Self oil burning

[Booyah45828]

My project has stalled. In order for the pintaux nozzle to work, the idle jet has to be pointed at the glow plug, and how a normal idi injector is spun to be tightened doesn't really allow for that. I've got an idea in my head that would allow it to work, and I've found engines overseas that run a pintaux nozzle that I could source nozzles from, but none of the vendors that sell the nozzle will take any measurements of the nozzle for me. I don't want to start machining injector bodies without being certain the nozzle will work in it. I feel that it will eventually lead me to buying a dozen or so different nozzles to try out and see for myself, I just haven't gotten to the point of wanting to eat a few hundred dollars in nozzles and shipping to get them here.

 

[CBRF3]

I have these marine nozzels and curiosity had me inspect what the difference was...

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First I see this port dose not line up and not sure if is a issue.

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For the port to line up this pin would need redrilled in the nozzel

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As for needle pin being shorter, this spacer would need drilled for the spring seat to pass.

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It dose assemble and has the nozzel tight, just the extra length of the raised shank would keep a washer from seating. It will screew down into the head so the tip size is not a issue.

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odd yours are a bit different than ones i have I am wondering if maybe the ones they sent you are wrong will have to get pics of the injector nozzles I have here I dug some out that I need to machine soon mine do not have the stepdown like the ones you got also mine are much bigger around that is just odd as for where the the end of the center needle sets in the housing being a slight bit longer mine are only a hair longer and my fuel ports line up perfectly also my mid plate between thev nozzle and injector body has 2 ports the left one is used on our bodies as is the one on my nozzles both the old ones and the new ones.

I also wanted to point out as the Booyah45828 mentions to run these you have to delete the glowplugs physically or they will delete themselfs into a piston

 

[1mouse3]

odd yours are a bit different than ones i have I am wondering if maybe the ones they sent you are wrong will have to get pics of the injector nozzles I have here I dug some out that I need to machine soon mine do not have the stepdown like the ones you got also mine are much bigger around that is just odd as for where the the end of the center needle sets in the housing being a slight bit longer mine are only a hair longer and my fuel ports line up perfectly also my mid plate between thev nozzle and injector body has 2 ports the left one is used on our bodies as is the one on my nozzles both the old ones and the new ones.

I also wanted to point out as the Booyah45828 mentions to run these you have to delete the glowplugs physically or they will delete themselfs into a piston

Yes is odd and guess will try returning the ones I got, since they needle dose not extend past the spacer to get to the spring. I will be physically deleting the plugs, just need to think on it.

 

[CBRF3]

Yes is odd and guess will try returning the ones I got, since they needle dose not extend past the spacer to get to the spring. I will be physically deleting the plugs, just need to think on it.

as I said before give me some time I will go thru all my stuff as I can I know I got a bunch already machined ready to go like 75+ of them as buying in bulk and doing the the machining all at once was most efficient route to go. I bought like 150+ of these nozzles and machined most of them myself on a lathe as soon as I got them and got them tested for match up before I did any major amount of machining in short I did 1 or 2 sets and then tested them for functionality of course glow plugs were already deleted if I remember correctly I had to retard the injection pump gear 1 tooth to get it delayed enough as these injector nozzles bump the timing up quite a bit due to better fuel atomization / burning and faster flame front. I also bumped pop pressure to 1850psi from 1750psi 1900psi had better performance but I felt was a bit to much stress on the injection pump.

I want to also point out going from a fairly new set of BB injectors not rebuilt new old stock which I tested pop pressure and such also I got like 2-5 MPG increase in fuel mileage and my power down low was much better and starting was much easier even cold starts were super easy I will admit I lost some power up top around 2500+rpm but the down low power increased dramatically throttle response was crazy responsive to point was almost hard to drive as a clutch till got used to it slightest throttle the thing wanted to jump and run.

