Clutch pedal squeak

[Kevin 007]

Is there any way to lube the clutch pedal assembly in a slantnose? I have sprayed the pivot area under the dash with spray lubes and it lasts for a couple days and then it starts squeaking again. Any suggestions??

Thanks

 

[BDCarrillo]

Try a sprayable lithium grease. It'll last longer than WD40 and that type

 

[riotwarrior]

Pop out pedal assembly and rebush it with replacement bushings from ford...best make sure not wearing into the cast bracket...that would be horrible.

Just sayin...seen it and it's mofougly..

Yer trying to cure a symptom...not the problem...solve the problem and the symptom will go away

 

[Kevin 007]

Yeah good idea, I should check it out and see, what a PITA but still better then having to replace the entire bracket once its done. How often or how prone are the bushings to wear out? My last trucks had double and one with triple the mileage on them and still had original bushings.

 

[riotwarrior]

Yeah good idea, I should check it out and see, what a PITA but still better then having to replace the entire bracket once its done. How often or how prone are the bushings to wear out? My last trucks had double and one with triple the mileage on them and still had original bushings.

How long is a piece of string???????

 

[IDIoit]

the clutch rod that mounts to the master cylinder pushrod is so damn worn out. it looks as if it melted.
sometimes its easier to get a replacement, re-bush it and swap it when you need to.

 

[Mulochico]

When I got my truck the clutch felt way out of adjustment, but being hydraulic, I knew it had to be something else. The hole for the pivot rod on the clutch pedal side was toast. I got a bracket from LMC. Had to remove the seats (I'm 6'4"), and steering column (because it goes through the center of the bracket). Took a bit, but well worth it. The rod pivots on a plastic bushing. I keep and eye on it now. A lot easier to replace a bushing than to replace the bracket.

 

[madpogue]

^^^^^ If that's in reference to the eyelet hole on the pushrod, a replacement pushrod can be had from RockAuto for, like, $6 and change, and they'll ship it for about $2. As for the bushing, you can replace it with a short piece of 1/2"OD x 7/16"ID brass tubing, lasts waaay longer.

If that's in reference to the firewall, there's a dude who makes an "on steroids" version of the stiffener bracket. http://www.terrapinmfg.com/display.php?prod=14 . He's a one-man band, and he mothballed his business for awhile, but it looks like he's active again.

 

[Mulochico]

The rod I was referring to was the one that the pedal mounts to and goes thru the bracket.. The one that the brake pedal pivots on.

 

[madpogue]

That's the pedal box shaft (rods pull and push, shafts rotate). There's actually a whole set of bushings in there, and as mentioned above, you DON'T want any of them wearing all the way through. I've been able to remove the pedal box (bracket) without dropping the column, just by disconnecting the steering u-joint. The steering shaft is a two-piece "telescoping" design, so you can push the top end of the steering shaft in toward the firewall. Creates a gap JUUUUUUUST big enough to snake the pedal box through.

 

[freebird01]

i didnt mothball my business.....i moved.... and its not a beefier version...it is the same as what the factory had offered. 14ga steel.

 

[IDIoit]

mothballing...
that just sounds wrong on many levels....

Jason, you got any of those braces in stock? can we get them in say 1/8"?
how much?

my firewall is going to hell in a handbasket....

 

[freebird01]

I will as of tomorrow. No need for 1/8". They are 14ga (.074) and they tie into the cowl and the trans tunnel. They are uber stiff.

 

[madpogue]

i didnt mothball my business.....i moved.... and its not a beefier version...it is the same as what the factory had offered. 14ga steel.

But it covers a LOT more "real estate" on the firewall than the Ford offering; that's what I meant by "beefier".

mouthballing...
that just sounds wrong on many levels....

Um, I think you need to re-read it.....

 

[IDIoit]

I will as of tomorrow. No need for 1/8". They are 14ga (.074) and they tie into the cowl and the trans tunnel. They are uber stiff.

i will be cutting off the bolt tabs and welding it to the firewall, thats why i wanted it a little thicker.
less chance of warping it.

i know it does not need to be welded. but thats how i will do it.