Front brakes Dragging

['94IDITurbo7.3]

My front bakes seem to be dragging on the truck in my sig.

I have put a rebuild kit in my master cylinder. I put on new callipers on both sides. I put on new brake hoses going to the callipers from the steel line. I put on a new steal line for the front. I greased the slides on the callipers when I put them on. I now have all brand new fluid in the system. The master cylinder is pumping fluid. When i take the tire off and try to spin the rotor it is extremely hard to turn. I know that it is not a wheel bearing issue b/c when the callipers are off the rotor spins just fine. When i put the tire on I mark it @ the 12 o'clock position and spin it with a good deal of force and it only makes it to about 6-7 o'clock. Same thing for both sides.
Tommorow i hope to cut out the gauge thingy for getting the correct adjustment on the pushrod for the booster on the waterjet at school.
I am at a loss as to what could be my problem.

Thanks in advance

 

[flareside_thun]

Not sure if the proportioning valve could cause a similar issue or not....

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

i think the proportioning valve works w/ the rear brakes as far as bias if i remember correctly from what i just learned in school.

 

[franklin2]

Been through this with a Ranger pickup. You need to isolate the problem. The first thing I would do is get setup again to make sure the front brakes are dragging, and then loosen the mounting bolts on the master cylinder and pull it forward. If they release, then your rod coming out of your booster is too long and needs to be shortened, or there is something wrong with the booster.

If the brakes don't release, the next thing to do is loosen the line going into the master cylinder from the front brakes. If they release, then you know the problem is the master cylinder.

If they still don't release, I would go to the proportioning valve(if you have one) and loosen the lines down there and see if they release.

The problem with the Ranger turned out to be the booster. The rod going into the booster from the pedal was rusted and not releasing all the way.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

+1 on checking the push rod for being out of adjustment. I had a Bronco that would "check valve" the front brakes because the rod was too long.

When you crack the bleeders on the front calipers, are you confirming pressure is being trapped?

 

[OLDBULL8]

On your 94 you more than likely have rear wheel ABS, you don't have a proportioning valve on the rear. Open the bleeder on the front brake caliper's, that will relieve any pressure if there is any and let the wheel turn free, may be a light drag on them. If you got the correct MC the link should not have to be adjusted.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

I have 2 lines coming out of the m/c. Correct me if i am wrong but doesn't the front line on the m/c go to the front brakes & the rear line go to the rears. I have a proportioning valve coming off of the rear fitting on the m/c. Does that have anything to do w/ front breaking action?

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

Today when i got home from school i jacked up both front wheels. Then gradually loosened up the nuts that hold the m/c on. i moved the m/c completely away from the booster and i had no change in brake drag.
What does this tell you guys?

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

Open the bleeder on the front brake caliper's, that will relieve any pressure if there is any and let the wheel turn free, may be a light drag on them. If you got the correct MC the link should not have to be adjusted.

When i crack the bleeder do i do so w/o applying the break pedal?

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

Heres a pic of my m/c

 

[nsjames]

When i crack the bleeder do i do so w/o applying the break pedal?

yes.
If the system is holding pressure you will get a spurt, then just the dribble of gravity bleeding.

it's also possible that something is interfereing at the knuckle. I once got the wrong rotors and they were fine until you bolted on the wheel, and then the wheel forced the rotor into the caliper mount.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

When i have the front wheels off & i grabb the wheel studs & try and turn the rotor it is almost impossible to move it. You really have to work to turn the rotor.

 

[Compu Doc]

If it turns out your rebuilding of the MC is bad I'd replace it with a new and not a rebuilt MC. When it comes to brake hydraulics their are only two things I will put in that are rebuilt and that is front calipers and the RABS valve. I've never put a rebuilt MC or rebuilt the MC my self on any vehicle I owned. The same goes for wheel cylinders. They were always new. The cylinder part of an MC could be slightly out of round and no rebuild kit is going to make it perfectly round.

Jut my .02

 

[OLDBULL8]

There was a change in the thickness and offset of the rotors, cant remember the year the change was made, also the calipers were different. Could it be you have the wrong calipers? Anyone remember the year of changes? IIRC the pads were different thickness also. Ford did some strange things with there half year changes. 94.5 & 99.5

 

[Compu Doc]

There was a change in the thickness and offset of the rotors, cant remember the year the change was made, also the calipers were different. Could it be you have the wrong calipers? Anyone remember the year of changes? IIRC the pads were different thickness also. Ford did some strange things with there half year changes. 94.5 & 99.5

I know in 91 their was a change in Calipers. Whenever I bought calipers I had to look at the manufacture date. Early 91 takes a different caliper than late 91 but I think the only difference was the material of the pistons. The early 91 had aluminum while the late 91 had Bakelite pistons. Either would fit with no problems.