry which I am much inclined to doubt exists in this situation. Marketing and sales propaganda might suggest this for the consumers' imaginations to take it further but until I see some qualified claim or evidence that this exists, I won't believe advertising propaganda and certainly not imagine that it says more than it actually does say.

However I don't think this is a bad idea because I don't want to be testing for SCAs either! I have Fleet Charge SCA Pre-charged and yesterday I got the block drained. (wear good safety glasses it sprays all over the place with no warning when the plugs pop out) - It's been a slow job due to lots of rainy days and I'm not set up with rain gear yet to crawl in the mud.

to go one step further,you could always bypass your filter altogether for winter months inside 5 mins.then you could rest easy about it.

Yes one could do that but I don't want to have to do that.

hey if your all for bypasses and valves and having a plumbing atmosphere under your hood to have peace of mind,go for it...i'll be out there worry and issue free as iv always been without all the plumbing under my hood.

You are missing an important point that is in my plans. All of this can be done parallel without overly intrusive and ugly plumbing, with only two valves but with smaller handles or even a thumb twist knob to close. (I'll find one or modify one) used for changing the filter. Mounted on the fender the only significant addition is a crossover hose to a Tee fitting in the other line, not very intrusive or ugly. I'll be using a 'Y' instead of Tee for a reason I have not discussed yet. This would avoid the unsightly mess at the alternator. So that is part of my objective.

Your argument for avoiding clutter is justified but it's losing ground.

though that's my worst case scenario anyway.im planning on abandoning ship this year and just skip out on the brutal cold and snow altogether if i can help it.park the truck and head south/west.

I can sure relate to that!! I've lived in locations of cold snowy ice winters for most of my life. I've been living in the Pacific Northwest with very long gloomy, (very little sunshine) dismal and wet rainy winters for 13 years and I bought this truck to pull a trailer with the stuff I'm keeping to move far away from here- to where the sun shines and it is warm, very warm! I would prefer the middle of a desert compared to this. When I had my motor-home I considered driving it to Death Valley and park it for 6 months with windows open in hopes of drying it out and killing the mold and dry rot. I hope to be on my way as soon as I can get my truck and trailer all ready and save enough money to move- hopefully by June 2016.