hard start problem fix?

gdhillon

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So on new years eve it was about -18C here (-.4F), I had her plugged in for about an hour and she started like she usually does (hard,lots cranking) and drove it around the whole day fine. Then came new years, well it was still the same temp and i plugged it in for half an hour (had to unexpectedly go somewhere), and ofcourse she wouldnt start, I tried cranking her twice then i got that waaah wahh starter/battery dieng noise so i just took another vehicle. Then came yesterday I had it plugged in for an hour i think i tried starting and nothing, then i plugged her in (3 hours) and no start....so then overnight i put trickle chargers on the batteries and plugged it in. And come this morning -3C (26F) she fired right up, like instantly.....so my thoughts are that all i need is new batteries? I guess the sure way to now is charge the batteries on an extremely cold day then try starting......o and when I went to start it to head home for lunch it took a little time so maybe its my alternator?....can i test it with a fluke?
 

mobilemech

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what type of oil are you running? how many miles on the injectors? are the glow plugs working? an hr or so on the block heater is not enough time at that temp. sounds like you definatly need new batteries. i spent 3 years in Fairbanks, AK. with my 93 N/A running 5w40 syn engine oil, syn atf in the ZF5, 75/90 syn in the diffs. new set of injectors and glow plugs before i went to AK. I did a torture test on it just to see if it would start when cold, let it sit at work, not plugged in, at -25F for 12 hrs. went out cycled the glow plugs twice and hit the key, it started, growled and talked dirty to me but did start and stay running. these trucks will do some amazing things when all the systems are working correctly. testing the batteries with a fluke will only give you the voltage in the batteries not the amp load in the battery, if they are more than 3 years old, with the cold in the winter, replace them.
 

gonecrazyi

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Put some group 31s in her. I just put a set in mine and love them. Got them from a refurbisher for 35 apiece. I dont think she has ever cranked so fast. And what's nice is there is a reserve for cranking thatduracraps can't compare to.
 

gdhillon

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Oil is def on my list if things to do, changed plugs about a week ago. I think 10 w50s in it right now. Injectors are also on the list.....this weekend in going to crack them four at a time and crank to see if its air....I meant use the fluke to test the alternator, or is that even possible?

Yes, we recently got a interstate in town I was planning on getting some group 31 s from then. On their site they give a list of years what's that all about?....what did you do to get them to fit? Can you send me some pics?

Was a hard start again this afternoon, I'm thinking its the alternator?

anyway a diy on retrofitting idi to accept group 31s would be sweet :)...hint hint
 
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mobilemech

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the timimg has nothing to do with starting if the cranking speed is slow. you need to fix all the starting issues at the same time: batteries, glow plugs, eng. oil, injectors, IP. all of this needs to work together. the eng. oil is relative to cranking speed as are the batteriers. leaking injectories wont allow for proper IP preasure to fire but that cant happen if the glow plug system isn't working properly. when you induce cold temps, all the starting systems have to work together to make the IDI's happy, if not then you get frustrated owners. timing is important but the other systems are just as important, they all need to work to be happy
 

gdhillon

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Hmm ic, well I find that if I cycle the plugs twice it usually starts right away (today was _5C).....could this mean my controller isn't working properly?....it doesn't do that afterglow tick thing anymore.....I just replaced all the plugs with berus
 

gdhillon

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But if my starting system was up to par and still started hard then it would be timing?.....I'm jw because it fired up good today...I just had to cycle plugs twice
 

mobilemech

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it may be your controller. I've read that there is a afterglow relay, but I haven't seen it or found it. cycleing the GP's twice in the cold is ok, I work in AK. on the North Slope where the temps get down to -50F and even with the trucks plugged in we have to cycle the GP's twice to start because the cold air being brought into the engine.
Timing could be off. how long does it crank before it fires? could be that your return lines are leaking and it is draining off the IP, called air intrusion, cranking has to reprime the system. your issue could be at the start of this condition.
 

gdhillon

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Ic, it wasn't that cold here today...it usually cranks for about ten seconds (below freezing)..if it doesn't start within 15 sec I wait a bit and try again......but in warmer temps (above freezing/just below freezing) it doesn't take as long to get it started
 

mobilemech

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from what you say about the cranking times, I would change the return lines and o-rings
it sounds like air intrusion.
 

gdhillon

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Ok, but its never wet around the injectors....I guess its best just to change them, is it a difficult job? Do the Return lines run from injectors to pump?
 

mobilemech

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air is leaking into the return lines, the o-rings will seal after starting so no fuel leak untill they get really bad. it's not a hard job. the return lines are the 1/4" lines on top of the injectors, the caps have o-rings under them. depending on what acc. you have on your engine and your skills it could take any where from a couple hrs. to all day. you have to remove the injector lines, remove the caps and o-rings then reassemble in the reverse order. then bleed the fuel system to start the engine.
 

gdhillon

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to bleed it I would have someone crank and press on that schraeder valve on filter head? ...until diesel comes out
 

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