 

[CBRF3]

as I said before give me some time I will go thru all my stuff as I can I know I got a bunch already machined ready to go like 75+ of them as buying in bulk and doing the the machining all at once was most efficient route to go. I bought like 150+ of these nozzles and machined most of them myself on a lathe as soon as I got them and got them tested for match up before I did any major amount of machining in short I did 1 or 2 sets and then tested them for functionality of course glow plugs were already deleted if I remember correctly I had to retard the injection pump gear 1 tooth to get it delayed enough as these injector nozzles bump the timing up quite a bit due to better fuel atomization / burning and faster flame front. I also bumped pop pressure to 1850psi from 1750psi 1900psi had better performance but I felt was a bit to much stress on the injection pump.

I want to also point out going from a fairly new set of BB injectors not rebuilt new old stock which I tested pop pressure and such also I got like 2-5 MPG increase in fuel mileage and my power down low was much better and starting was much easier even cold starts were super easy I will admit I lost some power up top around 2500+rpm but the down low power increased dramatically throttle response was crazy responsive to point was almost hard to drive as a clutch till got used to it slightest throttle the thing wanted to jump and run.

I think I purchased my injector nozzles in bulk off aliexpress cannot remember it was many years ago.

 

[1mouse3]

as I said before give me some time I will go thru all my stuff as I can I know I got a bunch already machined ready to go like 75+ of them as buying in bulk and doing the the machining all at once was most efficient route to go.

Sorry about trying to have two cards in play, Im not going to try getting another set. The past year has been stressing me out trying to have a good running engine. It started with a questionable rebuilt short block being the starting point since was what I found at the time, had to salvage a core engeine to get heads. So went about porting the heads as something calming while I thought about what was going to be done about it, those heads ended up having cracks so was forced to get remain ones. The machinist that checked the heads, keep pushing me off about decking the block along with checking the bore. So was tempted to assemble and send it, but was talked into doing it right, To make the bore not questionable it would need bored over, so got the parts in order to make it equivalent to the turbo block. This gave me reason to dig up thoughts on the twin turbos and gave me something else to do so can let time waste away. Driving the f100 may be calming but fuel cost is not viable to just ride off into the sunset for no good reason. I hope this other machinist is not going to play me, so can get what I have bored and balanced. As for the manifolds, there starting to look like something.

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I want to also point out going from a fairly new set of BB injectors not rebuilt new old stock which I tested pop pressure and such also I got like 2-5 MPG increase in fuel mileage and my power down low was much better and starting was much easier even cold starts were super easy I will admit I lost some power up top around 2500+rpm but the down low power increased dramatically throttle response was crazy responsive to point was almost hard to drive as a clutch till got used to it slightest throttle the thing wanted to jump and run.

Lost of some power up top around 2500+rpm would not be a issue if gearing is set for running rpm to be set in the 1500-2400rpm range, so I see them as having benefits with greater weight. Also having lose above that range would keep me out that upper area since would start to strugle up there. The f100 is like that allready with throttle being sensitive, I have no issue with that. If like that will want to get traction bars for my rear axle so dose not twist up the springs. Had a issue with the f100 skipping to lou so chained the axle up to keep it put, its a high maintenance option that Im not repeating.

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[CBRF3]

Sorry about trying to have two cards in play, Im not going to try getting another set. The past year has been stressing me out trying to have a good running engine. It started with a questionable rebuilt short block being the starting point since was what I found at the time, had to salvage a core engeine to get heads. So went about porting the heads as something calming while I thought about what was going to be done about it, those heads ended up having cracks so was forced to get remain ones. The machinist that checked the heads, keep pushing me off about decking the block along with checking the bore. So was tempted to assemble and send it, but was talked into doing it right, To make the bore not questionable it would need bored over, so got the parts in order to make it equivalent to the turbo block. This gave me reason to dig up thoughts on the twin turbos and gave me something else to do so can let time waste away. Driving the f100 may be calming but fuel cost is not viable to just ride off into the sunset for no good reason. I hope this other machinist is not going to play me, so can get what I have bored and balanced. As for the manifolds, there starting to look like something.

