Is Your Engine Sound Consistant...?

HammerDown

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So I'm not the only one experiencing this???

Don't get me wrong, cold starts are immediate, with maybe a slight 'murmur' for a minute till it builds heat.
Seems to run good, pulls fine but, it's just not consistent in engine sounds & idle smoothness :dunno

Odd thing is, prior to swapping out the oe pump and injectors, the engine was day-by-day 'consistent' and actually gave better fuel mileage...around town I'm now stuck at 10 mpg...before, locally it was in the lower teens.

Thanks for the feedback...maybe I'll load-up a tank with Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost and run it on the interstate > HARD! :backoff
 
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Black dawg

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So I'm not the only one experiencing this???

Don't get me wrong, cold starts are immediate, with maybe a slight 'murmur' for a minute till it builds heat.
Seems to run good, pulls fine but, it's just not consistent in engine sounds & idle smoothness :dunno

Odd thing is, prior to swapping out the oe pump and injectors, the engine was day-by-day 'consistent' and actually gave better fuel mileage...around town I'm now stuck at 10 mpg...before, locally it was in the lower teens.

Thanks for the feedback...maybe I'll load-up a tank with Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost and run it on the interstate > HARD! :backoff


My truck does quite a bit of sitting lately, and isnt running the best, but put 10-15000 behind it for a couple hundred miles and it runs like brand new.
 

redneckaggie

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sitting is bad for a truck I would bet on sticky parts as well. I like to keep sta-bil diesel treatment in my truck if I know it will be sitting very long
 

franklin2

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Mine does this, and I have the original injectors and the original pump, with about 148,000 miles on them. I don't run mine much either, but when I do take it on a trip, I notice sometime during the trip the engine seems to "wake up" and has more power and does sound different. If I let it sit around it usually goes back to the way it was.
 

HammerDown

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^^^ but mine doesn't sit, it's my daily driver, but it's all local stop & go...and under 35 mph.
 

redneckaggie

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daily driven and not even 1000 miles a year???? diesels are meant to be ran, if you run it around babying it keeping rpms low and stop and go that is worse on a diesel than redlining in my opinion. I would try running a sea foam treatment in the oil and when you park it one night pop the top cover off of the ip and remove the diesel, wash with b12 or brakeclean, let air out and refill with atf and replace cover, work throttle several times and then fire up and kill after about 5 sec and kill. Let it sit overnight at least.
 

HammerDown

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daily driven and not even 1000 miles a year???? diesels are meant to be ran, if you run it around babying it keeping rpms low and stop and go that is worse on a diesel than redlining in my opinion. I would try running a sea foam treatment in the oil and when you park it one night pop the top cover off of the ip and remove the diesel, wash with b12 or brakeclean, let air out and refill with atf and replace cover, work throttle several times and then fire up and kill after about 5 sec and kill. Let it sit overnight at least.
Why would I want to treat the engine "oil" with anything???
When I changed valve cover gaskets a few years back the heads were spotless! ;Sweet
 

bbjordan

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I am of the opinion that the fuel we are supplied for around $4 a gallon is more or less crap these days.

I agree. I've been running 100% biodiesel in the summer and have had no problems. Now in winter, my son has taken my truck to Prince George BC. for the last two years. Both times he has run into injection pump issues were he's had to do the ATF treatment. I think it is because he uses regular pump (Ultra Low Sulphur) Diesel. He can't run biodiesel because it will gel up and plug the fuel filter. Now this is anecdotal evidence, but...

These injection pumps weren't designed for Low Sulphur Diesel never mind USLD.

Mel has also advised that the price of the Moose pumps are going up because he has noticed more wear on the head and rotor. He speculated that it was because of using WMO, but maybe its just the USLD?
 

88beast

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flogg it take it on a drag strip style run a few times it does work out some kinks with my rig being down for wiring etc lately ive noticed this ive been starting it and hitting redline after it warms up once a week and its getting better the idle is smoother now and that is all it gets till the wiring is finished also temp is not a factor.
 

