DTI Tech Time on the way!

[DavidS]

Should be here next week. This is the eBay one that I think a few other members have as well. https://www.ebay.com/itm/291925919893

Finally taking the advice of several on here who have suggested I get my own since I can't find any shops near me that have one.

Anybody have any tips or trick to share for this particular unit? This will be my first time messing with timing, I mainly want to start by verifying where it's at now.

I found an old post with a video for using a Tech Time but the youtube link says "private" and won't play.

 

[Clb]

Clean the paint off #1injector line close as possible to the injector where it's straight DON'T use the bend.

Cut a wedge of wood to hold the arm open at 2k.

I use a spring to hold the lever in place (iirc you have to take the linkage off).

DON'T START IT WITH THE 3 I.P. BOLTS LOOSE.

i think the bore is ?5\15? For the probe a drill bit will help clean the crud out.

clean the groove in the balancer up good.

3 business cards tween the mag probe and balancer.

good clean shinny ground.

 

[Big Bart]

Some tips

1) Read the instructions (Only 3 pages.), they are generic bit is shares to how to avoid damaging the unit. Such as plugging in the damper probe when the unit is off.
2) Timing is set at 8.5* btdc at 2,000 rpm. Some prefer 9.5*.
3) On the timing tab on the truck you use the taller hole to right.
4) Members say it helps to use as I recall a 5/16 drill bit by hand to clean it out.(If the bit is more than snug in the hole I am incorrect about bit size.) Some have found they had to remove the clip on the timing probe to get it to fit.
5) Clean out the timing mark on the damper so it is easier for the probe to sense.
6) The damper probes are finicky, members have stated having then probe 1,2,3, or 4 business cards got the probe to eventually work.
7) IDIBronco shared it is easier to by DTI’s timing gun for that box for $90 and deal with the damper probe.(Probe is replaced by the light.)
8) Piezo clip goes on the #1 injector, passenger side by radiator. Clean the paint and dirt off so the clamp is on clean steel. Same with ground clamp. Put as close to injector as possible but not in a bend. If the rpm is working the clamp is working.
9) Many of us have ground the head off a box wrench and bent a another where the open end is to assist with getting the ip nuts loose.
10) Do not run the truck or adjust the iup with the ip nuts loose.
11) leaning IP to the passenger side is advancing and towards the drivers side is loosening it.
12) on the front of the IP it has a knob you can put a wrench on to turn it for adjusting. If only going 2-3 degrees many leave the lines in the IP. If going +4 suggest you loosen the injector lines. Then relighted snug tight not hulk tight that will damage them.

 

[Big Bart]

Looks like CLB beat me to the draw. But ditto on what he said.

 

[DavidS]

Great stuff guys, thanks so much! Tracking says it will arrive tomorrow. Might be able to jump on it Sunday.

I think I'll give it a try with the damper probe first and then get the light if I'm not successful. I'm assuming it's the one on this page: https://tinytach.com/timing-equipment , 5th item down.

 

[TNBrett]

Great stuff guys, thanks so much! Tracking says it will arrive tomorrow. Might be able to jump on it Sunday.

I think I'll give it a try with the damper probe first and then get the light if I'm not successful. I'm assuming it's the one on this page: https://tinytach.com/timing-equipment , 5th item down.

In my experience the mag probe works great. The only trouble is getting it to fit in the hole. The hole is 5/16" and my probe was 8mm. It was just a few thousandths difference. I removed the spring collar from the probe (that will make sense when you see it in person) and filed it down slightly. I then cleaned it up with a bit of emery cloth. It took less than 10 minutes. Also you can use the timing adapter that came standard on our engines on the #1 cylinder.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I'm assuming it's the one on this page: https://tinytach.com/timing-equipment , 5th item down.

Yes that's it if you want to use their light. I do and I love it. There's also many cheaper lights that you can use. Their biggest downfall (and the reason why I bought the DTI light) is that you have to run the engine RPM, adjust the meter timing, and hold the light all at the same time. Easy enough to do if you have a helper though. With the DTI light, you can actually adjust the meter timing with the two buttons on the light while you're running the light.

 

[chicken bones]

I decided to purchase the DTI Timing light , because I am not having much luck with the probe. Do I need to bring the engine up to 2000 rpm with the timing light to get a proper adjustment ? any other tips on using the light ? Thanks.

 

[TNBrett]

I decided to purchase the DTI Timing light , because I am not having much luck with the probe. Do I need to bring the engine up to 2000 rpm with the timing light to get a proper adjustment ? any other tips on using the light ? Thanks.

