Oil pan rot

[Kevin 007]

If you can get it clean enough for brazing (right down to a solvent clean), that would be my choice if JB weld has failed. Brazing seals great!! the capilliry action will draw the material into the cracks. You must watch that you don't get the base metal too hot or you know what will happen. Thats the last thing you need.
Practice on a spare pan or thing stamped steel sheet and you will be fine. Then again I have never seen pan rot before so im just using best judgement here.

 

[bike-maker]

What worked for me in the past; JB weld, a chunk of old beer can, then another layer of JB weld over the top of the whole mess.
But if I had to do it again, I'd go for the fiberglass approach.

 

[Devilish]

You don't have to remove the engine to replace the pan. Unbolt the front cab bolts, the 2 core support bolts and the motor mounts. Lift the engine with a hoist and jack up the cab and put blocks between the cab and frame. I unbolted the pan once on a truck and when I did this procedure the pan fell to the ground after I unbolted the pick up tube.

 

[gunz]

I repaired one for a friend with JB weld. The JB weld prior to mine was done poorly. I drained the oil, used a butane torch after cleaning to pan to remove any residue, then made a light layer of JB weld with a metal patch cformed to that section of the pan over the JB weld. Still holding 4 years later. No leaks.

 

[Diesel_brad]

You don't have to remove the engine to replace the pan. Unbolt the front cab bolts, the 2 core support bolts and the motor mounts. Lift the engine with a hoist and jack up the cab and put blocks between the cab and frame. I unbolted the pan once on a truck and when I did this procedure the pan fell to the ground after I unbolted the pick up tube.

Yeah. Not gonna get into to touching the ready to fall apart rad support

 

[international]

I've done two oil pans this way -

Drain oil. Scrape flaking metal off. Wire brush and spray with break cleaner until very clean. Let dry. Mix "fix it stick" (found in the plumbing dept. at Lowe's) push onto pan, smooth with wet fingers. I've had to use multiple patches to cover 50%+ of a bad pan. Both have lasted well over a year, through two winters and with NO oil leaks.

The first pan I repaired this way had JB Weld flaking off of it.

 

[Diesel_brad]

I'm gonna try brazing it 1st then painting the whole pan with POR15.

I'll get back with results

 

[icanfixall]

If you use brakeclean and then any form of flame welding DON"T. the fumes from the flame after the brakeclean may sicken you... Or worse KILL you. There is some posting about this here recienetly. I had forgotten about the mess brakeclean can cause you after it has been uesed and dried on the metal. Its a great cleaner but just don't use it and then weld on it after use.
Try something called Splashzone. Its a two part epoxy that cures under water easily. Its a two part yellow and black epoxy that becomes green and easy to mix. Its found in most any marine store. Smells bad but works well.

 

[Diesel_brad]

That is the chlorinated brake clean. i use NON chlorinated brake clean when welding

 

[Brimmstone]

I personally use denatured alcohol to clean stuff before welding. It takes a little more work but I feel it is safer.

 

[Diesel_brad]

Well, Just got done brazing it and painting it with POR15

After brazing i sprayed the inside of the pan with brakeclean again. One of my welds was NOT up to par and was seeping. I had to hit it again w more braze. The second time it worked. Let it all cool, wire brushed the hell out of the rest of the pan and put 2 generous coats of POR15 on.

I hate that stuff. I will be wearing it for a week but at least the pan is sealed

 

[typ4]

Laquer thinner works good also, If the pan is off I would sand it inside and epoxy paint the inside. We used to use some electric motor paint called Glyptal for inside engine blocks.

 

[Diesel_brad]

Laquer thinner works good also, If the pan is off I would sand it inside and epoxy paint the inside. We used to use some electric motor paint called Glyptal for inside engine blocks.

I wish I could 0of gotten the pan off, it would of gotten a NEW one. But I had to do what i had to do

 

[towtruckdave]

Good Deal! I am glad it worked and you did not blow up.

Around 10 years ago I had a $50 87' F250 7.3IDI plow truck. I got it for $50 because scrap was low and the oil pan was rotted and repaired, then rotted again. The oil just poured out as you poured it in. The motor mount nuts were all rounded off too.

So being the hillbilly I am, I got traded some TacoBell for a junkyard pan and towed the truck home. I torched the crossmember off, put the good pan on, then stick welded it all back together.

Worked great!

 

[Diesel_brad]

Good Deal! I am glad it worked and you did not blow up.

Around 10 years ago I had a $50 87' F250 7.3IDI plow truck. I got it for $50 because scrap was low and the oil pan was rotted and repaired, then rotted again. The oil just poured out as you poured it in. The motor mount nuts were all rounded off too.

So being the hillbilly I am, I got traded some TacoBell for a junkyard pan and towed the truck home. I torched the crossmember off, put the good pan on, then stick welded it all back together.

Worked great!

Yeah. We got some hacks that will do that around here to new trucks