Cleaning the threads in the block with a bottoming tap is always an important step to getting proper torque on the bolts. AFAIK, ARP only has taps, not dies, but you can get a thread-cleaning bottoming cap (not a thread cutting tap, google it to understand the diff if you don't). You can use a wire wheel to clean up the bolt threads. After cleaning the bolt holes with a tap. blow them out with air, then again with brakecleen and air again until they are sup clean. Then use motor oil on the threads of the bolt. ARP has a great lubricant, but it effects the torque values a little.. I don't know by how much but you could inquire to them if you wanted to use it. Clean threads with a light coating of motor oil is what the original torque specs were written for.
General question to those advocating Hylomar... is there a spray product? I don't see on in the catalog I have.
i respectfully and completely disagree.
as you encounter debris with a tap inside a thread, it can cut the threads.
you do not want to be removing material from the threads.
they do make thread chasers that are not carbide, and will not cut the threads.
if you absolutely have to use a tap, do it by hand, do not use a handle or a wrench.
using a tap on accessory holes isnt a big deal, but something torque specific like head bolts need to be handled with kids gloves.
relapping valves is a great idea however.
all you need is a spring compressor, a drill , lapping compound, and some dye.
if testing the valves with diesel shows that a few are not seating more than you like,
dye the valve and the seat, install the valve with lapping compound and spin the valve on the seat.
when you have a nice shiny metal ring around the seat and the valve, it should seal better.
also check your guides, if you feel that you can throw a hotdog down that hallway, explore other options!
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