A discussion of hose clamps (yes, I CAN be that boring).......

[whiteboyslo]

It looks like I managed to puncture my 6 month old lower hose when installing the new radiator, at least that's my guess as to why it won't stop leaking. I haven't removed it yet, but my guess is that I got a bit too crazy with the worm-drive clamps I used. But, it got me thinking. There's gotta be a better way to clamp a hose, right? So, I perused good ol' McMaster-Carr's website and found these:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-hose-clamps/=jdhx1b (Specifically the 'easy to install bolt hose clamp')

It seems these solve a number of issues I have with the worm-drive jobs:

1. You can R&R without having to remove the hose

2. The edges are rolled, which should help ensure the hose doesn't get punctured if I get too crazy with the clamp pressure.

3. There's an actual torque spec listed on the McMaster page, which means I can 'idiot-proof' this install by using a torque wrench. Yes, a torque wrench on a friggin' hose clamp, but hey. I've clearly discovered the consequences.

Any downside to these I'm not seeing, or does anyone have a better style or design they prefer and why?

What'd be REALLY slick is if they had a clamp where the bolt/screw was perpendicular to the clamp. The connection at the radiator end is a bit of a PITA because there's no ideal angle to set it at so you can get a nut driver on it. But, if it pointed straight back, it'd be no worries.

Mike

 

[Jake_IN]

What'd be REALLY slick is if they had a clamp where the bolt/screw was perpendicular to the clamp. The connection at the radiator end is a bit of a PITA because there's no ideal angle to set it at so you can get a nut driver on it. But, if it pointed straight back, it'd be no worries.

Mike

Something like this?

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[Danielle]

When I worked at MB, there was a recall on the power steering cooler lines on the ML classes. The actual procedure was to remove the fancy MB clamp, put on TWO worm clamps, and torque to 5Nm.

A lot of the older techs argued that since it was on a rubber hose, the torque wasn't accurate blah blah

I was apprenticing so I just did what I was told. I do still torque them now though.

 

[whiteboyslo]

Something like this?

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Not quite what I was envisioning, but that'd be a little easier since you could put an open-end wrench on it. I was thinking of something where the bolt head would run back along the length of the hose so that, when you're under the truck, it points straight back and you could get a socket on it easily.

Mike

 

[Coyote_Red]

Something like this?

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I have a passion for hating those things. Seems that you can never get them to come loose so I end up cutting them off with wire cutters.

 

[Jake_IN]

I have a passion for hating those things. Seems that you can never get them to come loose so I end up cutting them off with wire cutters.

X2!!! My diesel ranger had them on all the heater hoses. Needless to say but by the time i got all the clamps off none of them were in any kind of shape to be used again.

 

[FordGuy100]

My truck still has some of them. I hate them as well.

 

[SparkandFire]

I've seen alot of the "Constant Tension" type clamps in industrial use...

http://www.idealclamps.com/catalog/clamps/catalog.php?sid=en&ID=14

They have a bellville spring washer that provides tension during thermal cycling.

The big spring types are good too, but you have to use a new one each time, and it has to be the right size.

The old school worm drive hose clamps are not the way to go anymore, much better technology exists...

 

[riotwarrior]

Not quite what I was envisioning, but that'd be a little easier since you could put an open-end wrench on it. I was thinking of something where the bolt head would run back along the length of the hose so that, when you're under the truck, it points straight back and you could get a socket on it easily.

Mike

These clamps are very nice as they provide a full circumferential clamp with little to no flat spots like worm gear clamps can/do.

For those whom have significant difficulty removing them, back the bolt nearly all the way out, take a large flat blade screw driver and press against the flat spot where the bolt goes into the clamp, provide a good smack on the handle of screw driver forcing the clamp open.

Here I am showing what I mean on a clamp that is tightened up....I was not going to under the clamp for the pic...but you should be able to figure that out. I have never had a problem using this method if the bolt does in fact undo, if however it is rusted POS and won't budge...cut it!

You must be registered for see images attach

JM2CW, but these clamps rock!

 

[franklin2]

I have a passion for hating those things. Seems that you can never get them to come loose so I end up cutting them off with wire cutters.

Years from now people will be putting them back on to win points at auto shows, just like the old mustang and corvette guys do now.

 

[Coyote_Red]

These clamps are very nice as they provide a full circumferential clamp with little to no flat spots like worm gear clamps can/do.

For those whom have significant difficulty removing them, back the bolt nearly all the way out, take a large flat blade screw driver and press against the flat spot where the bolt goes into the clamp, provide a good smack on the handle of screw driver forcing the clamp open.

Here I am showing what I mean on a clamp that is tightened up....I was not going to under the clamp for the pic...but you should be able to figure that out. I have never had a problem using this method if the bolt does in fact undo, if however it is rusted POS and won't budge...cut it!

You must be registered for see images attach

JM2CW, but these clamps rock!

Thanks for the tip. I will have to try it and see how it goes. Sadly Michigan drivers refuse to learn how to drive on sandy winter roads so we pour on more salt than the sea has in it.

Years from now people will be putting them back on to win points at auto shows, just like the old mustang and corvette guys do now.

It is funny how things like this go from loved to hated to required

 

[CDX825]

I'm using all stainless constant torque clamps. They are the best option in my opinion!

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

Sadly Michigan drivers refuse to learn how to drive on sandy winter roads so we pour on more salt than the sea has in it.

amen to that. but it is not b/c of the drivers. it is b/c salt is cheap, especially since Detroit is on a salt mine.

 

[whiteboyslo]

So, I don't know why the link I posted keeps reverting back to the page it does, but the clamp I was referring to is the 'easy to install bolt hose clamp'.

First post edited.

Mike

 

[RLDSL]

absolute best automotive hose clamps Ive ever found in aftermarket are these Gator Clamps edges roll up so they dont cut the hoses , teeth are all on top, but gear mechinism is much higher quality than those sold at industrial supplies that appear similar. The gator clamps are identical to the factory clamps used on Volvo cars that if they are not subjected to excessive ( and I do mean EXCESSIVE ) road salt, NEVER require replacement, even after many hundreds of thousands of miles. I generally keep a handful of each size on hand so whatever teh application they are always in their optimum range to keep shape. Too often folks try to use clamps that are too large and crank them down. just because there are enough teeth doesnt mean the clamp will tighten evenly