Just started my 7.3* build

Buffetkiller

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The motor is ready to pull!

Another quick question is, What exactly is an "R&R" like everyone talks about with these? I am of coarse putting new head gaskets on along with heads. i do have a complete engine gasket set also. Is there anything else to look for or do?

I was gonna do the rear main seal only if it leaks though.
 

Buffetkiller

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Also I'm thinking about resituating the turbo charge pipe and intake pipe. The CDR? valve was mounted to the big hunky banks intake. Where would one put that CDR valve if they were doing turbo work?
 

IDIBRONCO

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are the cams usualy good on these motors. I was planning on not looking at it...
Usually, yes they are. The exception would be if there had been something drastically wrong such as a lifter roller stopping. That was something that occasionally happened with the earlier 6.9's. They used a bushing for the rollers to roll on. The later ones used needle bearings and those seldom fail. You have a 7.3 so yours should have needle bearings. I'm about 98% certain that all of the new lifters that are sold today have the needle bearings. The exception may be if you try to cheap out and buy something like "Enginetech" brand from Rock Auto.

ill just have to give it a light cleaning and spray with a hose being careful not too get water inside.
I still don't recommend using a garden hose at all, but if you do, be EXTREMELY
careful with the water.
What exactly is an "R&R" like everyone talks about with these?
It may not be the exact words, but I usually say "remove and reinstall". R&R is just shorter and faster to say and write.
 

Buffetkiller

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Usually, yes they are. The exception would be if there had been something drastically wrong such as a lifter roller stopping. That was something that occasionally happened with the earlier 6.9's. They used a bushing for the rollers to roll on. The later ones used needle bearings and those seldom fail. You have a 7.3 so yours should have needle bearings. I'm about 98% certain that all of the new lifters that are sold today have the needle bearings. The exception may be if you try to cheap out and buy something like "Enginetech" brand from Rock Auto.

I still don't recommend using a garden hose at all, but if you do, be EXTREMELY
careful with the water.
It may not be the exact words, but I usually say "remove and reinstall". R&R is just shorter and faster to say and write.

Well I guess I need to rename the thread again. I did find out mine is a 6.9L.

My motor didn't run bad, just needs gaskets so I'm sure the 2.5 gallons of oil kept the cam nice then:)


Now im in a pickle though..... the motor is wedged in between the firewall and the studs on the motor mounts. I have tried to knock the studs back but the turbo stops it from going backward. I screwed up and should have listened to you IDIBRONCO..... any advice? I may try to put some tension on it with my forklift and take the motor mounts off but other than that im wedged.

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IDIBRONCO

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Yes. I think that separating the motor mounts will be your best bet at this point. If you can get those bolts with the 5/8" heads out of the motor mounts, you should be able to move the bottoms enough to get them clear out of the truck and then you may/should be able to get the engine the rest of the way out.
 

Buffetkiller

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the motor is out. YAY! I although feel way in over my head.. lol. But 1 thing at a time and I will get it done.

What is the procedure for making sure the IP is put back in the same timing as it was? As in like do I mark it somehow?
 

IDIBRONCO

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What is the procedure for making sure the IP is put back in the same timing as it was? As in like do I mark it somehow?
Scribe a line on both the IP and the housing that it mounts to. You can even lightly use a chisel to mark them. So did you take the motor mounts apart to get the engine out?
 

Buffetkiller

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Oh sorry I forgot to report back. Yes i did split them and also took off the upper portion of my Y pipe which was smashed inbetween the bell and firewall....
 

Buffetkiller

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OK I feel like there is a lack of pictures on this thread so here you guys go... this is where I'm currently at

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Buffetkiller

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As you can see I was surprised to find out I had a rebuilt IP. it says 67cc on it so i assume its just factory settings(as the modified pumps start at 90 I believe)

Right now I'm trying to figure out how I can make my turbo drain way more reliable because that is half the reason it leaked so much oil.

I will also be doing mods to my intake and plumbing the turbo differently(intake/charge)

Couple questions for you guys...

1. How do you guys get those dang fuel return lines squeezed on the fittings?! I gave up after 1 side cause they weren't going on all the way. lol.

2. Are the NAPA Autolight glow plugs any good? Says they replace the factory ford part number but just wondering about any experiences.

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miles1400

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@Buffetkiller just get Ford ZD-9 glow plugs. autolights tend to swell up. as for the full return hose, heat up some water in the microwave and stick the hose end in. the heat will make it easier to get on and it wont damage it.
 

Buffetkiller

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@Buffetkiller just get Ford ZD-9 glow plugs. autolights tend to swell up. as for the full return hose, heat up some water in the microwave and stick the hose end in. the heat will make it easier to get on and it wont damage it.
Thanks for the fuel line help. I was trying a drop of motor oil on the fitting and that wasn't working.

As for the glow plugs I already bought them so oh well I guess... how to do they "swell"?
 
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