Okay, I give up. What's the truck to this...

[laserjock]

I started into my D60 tonight and well let's just say, it's not going all that well. I've already discovered what I'm pretty sure is a bad pinion bearing. I knew the seal was bad. But that's not my current dilemma.

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How do I take this adapter off? I've got the thing up on a table. I have tried a breaker bar on the lugs but that's really tough to hold and I bowed my bar pretty good with no luck. I can't get the impact in there even with a swivel. Can I knock the lugs out of the front and reach through the holes? Is there a special way to do that without destroying the lugs (I.e the big hammer method)? Is this an adapter or is this the normal hub? I haven't found any markings yet.

Thanks for your help.

 

[83ford]

I need to know to cause my d60 came outta dually


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Never mind

 

[junk]

I would knock the studs out and try an impact through the hole. That is definitely an aftermarket adapter. Worst case I would think you could torch off all the lugs holding the adapter on and replace them. Lugs and nuts can get expensive. But on the other hand may not want to run them if they are all rusted up. Could always just steel the hubs & rotors off your parts truck and put these hubs with the adapter back on it with a set of dually wheels so it still rolls.

 

[laserjock]

I thought about just leaving it all together and replacing them. Technically, this is out of the parts truck. I stuck the d50 under it so it will roll. On the rear diff, I just turned the dually wheels out so I could bolt them on. If I knock the lugs out, are they re-useable? That's not something I've dealt with. I'm going to see if some penetrating oil will help. Maybe a little heat will bring things to my way of thinking. I don't want to do that unless I have to.

 

[FarmerFrank]

Usually when I reuse a stud ill put a dap of lock tite in the shoulder part and drive them down in. Idk if it helps but it makes me feel warm and fuzzy.

 

[franklin2]

I started into my D60 tonight and well let's just say, it's not going all that well. I've already discovered what I'm pretty sure is a bad pinion bearing. I knew the seal was bad. But that's not my current dilemma.

You must be registered for see images attach

How do I take this adapter off? I've got the thing up on a table. I have tried a breaker bar on the lugs but that's really tough to hold and I bowed my bar pretty good with no luck. I can't get the impact in there even with a swivel. Can I knock the lugs out of the front and reach through the holes? Is there a special way to do that without destroying the lugs (I.e the big hammer method)? Is this an adapter or is this the normal hub? I haven't found any markings yet.

Thanks for your help.

I see no evidence of any application of penetrating oil. You need many cans of this stuff when working on these old trucks. Kroil is the best I have ever used, but I am getting ready to make my own concoction of 50% acetone and 50% auto tranny fluid and see how that works. According to the internet it's supposed to work just as good as Kroil.

 

[icanfixall]

Nothing works better than Kroil unless your heating it up and cooling it with kroil. So your not believing this.. Try it once and you will be a convert. Kano Labs that sells many products besides Kroil has a deal. you buy 2 cans of Kroil. If you don't like it return the unused can and keep the used can. Get your money back.. Now how can you beat that deal. You will not send any back this I know.

 

[laserjock]

Franklin, no oil in the pic. Did that after the pic. I've been through several cans.

I'll check out the Kroil. I've seen you guys rave about it.

I soaked them overnight in PB so hopefully it will help. Looks like I have a plan. I'll report back.

 

[junk]

I'd 2nd or 3rd the kroil. Local parts store started carrying it. It works well. It's 16 bucks a can around here though.

Studs should be reusable. To turn the rotors on the hubs you have to remove the studs to get the rotor off the hub. Only issue I've had is sometimes if they ave been removed a few times they don't have the same bite when reinstalled. I like the idea of using loctite on them.

 

[ammocan]

Please check to see if its reverse threaded. I know your referring to the adapter but my lugs were reverse thread and I found out that there were several axles in the 80's with reverse thread on one side. If its not reverse thread I second the penetrating oil and add the suggestion of a torch. I could not even budge my u-bolt nuts till the had penetrating oil and had been blow torched and that was with a 3' breaker bar.

 

[89Laredo]

I soaked them overnight in PB

Better off just ******* on it. That stuff is about on the same level as wd40 for "usefulness".
Get some real penetrating oil and a torch. We use Shaeffers penetro.

 

[Can30Diesel]

I second checking for reverse threading. Otherwise, heat and an impact.

 

[whitehorse]

Sorry fellows but once you try that acetone and tranny fluid you don't want nothing else....its that good...me too on checking for reverse threads

 

[laserjock]

Well, finally got it. Had to enlist the help of a "friend". My trusty 4x4 post and a big piece of pipe.

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No reverse threads. The driver side was cake. Looks like antisieze on that side. Pass side was touch and go with the big bar and cheater pipe.

This sucked but it's done now.

 

[GOOSE]

Double check the threads and use the oxy-acetylene torch. I would heat up the nuts and spray them down a few times, that should loosen them up, then heat them up one final time and they should come off without too much fuss. The proper use of a torch will save the day! I had to change the alternator on a 1991 F150 the other day and the long bolt that goes through the aluminum housing was seized tight. The hot wrench turned a nightmare into a 20 minute job.

Thanks to the poster for the tranny fluid/acetone, gonna try that!