Haven`t been documenting what I have been doing with the old girl. But she has been down too long doing a simple Clutch R&R.
Decided to R&R the Rear main Seal, then remove the old Speedie Ring and install the new one on the Crank.
Messed up a couple seals...(OK Iam a DA) but finally got er done.
Bought one Felpro that has the plastic piece to help slide the Seal over the Crank. Read some use a plastic Drink cup.
Not much of a rubber lip in this one for the Crank to ride on, looked kind on chincy
Open the box a little piece of paper falls out and says, this seal won`t fit if a Speedie is used. Once box is opened, can not return, that`s special.
There is that paper gasket for the rear plate to seal against the engine, this is not available any where I have searched except with one of the Felpro seal kits.
I used a Manilla Folder, and traced it on both sides of it, so if I need another one down the road, I can use it to trace onto a piece of Gasket material.
Got the FW installed, Pressure plate and Disk.
used new FW Bolts from
www.russrepair.com come with red loc-tite on them.
Replaced the PP Bolts with new ARP bolts, and Blue Lock-tite.
Had my Wife help me with the Floor Jack. Rolled it under the truck, set FW on it and she raised it up.
Placed an alignment bolt at 12 O`clock position on Crank. One blank spot on Crank not drilled and one hole on FW that is smaller than the other 8. When you figure out where it will line up, circle the FW hole with a sharpie, and set it at 12 position and raise up.
Get a long bolt at the HW store, cut off head and grind a slot for the alignment pin.
Put in a couple bolt to hold it so it wont fall off onto you. remove Jack.
Same with PP, use Jack. Just a little more finagling around to hold it in place, get 2 bolts started and keep the spline tool centered.
Bell Housing, once I got the 2 alignment pins lined up it went right on. 6 bolts hold it on, 2 short one`s at the bottom.
Stabbing the trans. (T-19).
be sure to install Throw out bearing, grease up shaft and splines. not too much on splines.
I could get the trans about inch n half or so from the BH. Picked up a piece of All Thread, cut 4 pieces 3" long, cut slot in end for a Screw Driver. Screw then in, place a washer and your Nut. Slowly tighten ea one and she came right together.
Remove one alignment pin at a time and replace bolts with Blue Lock-tite.
Then it is a matter to get the trans X mount in place, and the Transmission rubber mount. Bolt it to the X mount, get all your bolt in, leave them loose till you get the trans aligned up with the rubber mount, and get the 2 bolts threaded into the trans.
The 2 curved pieces of the X Mount that bolt to the top of the Frame, the bolts are metric, so it seems. 15mm for bolt head and 19mm socket for the nut.
Pass side not much room between cab floor and bolt, Guess the cab mounts are trashed out. Drivers side bit more room.
Looks like that is another project down the road.
Picked up new bolts yesterday for the X Mount, other people been working on this truck the 28 years before I bought it 10 yrs ago. different nuts, bent washers etc... so time to just replace them.
Have the DL reconnected, and now get the Slave and Fork installed.
Bought
www.russrepair.com new clutch braded steel line, suppose to make it simpler to bleed the air out. We`ll see.
The Slave and MC are metal I picked up from O`Really`s. Most are Plastic.
Once this storm settles down I can get back to finishing up with this simple long drawn out project.
Goat