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Lost of some power up top around 2500+rpm would not be a issue if gearing is set for running rpm to be set in the 1500-2400rpm range, so I see them as having benefits with greater weight. Also having lose above that range would keep me out that upper area since would start to strugle up there. The f100 is like that allready with throttle being sensitive, I have no issue with that. If like that will want to get traction bars for my rear axle so dose not twist up the springs. Had a issue with the f100 skipping to lou so chained the axle up to keep it put, its a high maintenance option that Im not repeating.

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I don't think you will need track bars or anything but just be aware when you put the DI type injector nozzles in that these motors liven up down low takes some time to get used to but trust me its a big difference as soon as I get time and get to mess with the lathe I will either find my already machined set or machine a set down but I have alot on my plate at sec. I work for the rail road so am litterally working 365 days a year and on call 24/7 with only 8-10 hrs rest time before being put back on board for call in so my time is very iffy at moment and i cannot schedule anything trust me my GF is like how do you do this kind of work yet still have anytime to do anything yet I make time for her during the week any time I can and sacrifice sleep / rest time to do so.

 

[1mouse3]

I don't think you will need track bars or anything but just be aware when you put the DI type injector nozzles in that these motors liven up down low

You sure? I have F-super springs all around with 4in blocks in the rear.

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It dose take a bit of weight to get her to ride like a cadillac.

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[1mouse3]

I work for the rail road so am litterally working 365 days a year and on call 24/7 with only 8-10 hrs rest time before being put back on board for call in so my time is very iffy at moment and i cannot schedule anything trust me

I do and I need not rush things to fruition. As in past me should had done the valve guide for the 6.9 when heads where off, not take it as road kill and send it. That has throne things out of order and the state of the table is in now shables. What happened to the parts store rebuilding engines on site? Things arnt as they where and now the charade is collapsing. A care free state is in conflict with the lack of supply. Lack of supply plus lack of machine shops, is a state where that in hand should be cherished. In turn see another month or more before I can see a block bored and balenced. I need to find care that has been lost along time ago, this truck is means to the future and should not squander it. Thanks for pointing out what I have set in motion has a issue, thing is cant stop it and may cause the past to repeat. To experiment with piston bowl and precup port is not viable right now, so will be delicate with her like its a piece of china. The parts for the build say to keep it under 2500rpm, both the turbos and injectors I will get from you when that time comes to pass. Since this will be specked as such, pushing a underdrive is out the window and will hunt out the 460 zf. So will go with 3.75 gear for now, this would mean keeping it off the interstate. I know backroad to get down to my house, so wont be a issue just that it will take longer. Slow and steady wins the race is what Iv been told many times, this truck is really trying to drive that into my head.

Close T19 with 35in and 3.75
RPM    1450      1850     2400
1       10        13       16
2       17        21       27
3       28        36       47
4       40        51       66

 

[CBRF3]

I do and I need not rush things to fruition. As in past me should had done the valve guide for the 6.9 when heads where off, not take it as road kill and send it. That has throne things out of order and the state of the table is in now shables. What happened to the parts store rebuilding engines on site? Things arnt as they where and now the charade is collapsing. A care free state is in conflict with the lack of supply. Lack of supply plus lack of machine shops, is a state where that in hand should be cherished. In turn see another month or more before I can see a block bored and balenced. I need to find care that has been lost along time ago, this truck is means to the future and should not squander it. Thanks for pointing out what I have set in motion has a issue, thing is cant stop it and may cause the past to repeat. To experiment with piston bowl and precup port is not viable right now, so will be delicate with her like its a piece of china. The parts for the build say to keep it under 2500rpm, both the turbos and injectors I will get from you when that time comes to pass. Since this will be specked as such, pushing a underdrive is out the window and will hunt out the 460 zf. So will go with 3.75 gear for now, this would mean keeping it off the interstate. I know backroad to get down to my house, so wont be a issue just that it will take longer. Slow and steady wins the race is what Iv been told many times, this truck is really trying to drive that into my head.