Yes. 2000 rpm is where the timing is checked and set. The timing at any other speed is irrelevant to the proper setting.

 

[Big Bart]

I decided to purchase the DTI Timing light , because I am not having much luck with the probe. Do I need to bring the engine up to 2000 rpm with the timing light to get a proper adjustment ? any other tips on using the light ? Thanks.

Lots of folks are seeing the light!

I posted this last night in the IDI tech article section, it might answer some of your questions.

How to set the timing on your 6.9 or 7.3 IDI and how to buy timing equipment.

This thread is how to set timing on your NA or Turbo 6.9 or 7.3 F250 or F350 pick up. When should you check your timing? Every 30,000 miles. As your pump and injectors wear, they begin to open sooner generally. (Lower pop pressure.) This changes your engines timing. As an IP wears it may take...

www.oilburners.net

If you use the light you do not use the 20* offset.

With the timing light option you will set the advance to 8.5*. (Because there is no mark for 8.5* on the damper tab.). Then you match the damper timing mark to the middle of the lower left tube on the damper tab. You will set/check the timing at 2,000 rpms. That left lower tab/tube is at TDC. The advance feature will cause the light to flash 8.5* later. So you can line up the damper mark with the TDC tube/mark. But it is set at 8.5* btdc.

Just a reminder that you only move the IP with the engine off. It’s reported a loose IP can twist when running and ruin it.

 

[chicken bones]

Excellent , very good information,thank you . I have installed R&D 80cc Pump , and R&D injectors , also replaced glow plugs / glow plug connnectors , fuel return kit and Fuel filter. Justine at R&D suggested timming at 7 deg. ? I have static timed the pump , the Truck seems to run very good , starts right up no excessive smoke . Still waiting for my DTI Timming Light to arrive. Couple questions , Can I damage anything by driving a Truck thats static Timed ? Your artical mentioned loosening fuel lines if Timming out lots ? I hope mine is close because some of the lines were tough to get on the injectors, do you loosen at the pump or injectors or both ? If its the Pump how do I do this ? I had to have pump out to get them on. no way I could get a wrench on them now . Is there a special wrench for this job ? Thanks agian.

 

[Clb]

Fuel injection servicing for the 6.9/7.3 IDI

Many thanks to user Agnem better know as Mel for the indepth article on the servicing of the fuel injection system on the 6.9 and 7.3 IDI engines. Please follow the link to Mels article. Article Here

www.oilburners.net

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Can I damage anything by driving a Truck thats static Timed ?

You should be fine. Your engine won't run as effeciently as if it was in time. If it's out very far, it may be down on power, but if your IP and injectors were pretty worn, you may not notice with the new parts. If the timing's out quite a ways, your engine may tend to run hot, especially when worked, so keep an eye on the temperature gauge.

Your artical mentioned loosening fuel lines if Timming out lots ? I hope mine is close because some of the lines were tough to get on the injectors, do you loosen at the pump or injectors or both ? If its the Pump how do I do this ? I had to have pump out to get them on. no way I could get a wrench on them now . Is there a special wrench for this job ? Thanks agian.

Just loosen the lines at the IP. You can use a crow's foot and an extension to loosen the lower lines.

 

[Clb]

To much advance kills glows
To retarded kills power and builds heat
Timed just right is a per engine situation
Realize the witness marks on ip\vearcase are only correct on the first assembly

 

[Big Bart]

Excellent , very good information,thank you . I have installed R&D 80cc Pump , and R&D injectors , also replaced glow plugs / glow plug connnectors , fuel return kit and Fuel filter. Justine at R&D suggested timming at 7 deg. ? I have static timed the pump , the Truck seems to run very good , starts right up no excessive smoke . Still waiting for my DTI Timming Light to arrive. Couple questions , Can I damage anything by driving a Truck thats static Timed ? Your artical mentioned loosening fuel lines if Timming out lots ? I hope mine is close because some of the lines were tough to get on the injectors, do you loosen at the pump or injectors or both ? If its the Pump how do I do this ? I had to have pump out to get them on. no way I could get a wrench on them now . Is there a special wrench for this job ? Thanks agian.

Potentially you can damage things if dramatically out of time. But if it runs well then not likely if just run as is till you get your timing meter.

If R&D says 7*, I would follow his advice. I am sure there is a reason when you buy his rebuilds.

Loosen the lines at the pump. I use a wrench and a crows foot. FYI the pump has a knob on the front top you can use a wrench on to turn it left or right.