HammerDown

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I must correct my annual mileage...noticing my Pa. inspection is due this month and calculating mileage written on sticker vs what the odometer shows...last year I put just under 4000 miles on my truck.
That's a fair annual number for the past few years.

I haven't started it in a few days as I've been sick...today I started it, fired right up (as usual)...once it built heat and came-down off cold advance the idle was smooth and the engine noise was very 'tight & quiet.' Tomorrow's engine noise/idle may again be different...this is why I started this thread.

I would like to...perform the ATF treatment. I've read removing the IP top-cover and reinstalling it wrong can cause a RUN AWAY ENGINE > how can I make sure this doesn't happen???
Or...should I just fill the fuel-filter and do it that way?

Will Dextron Mercon-3 be ok to use?

As always, thanks for your feedback, Ray
 
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justinray

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I must correct my annual mileage...noticing my Pa. inspection is due this month and calculating mileage written on sticker vs what the odometer shows...last year I put just under 4000 miles on my truck.
That's a fair annual number for the past few years.

I haven't started it in a few days as I've been sick...today I started it, fired right up (as usual)...once it built heat and came-down off cold advance the idle was smooth and the engine noise was very quiet. Tomorrow's engine noise/idle may again be different...this is why I started this thread.

I would like to...perform the ATF treatment. I've read removing the IP top-cover and reinstalling it wrong can cause a RUN AWAY ENGINE > how can I make sure this doesn't happen???
Or...should I just fill the fuel-filter and do it that way?

Will Dextron Mercon-3 be ok to use?

As always, thanks for your feedback, Ray

When I pulled the upper half Ip cover, I was super nervous about a runaway, but once I got it on, I TRIED to put it on any other way than right and it kept falling back to the correct position, so, not saying its impossible, but it would be difficult. If it does runaway, pull the return line from the fuel pump, and it will die, I did a test prior to starting to see what the best way to kill it fast would be. That was fastest, slowest was pulling fuel lines. And surprisingly, these things will run at idle with only 5 cylinders firing, though it did sound a bit... Different.
 

Wyreth

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I must correct my annual mileage...noticing my Pa. inspection is due this month and calculating mileage written on sticker vs what the odometer shows...last year I put just under 4000 miles on my truck.
That's a fair annual number for the past few years.

I haven't started it in a few days as I've been sick...today I started it, fired right up (as usual)...once it built heat and came-down off cold advance the idle was smooth and the engine noise was very 'tight & quiet.' Tomorrow's engine noise/idle may again be different...this is why I started this thread.

I would like to...perform the ATF treatment. I've read removing the IP top-cover and reinstalling it wrong can cause a RUN AWAY ENGINE > how can I make sure this doesn't happen???
Or...should I just fill the fuel-filter and do it that way?

Will Dextron Mercon-3 be ok to use?

As always, thanks for your feedback, Ray

For the ATF in the filter trick. Ish very simple. Pull your fuel filter, and dump it out into a catchcan. Then fill the filter with new clean ATF (I used the merc 3 as that's what I had on hand) When filling the filter, make sure to only pour into the outer ring of holes, that way your IP is only seeing filtered ATF. Once your filter is full, spin it back on, then start your truck as normal. It takes about 30-45 seconds and you will hear the engine noise mellow slightly when it starts burning the ATF. Even if you don't hear that, shut it down by 45 seconds. Then just let it sit overnight.

That's the "ATF trick." You can also use Diesel Kleen in place of the ATF. I use the atf simply because I have alot of it. =P

As for pulling the top of the IP, you can fashion a hook from a large paperclip. Then use it to make sure the solenoid arm seats where it is supposed to. IF YOU DO THIS, make sure you have a block of plywood 3/4" cut and center drilled to fit over your intake hole. That's the fastest way to kill it in the event of a runaway. Just have your aircleaner off, and jump the solenoid under the hood to start it. Be ready with your plug.

If your careful re-assembling the cover, you won't have a problem. But have the plug ready for the first start just in case.

{edit:} here is Mel's service write up. Down near the bottom of the page is everything you need to know about the Solenoid arm, and runaway prevention if you decide to remove your IP cover.
http://oilburners.net/brian/idi/FuelInjectionServicing.htm
 
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