Close T19 with 35in and 3.75
RPM    1450      1850     2400
1       10        13       16
2       17        21       27
3       28        36       47
4       40        51       66

Kool the moto with our engines / trucks in general is slow and steady wins the race and allows us to compete another day you race our motors you tend to have issues remember our motors were designed for reliability and to not be fussy about fuel quality and such also our motors do most theyre power down low in the RPM's HP is ability to accelerate torque is ability to do work so if can keep it in the torque curve these things will amaze you HP is not everything Torque is so you should target a driving RPM in the torque curve whether towing or not as this is where our motors EGT's stay balanced along with our best fuel efficiency and power when you get oput of the torque curve our EGT's often spike no matter what its because of our engines fundamental design.

The reason torque is king is our trucks are heavy and as aero dynamic as a brick it takes raw torque to propel our truck down the road not HP with a diesel torque is king with a gasser because of theyre RPM's outside of some big blocks HP is king diesel HP and Torque is very different from a gasser just so you know a diesel and gasser with same torque and HP the gasser will out accelerate the diesel but under load the diesel will get up to speed with less deceleration going up hills and such and the diesels fuel efficiency for towing a load is often much higher there is alot at play and its not easily explained but diesel fuel has more BTU's / energy in it by volume also diesels because theyre all fuel driven without a throttle butterfly they also don't lose much volumetric efficiency on decel / accell and idle because its not fighting to breathe like a gasser a diesel generally has all the air it can ever want and doesn't need to fight for it unlike a gasser we could get into the way a diesel engine also does other things that make it much more efficient but it is long and drug out.

I still do not believe will need track bars your not racing it track bars will only benefit if are launching from a dig and well then you risk alot of other issues with our trucks because of theyre weight and well our motors don't do well with doing this I know I learned hard way ( they load up governor kicks in and it gives them the fuel / beans then you lose traction and boom motor goes pop because governor cannot react quick enough to defuel ) a general rule of thumb get them rolling clutch full release then power on till shift and rinse repeat and you shouldn't have a issue even the stupid build I did years ago with 30psi boost and water methanol injection and propane injection had no issues needing track bars that truck / turbo had turbo lag out the wazzoo but when turbo came on it was scary imagine dually going down road rolling coal then suddenly dancing side to side roasting the tires no wheel hop it had no happy balance it had roal coal then stupid it was violent / scary no idea the power output but it lasted a total of 3 months and about 10,000 miles before rings were in oil pan and head gasket hanging out side of heads I was honestly a bit scared to hammer it it was to violent when power came on so I babied it and it only lasted 10,000 miles and it was built to the hilt overkill no expense was spared.

 

[1mouse3]

I still do not believe will need track bars your not racing it track bars will only benefit if are launching from a dig and well then you risk alot of other issues with our trucks because of theyre weight and well our motors don't do well with doing this I know I learned hard way ( they load up governor kicks in and it gives them the fuel / beans then you lose traction and boom motor goes pop because governor cannot react quick enough to defuel ) a general rule of thumb get them rolling clutch full release then power on till shift and rinse repeat and you shouldn't have a issue

So basically, dont drop the cluch and stab the throttle. Just bring the clutch to engaement then feather out from there, followed with feathering into the throttle. So basicly a slow row through the gears lettting her do the work. Would there be issues if I down shift to drag my feet?

even the stupid build I did years ago with 30psi boost and water methanol injection and propane injection had no issues needing track bars that truck / turbo had turbo lag out the wazzoo but when turbo came on it was scary imagine dually going down road rolling coal then suddenly dancing side to side roasting the tires no wheel hop it had no happy balance it had roal coal then stupid it was violent / scary no idea the power output

Fair point and my springs are probully equal to or grater than those of that dually, so they are not likely to twist into a pretzel and cause issue. The f100 likes to dance but adding two more wheel to the equation, that impresive.

