So what did you do with your truck today?

[Jesus Freak]

I'm STOKED @1mouse3 it's probably still going to be a while, but it's going to be sure something to see that thing light off!

 

[Nero]

About darn time! I was just thinking about your thread the other day, since we hadn't seen an update

 

[XOLATEM]

I was just thinking about your thread the other day,

Same here...twin turbos...cooler'n all-get-out...

 

[tbowker]

Get a set of these Tail Lights, the Reverse wraps around to the side. really give you more light at night. Especially if you throw in a set of LED Bulbs.
I did a quick search and this came up.

I grabbed a few set from PNP for my 86. like hem better as they are smoother than the 86.

https://www.carparts.com/details/Ford/F-250/Replacement/Tail_Light/1990/XLT_Lariat/SET-TRI165E.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=20182746655&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA67CrBhC1ARIsACKAa8SjH-UfzTeGkIKX-92w_fq39V8IU6HGmlngz2N8uBSyeSUkwtyXzGsaAsXAEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Goat

I just saw this today. Thank you for that info. I like the look of those. You always seem to post the best links.

 

[Old Goat]

I picked up several of these tail lights at PNP.
When I installed them and then added the LED reverse lights, it was like, I can finally see in the dark backing up. Nice to have some light out to the sides.

On that link I posted, i put in my 86 year truck, and they say they do not fit. That`s BS. These should fit 80 all the way up to the 90`s something when ever they changed the rear lights with the body change.

Goat

 

[ihc1470]

Lost the tail lights last night so dug into that today. Headlamp switch connector had melted terminal. Fuel gauge and selector was not working so while I had dash apart looked into that. The selector switch I had gotten of EBay must not be correct for a diesel as it blew the fuse every time I switch the tank. I had picked up another switch at the parts store awhile back so installed it and that seemed to take care of that issue. Jumped the 20 ohm resistor for the oil gauge and now need to replace the sender.

Need to make a couple of brackets to fix broken plastic on the dash. Headlamp switch needs reinforcement and right side of dash I suspect the brace is broke as the dash is all over the place on the farm roads I drive. Typical Ford issues from the late 80's early 90's I guess.

Just finished up repairing the front brakes, rebuilt calipers and new rotors as the left side was cracked in two locations.

Next up on the list is changing all the coolant hoses, block heater and replacing the antifreeze. Picked up this truck about 2 months ago and it was a local truck but I have no idea what sort of maintenance it has had over the years. I know the upper hose is original to the truck, feels and looks good but time to go.

Sometime before spring I plan on dumping the fluids out of all the boxes and starting with new. I suspect they are probably all factory fills.

Guess that was an honest days and maybe couple of days work.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Lost the tail lights last night so dug into that today. Headlamp switch connector had melted terminal. Fuel gauge and selector was not working so while I had dash apart looked into that. The selector switch I had gotten of EBay must not be correct for a diesel as it blew the fuse every time I switch the tank. I had picked up another switch at the parts store awhile back so installed it and that seemed to take care of that issue. Jumped the 20 ohm resistor for the oil gauge and now need to replace the sender.

Need to make a couple of brackets to fix broken plastic on the dash. Headlamp switch needs reinforcement and right side of dash I suspect the brace is broke as the dash is all over the place on the farm roads I drive. Typical Ford issues from the late 80's early 90's I guess.

Just finished up repairing the front brakes, rebuilt calipers and new rotors as the left side was cracked in two locations.

Next up on the list is changing all the coolant hoses, block heater and replacing the antifreeze. Picked up this truck about 2 months ago and it was a local truck but I have no idea what sort of maintenance it has had over the years. I know the upper hose is original to the truck, feels and looks good but time to go.

Sometime before spring I plan on dumping the fluids out of all the boxes and starting with new. I suspect they are probably all factory fills.

Guess that was an honest days and maybe couple of days work.

If you don't know about it, look into putting relays in your headlight circuit. The regular switch can't handle the amps from the batteries and will cause problems. I rarely drive at night, but when I do I drive with confidence now ,thanks to my relays, that my headlights won't start spontaneously turning on and off!

SERIOUSLY WARNING!! WARNING!!! for any of y'all that haven't added relays to your headlight circuits, please do!

 

[nelstomlinson]

The relays can also make your headlights just a bit brighter, if you use adequate wire.

