hard start problem fix?

[FordGuy100]

That bleeds air out till the filter. Crack all 8 injector lines and have someone crank until fuel comes out. Tighten them down. It should start instantly at that point.

You dont need to see fuel leaks for there to be an air intrusion problem. Changing them out is cheap insurance. And it should only take an hour or two the first time you do it, its fairly straight forward.

 

[Kevin 007]

you can jump out the starter solenoid on the fender well and bleed the schrader at the same time, once that is done crack the injector lines loose and with the KEY ON, crank at hold the throttle wide open till you see fuel coming out around the lines. tighten the lines and try to fire it up.

 

[gdhillon]

O haha makes sense, I guess changing injectors and orings and lines should be done at the same time then?...so its pretty much just unbolt everything take it apart replce with new stuff then put back together?...no 'tricks' to it?

 

[gdhillon]

you can jump out the starter solenoid on the fender well and bleed the schrader at the same time, once that is done crack the injector lines loose and with the KEY ON, crank at hold the throttle wide open till you see fuel coming out around the lines. tighten the lines and try to fire it up.

What do you mean jump starter solenoid?...is that like cranking the starter without turning the key?
so I should bleed the filter?....then your saying to crack injectors (and by crack you mean open them slightly?) and while cranking hold gopedal down?

 

[mobilemech]

no tricks to it, just becareful to not bend the injector lines when you take them off. be sure to lube the o-rings before you put the caps on so that the o-rings don't get cut

 

[gdhillon]

But if im replacing them anyway does it matter?.....so the orings go between the block and injector or line and injector?

 

[mobilemech]

you don't need to hold the pedal down to bleed the injectors. yes crack (slightly open ) the lines

 

[mobilemech]

after taking the steel injector line off, there is a plastic cap w/ soft line on it, this is the return system the o-rings are under the cap on the top of the injector. this cap does not come with the injectors and has to be replaced. this is where cutting an o-ring can happen.

 

[gdhillon]

ok, i pm'd typ4 for the injectors lines and orings...do you know if those things come with caps?....does any1 have a pic of what the orings in the cap looks like....do you recomend putting grease on the oring and cap?
So i would remove the cap (soft line=rubber line?) and then i would see the oring sitting on the injector?

 

[mobilemech]

correct on the soft line. i use vaseline to lube the o-rings. you only need to lube the o-rings. caps should come in a return line kit. yes, when you remove the cap you will see the o-rings

 

[gdhillon]

http://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/140.html

is that the kit?

 

[mobilemech]

that picture is of the injector hard lines. the return line kit is this the caps, o-rings and soft line. typ4 has the return line kit

 

[gdhillon]

Ic, do you know how much his go for?

 

[mobilemech]

he is working on price right now, if you pm"D him, he will get back to you. i do not know price, but his kits are better quality stuff than other kits on the market

 

[GreenDiesel]

yes, that works for bleeding. For the return lines, go get yourself some 1/4" fuel line and a pack of #111 o-rings and give your return system an overhaul.

Be careful removing and installing the plastic injector caps so you dont break them.

Lube the o-rings before installation and replace the squeeze clips with small hose clamps for the return lines.

Also, how long does your WTS light stay on, 20+ seconds is normal for a cold start. If your glow time is less than that, you may have one or more bad glow plugs