Just started my 7.3* build

[IDIBRONCO]

I think she's referring to the picture of your truck in your first post. The cab corners are nice and rust free.

 

[hacked89]

What? Lol

Yea when I saw that first picture of your truck and cab corners I said "wow" to myself haha

We don't see that type of ******* material in the Mid-Atlantic often.

Not to mention the consistent panel gaps. In PA many of the trucks you see have crunched front fenders and doors because the cab mounts in the front are rusted out and drop the cab doors into the front fenders.


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[Danielle]

Sorry when this thread first loaded I didn't realize it was already pages long haha. I can't believe how rust free that truck is. Looking forward to seeing your progress!

 

[Buffetkiller]

Oh yes. Rust free for sure i do live in washington state so we see rust alot too. Also it came from Aberdeen wa which is right on the ocean so i guess you could say its a survivor... except for my ebrake line...

 

[Buffetkiller]

Told you guys this was going to be slow. Just ordered studs the other night. Now I need to know where everyone is getting a complete engine gasket kit? I would like to seal as much things as I possibly can while I have the motor out

 

[Philip1]

I got my gasket set off of rockauto

 

[Buffetkiller]

Was it good quality gaskets? And enough to reseal the whole motor?

 

[Philip1]

It has all the gaskets except the intake. I havent run them much yet but they looked well made when I was doing the install. It also came with a oil pan gasket but you do not want to use it. Use silicone instead or it will likely leak.

 

[79jasper]

Iirc, intake gasket is made into the valley pan.
Something like "the right stuff" might be okay.

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[Buffetkiller]

Thanks for the feedback

 

[Buffetkiller]

Its been a while but I've been slowly getting parts together. I now have studs, headgaskets and new injectors.(thanks Wes!)

Today I have started the motor pull. Got the core support pulled, Rad, wire harness, heater core lines, exhaust, and a few motor mount bolts I believe. Stopped due to darkness and bloody hands...

I have some questions if anyone would like to pitch in.
1. Are the motor mount bolts the 4 short ones with a 5/8 head?
2. In the pictures, what is that gold tube with the wire on the fuel line?
3. Also in the pics what is the hex head thing with wires coming from it?
4. What would be your advice on pulling the turbo? before or after motor pull?
5. How are you guys getting your motors so clean without getting water/grime in the intake/exhaust/coolant jackets etc...

any help would be appreciated

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[IDIBRONCO]

I have some questions if anyone would like to pitch in.
1. Are the motor mount bolts the 4 short ones with a 5/8 head?
2. In the pictures, what is that gold tube with the wire on the fuel line?
3. Also in the pics what is the hex head thing with wires coming from it?
4. What would be your advice on pulling the turbo? before or after motor pull?
5. How are you guys getting your motors so clean without getting water/grime in the intake/exhaust/coolant jackets etc...

any help would be appreciated

1. Yes and no. Yes these do separate the motormounts. No, they only separate the two parts of the motor mounts. There are four nuts underneath the crossmember that will let the whole motor mount come free from the frame. I have never needed to separate the two parts of Ford motor mounts in order to pull or install an engine.
2. That is the 6.9 style of fuel heater. Do they work? I really have no idea.
3. That's your tach pick up (sensor).
4. Wes likes to keep the turbo on the engine during pulling and installing. As for me, I NEVER do this, but I also NEVER remove the radiator core support to pull the engine out of a truck. To me, the way I pull engines is less work and is faster. The turbo R&R is more difficult and takes longer, but it's something that I deal with.
5. This involves stripping the engine down to a bare block and heads. Then the clean up is easy and it doesn't matter if you get a little bit of water into the coolant passages or the ports in the heads. The next best way is to use A LOT of engine degreaser and A LOT of elbow grease to scrub it as clean as you can get it.

 

[Buffetkiller]

So I will not be disassembling the bottom end, just taking the oil pan off to reseal for kicks. Your telling me I can just spray the whole motor with a hose?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

So I will not be disassembling the bottom end, just taking the oil pan off to reseal for kicks. Your telling me I can just spray the whole motor with a hose?

If you're not going to completely disassemble the engine, I wouldn't recommend doing that.You'll get water into your bearings and won't be able to get it back out without removing the rest of the parts. That would, most likely, lead to rust on your cam and crank. When I said "bare block and heads", I meant nothing but a bare engine block, preferrably with at least the oil galley plugs removed and the bare heads with no valves in them. That is the only way that I'd recommend spraying the block and heads with water. At this point, I like to spray the parts with engine degreaser or even a can of oven cleaner, let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes, hose it off at a car wash (not that I'm promoting this), and then wipe down the cylinders with WD-40. Finally, I blow it all off as quickly as I can with compressed air to remove the rest of the water, The easier way is to take the block and heads to a machine shop and have them hot tank your parts.

 

[Buffetkiller]

ok so ill just have to give it a light cleaning and spray with a hose being careful not too get water inside.

are the cams usualy good on these motors. I was planning on not looking at it...