 

[tbowker]

If you don't know about it, look into putting relays in your headlight circuit.

I haven't had this issue but.... pictures please.

 

[Jesus Freak]

I haven't had this issue but.... pictures please.

I'll try to tomorrow. After your lights have been on for a bit the circuit breaker in the headlight switch will start opening randomly and cause your lights to all of a sudden start turning on and off and there basically nothing that you can do. It is crazy and will scare you silly.

 

[DrCharles]

Yesterday I was about to take a 40 mile drive to the nearest Lowe's... 7 miles from home at 60 mph, the rear driveshaft decided to take its U-joints and go home! One cap was still securely bolted to the diff yoke, but the other was dangling from one bolt.So I coasted to a safe stopping place, locked the front hubs, and drove back home in FWD (With a stop to pick up the shaft from the middle of two-lane US 160!)

Today I got the U-joints at O'Reilly (might as well change both while it's out!)... supposed to be the same "Precision" brand, but the second box was plain white with that p/n on it. Good thing I looked in that box because it was the wrong size. Caps were 1.124" instead of 1.188"! Fortunately they had another in stock that was identical to the first.

I had a little trouble installing them because one cap on each joint had a zerk fitting. There were three identical snap rings and one that was supposed to clear the fitting. It did not. So I took a carbide burr to the ends of the squeezy part, then it fit. Nothing like Chinese quality control

Anyway, I was lucky that the Mg-alloy housing on the t-case wasn't beat to hell, nor anything under the truck except a dent in the muffler. One new oil seal, a quart of Valvoline Transfer Case Fluid, and two new U-joint straps later, it's back on the road.

Now for the worst part - it was self-inflicted! I thought the bolt must have pulled through the strap somehow... but no trace of that on the strap which was somewhat bent. I concluded that when I replaced the oil pump and bracket on the t-case last spring, I had missed one of the strap holes with its bolt (the one out of sight at an angle behind the driveshaft) So it was sitting there just pinched by the bolt head for quite a few miles, until the cap managed to get loose. Sigh.

 

[Jesus Freak]

I haven't had this issue but.... pictures please.

I'm not an electrical guy, another member was gracious enough to send me a discription of what to do. If you understand relays, basically you figure out what wire is high beam and low beam and use one relay for high and one for low beam. Connect the hot wire of the relay to power, ground wire to ground, signal in wire to the high or low beam wire, and the signal out to both headlights. I hope that kinda makes sense, maybe one of the other guys can clarify any muddiness.

 

[hacked89]

If you don't know about it, look into putting relays in your headlight circuit. The regular switch can't handle the amps from the batteries and will cause problems. I rarely drive at night, but when I do I drive with confidence now ,thanks to my relays, that my headlights won't start spontaneously turning on and off!

SERIOUSLY WARNING!! WARNING!!! for any of y'all that haven't added relays to your headlight circuits, please do!

The relays prevent the load through the headlight switch - recommended for everyone.

 

[KansasIDI]

I'm not an electrical guy, another member was gracious enough to send me a discription of what to do. If you understand relays, basically you figure out what wire is high beam and low beam and use one relay for high and one for low beam. Connect the hot wire of the relay to power, ground wire to ground, signal in wire to the high or low beam wire, and the signal out to both headlights. I hope that kinda makes sense, maybe one of the other guys can clarify any muddiness.

I need to do this mod. I thought it’d be sweet to add daytime running lights, so that when the key is on, lights are on, when switch is in the ‘off‘ position. I think Canadian spec vehicles, at least newer ones, are that way. 2019 and newer vehicles in the US have DRL, but headlights instead of marker lights.

Maybe better still would be to get a daylight sensor, and have headlights that automatically turn on when it gets dark. The pre 2019 trucks at work have that, I like it.

And the headlights staying on for a little bit after shutting the key off, is also something that I like.

Lots of ideas, not sure which path is best to take. Maybe should just keep it simple…

Daytime running lights are supposed to be safer, helps to be seen. I am usually pretty conscious about turning lights on in anything less than ideal visibility, but I’d spend money on an automatic system.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

I could see that causing issues with how much power it requires to start these trucks in the really cold.

When I park my truck for the night I always let it run for a little bit with all the accessories off before I shut it down to make sure that the batteries are fully charged.

I definitely wouldn't want the headlights on while trying to cold start a powerstroke.

James