The reason torque is king is our trucks are heavy and as aero dynamic as a brick it takes raw torque to propel our truck down the road not HP with a diesel torque is king with a gasser because of theyre RPM's outside of some big blocks HP is king diesel HP and Torque is very different from a gasser just so you know a diesel and gasser with same torque and HP the gasser will out accelerate the diesel but under load the diesel will get up to speed with less deceleration going up hills and such

This should be 2ton and above 1ton altho is measher in buckets from a backhoe, she bearly broke level with this weight. Im seeing that a diesel likes work, she was happy to move this slowly. To move this weight around would want to get the overload tabs for the frame, so can use the full potential of these f-super springs. Yea a scale might not like me running this weight.

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[CBRF3]

So basically, dont drop the cluch and stab the throttle. Just bring the clutch to engaement then feather out from there, followed with feathering into the throttle. So basicly a slow row through the gears lettting her do the work. Would there be issues if I down shift to drag my feet?




Fair point and my springs are probully equal to or grater than those of that dually, so they are not likely to twist into a pretzel and cause issue. The f100 likes to dance but adding two more wheel to the equation, that impresive.





This should be 2ton and above 1ton altho is measher in buckets from a backhoe, she bearly broke level with this weight. Im seeing that a diesel likes work, she was happy to move this slowly. To move this weight around would want to get the overload tabs for the frame, so can use the full potential of these f-super springs. Yea a scale might not like me running this weight.

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no simply let clutch out get to second gear with clutch fully engaged then you can pretty much mash it but dont rely on the governor to shift keep it in the 2500-2800 rpm then shift if traction breaks loose let out of the throttle or feather it and don't rely on the governor to save you these motors have a mechanical governor inside the injection pump they see enough load they dump more fuel but won't defuel quick enough if the tires do break loose in short you risk making the internal motor parts external parts rely on your right foot and common sense and watch your pyrometer.

PLZ don't get me wrong I have done tons of burnouts with these trucks / motors watch your pyrometer like a hawk 2nd coolant temp and if have it oil temp and if are running a automatic trans watch trans temp and after let idle for a while to kool down or take it for a mild drive to let everything cooldown I am not telling you you can't or its not possible just giving you a heads up as your playing with a different beast than I believe you are used to.

Dumping the clutch on our motors is really bad on the clutches they like to go boom and take the bell housing of trans out and well the transfer cases dont like it either not to mention carrier bearings or drive shafts our difs if are running the sterling 10.25 / 10.50 or dana 70 / 80 are pretty well bullet proof and will take a beating but those other parts not so much .

Here soon I need to get old rusty out and running again a old rat rod I built using a 7.3 idi and HX40 super and built C6 transmission along with alot of other custom things including propane injection that thing has done so many burnouts and such its not even funny I have beat on it for years and done alot of crazy stuff with it I estimate it around 275WHP minus the propane injection that adds a unknown amount of power never tested it but I can tell you when you hit the switch it jumps and runs like a scalded dog .

 

[1mouse3]

no simply let clutch out get to second gear with clutch fully engaged then you can pretty much mash it but dont rely on the governor to shift keep it in the 2500-2800 rpm then shift if traction breaks loose let out of the throttle or feather it and don't rely on the governor to save you these motors have a mechanical governor inside the injection pump they see enough load they dump more fuel but won't defuel quick enough if the tires do break loose in short you risk making the internal motor parts external parts rely on your right foot and common sense and watch your pyrometer.

Dumping the clutch on our motors is really bad on the clutches they like to go boom and take the bell housing of trans out and well the transfer cases dont like it either not to mention carrier bearings or drive shafts our difs if are running the sterling 10.25 / 10.50 or dana 70 / 80 are pretty well bullet proof and will take a beating but those other parts not so much .

Got it, dont look at the china cabnet funny.

 

[1mouse3]

Found a plan b for a transmission if a dodge nv4500 is found before a 460 zf, the ratio is close to same between them.

nv4500 adaptor

6.9 nv4500 swap

390 nv4500 swap

 

[CBRF3]

Found a plan b for a transmission if a dodge nv4500 is found before a 460 zf, the ratio is close to same between them.

nv4500 adaptor

6.9 nv4500 swap

390 nv4500 swap

nice just be aware the NV4500 is stupid heavy and literally solid cast iron its almost bullet proof but man is it a bear to fight with