Head pull and replace

Hydro-idi

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Hold on. So you replaced the passenger side cylinder head and not the other? Looking at the drivers side head on the rear cylinder, that should have been a clear visual indicator of a valvetrain problem occurring. Like towcat said, your valve guides are toast on that cylinder. Not to be ******* you, but now you will have spent even more money/time on parts and labor than if you would have done it right the first time around. If you find yourself in a time crunch, call up buddies for help and get yourself a rental car & cherry picker. Getting in a hurry while doing engine work will always cost more $ later on down the road. I wouldn't put off replacing that other head because once a valve drops, you will then need to replace an entire engine.
 

Zaggnutt

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I replaced the head that had the gunky rockers on the driver side. The pics of the cylinders are from the driver side. The passenger side is the side that had the rockers that looked like they were dipped in honey... I did not pull the head on that side.

I have the head in my storage unit I just haven't been able to take it apart yet to check guides. There were no broken pieces of valve like in Riot's detonated head video, but I am curious to see if there is obvious wear.
 

Zaggnutt

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I have stripped this truck down to the frame and engine and I was considering a swap with my '94, but the exhaust chuff wasn't solved by the rebuilt head. (on a side note, I found two bad valve guides while disassembling the original head).... Why didn't it fix the exhaust chuff? Is there anything else that could cause this?

The engine cannot be compression tested or leak down tested currently...
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IDIoit

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why cant it be leaked down? its just putting air into the cylinder and finding out where its coming out of.
could be chuffing from a lifter, bad valve spring, fubared rocker....
 

Zaggnutt

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why cant it be leaked down? its just putting air into the cylinder and finding out where its coming out of.
could be chuffing from a lifter, bad valve spring, fubared rocker....


Yeah, you're right I could but I would need to slappy the head back on first. I already have the IP pulled and don't want to mess up the timing so I would need to throw that back on. The driver side head was replaced with a rebuilt one that has 8 new valves and a new guide. Also has new Typ4 springs, seals. Looked clean and neat when I pulled it. The original on the passenger side looks very clean under the valve cover so I am assuming that it is okay.
 

Zaggnutt

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On the first startup after the rebuilt head was installed on the driver side the chuff came back. Without the telltale sooty buildup under the valve cover could the problem still lie in the original head on the passenger side?

If you haven't read all of the thread (or forget because it's so damn old) the front driver side cylinder showed low compression before doing the head work. After the rebuilt was put on I started taking apart the valve assembly on the head I pulled and found bad valves / guides. That's why I am stumped why the rebuilt didn't solve it.
 

Zaggnutt

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This is the driver side (rebuilt head) put maybe 6k on it? These pics were taken in the last couple weeks.
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Passenger side
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riotwarrior

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On the first startup after the rebuilt head was installed on the driver side the chuff came back. Without the telltale sooty buildup under the valve cover could the problem still lie in the original head on the passenger side?

If you haven't read all of the thread (or forget because it's so damn old) the front driver side cylinder showed low compression before doing the head work. After the rebuilt was put on I started taking apart the valve assembly on the head I pulled and found bad valves / guides. That's why I am stumped why the rebuilt didn't solve it.
Without changing both heads you have likely no way to know for certain if it was the head you repaired and installed or the other sides head you did not swap.

You had 2 heads rebuilt correct???

Then for time sake you surely did save however for $$ sake you cost yourself dearly...as well as time..because NOW younhave to do it all over and replace the other head.

Since that means another gasket set and valley...yer in for 2x the parts and 2x the time...now when you replace head two...remove head one...and see if valves are kissing pistons whilst at it.

Chuff could be that new head valves resessed too deep and being lifted off seat when running or...did you replace vavle springs on head 2...if not a weak valve spring....

Seeing as it was a half assed job there is not much to really do except the other half of the ass to complete it correctly.

JM7.3CW Eh.
 

Zaggnutt

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Without changing both heads you have likely no way to know for certain if it was the head you repaired and installed or the other sides head you did not swap.

You had 2 heads rebuilt correct???

Then for time sake you surely did save however for $$ sake you cost yourself dearly...as well as time..because NOW younhave to do it all over and replace the other head.

Since that means another gasket set and valley...yer in for 2x the parts and 2x the time...now when you replace head two...remove head one...and see if valves are kissing pistons whilst at it.

Chuff could be that new head valves resessed too deep and being lifted off seat when running or...did you replace vavle springs on head 2...if not a weak valve spring....

Seeing as it was a half assed job there is not much to really do except the other half of the ass to complete it correctly.

JM7.3CW Eh.

If you're not going to take the time to read the necessary information in the thread to make an educated response than don't waste my time with your "half assed" answer.

The driver side head was replaced in a shop bay in which I had limited time and no help. The compression test and condition of the heads with the valve covers off made it clear that the driver side was bad. In addition, I was replacing a rusty quarter panel on that side as well so I used that side as access. The roll pin was frozen in the driver side head and I could not remove it and destroyed it in the process. In addition, the head gasket was damaged while installing the driver side head so I needed to use the good one for piece of mind so I did not have the gasket for the driver side even if I had the time. This was the first head replacement I have done and it took a long time for me to do it right but I DID do it right with the tools, time, and experience I had so I don't appreciate the judgement or the complete lack of respect to assume that I did anything but EXACTLY what was possible at the time.

For starters, look at the picture in post #48. I don't have to do anything twice. I can scrap the engine tomorrow, but I don't want to do that without giving the ******* thing the benefit of the doubt. I am trying to understand other possible causes of a chuff and if it is possible that it could be in the passenger side head without the telltale sooty buildup. What I am looking for is a simple answer without the extra ********.
 

riotwarrior

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Worn guides do not always show as soot build up.

There is still a good chance of bad guids and a crankkng compression test does not induce near the same forces or issues a running engine sees. At cranking speed the valve has a lot more time to seat and hold pressure than a running engine and the vibrations and forces are much different.

I did mention the new head may have valves recessed to deep and could potentially be pinned open by cam because they are not sitting at spec.

Do not cut into me please as I was not the one who did half a job.

A clean head does not indicate a good head....but the counter ...a dirty sooty head usually indicates a bad head.

For just a few hours more you would have 2 done.

My best guess...which is an educated crap shoot...too deep of valves in fresh head...or worn guide in old one.


JM7.3CW Eh!
 

IDIBRONCO

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I would lean toward another bad guide. If there's enough mileage on the engine to have one guide wore out, then there's enough for another one or 7.
 

Zaggnutt

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why cant it be leaked down? its just putting air into the cylinder and finding out where its coming out of.
could be chuffing from a lifter, bad valve spring, fubared rocker....

I have never pulled a lifter out or inspected it.... I have the driver side head off so I can see it, but what does "good" vs. "bad" look like? What am I looking for?
 

riotwarrior

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I have never pulled a lifter out or inspected it.... I have the driver side head off so I can see it, but what does "good" vs. "bad" look like? What am I looking for?
Remove springs...push valves out 1/8" 0.125" and wiggle....if lots wiggle...got issue....if ZERO wiggle non issue.

DO NOT REMOVE VALVES WITHOUT 1ST MARKING THEM TO CORRESPONDING LOCATION!!!!
 
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