Re-ring...nozzle issues??? Tired of project

[Thewespaul]

Wow, what a mess. I would start by measuring your valve recession and piston protrusion on each cylinder to make sure theres no variance there, Ive already talked to Justin and he confirmed the cam is installed correctly.

Was the block or heads ever media blasted? Maybe there was some media left in the engine.
What does your air filter setup look like?

I don't think you were blowing the 910s open even with them unshimmed, I've run more boost on stock springs without valves making imprints, but they definitly start to float around 25 psi. Granted, that was a stock cam but I think if it were the more aggressive cam causing them to float you would see imprints on every piston. With it being on some, theres got to be a variance somewhere in the machining or valvetrain that is causing certain valves to hit.

Can you pull the housings off the turbo and post pictures of any wear on the wheels? That would help show where the wear is coming from, the cylinder walls look terrible for the amount of miles.

The single burnt glow plug is odd, have you pop tested the injectors?

 

[Torinojts]

The intake pipe is a 4inch pipe and a K&N air filter. Has a boot on both ends, 1 necked down to the turbo. I pulled the boots off and looked, cant see any dust. But intake pipe is full of oil from the blow by. I inspected the inside of the filter with a magnify glass and light, absolutely no dust on the inside. Block was not media blasted, nor the intake. I looked at the compressor wheel, with out disassembly and do not see any signs of dust going thru the turbo, i will pull apart tomorrow.

All the pistons have imprints from the valves, the back two on each side have a shined up spot like they were still hitting ???. I thought the back four do to the intake on the manifold is closer to those pistons.

 

[79jasper]

Do you know how many times this engine has been rebuilt?
How much was the block milled? What about the heads?


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[Torinojts]

As far as I know the engine was original with 258,000 miles and never been touch. It did have a rough life the way the pickup looked that I took it out of. Surprisingly though the coolant did have conditioner in it when I checked it and bought the truck. The first machine shop told me they milled .07 off the block and .05 off the heads.

I did not get as much inspected as I would like to have the other night. I got the top of the block cleaned up and checked the 5 pistons that are still in the block. Protrusion varies on those 5 from .28 - .30. I did install 10 under pistons and had a couple shaved down so the protrusion was about the same on all pistons. That also told me more was shaved off the block than what the “machinist” had told me. I also checked the valve recession on a couple and they are on the high end of spec. .#2 - .55, #4 - .54, #6 - .56, #8 - .53. I did not check the exh yet or the other head yet. #6 is the valve that was still hitting pretty good and making the ticking noise. The more I look into this the more I am kicking my self. After the first machine shop said they milled the heads, I did check recession. It was out of spec by about 3 thousands per valve. I did set the heads on, with a crushed gasket and clay the valves to piston clearance, and to close for my comfort. So I did send the heads to a different machine shop second time around to “put” valves into spec......unfortunately I did not check them the second go around...kicking myself now.....

As far as the dusted engine look the only thing I can think of is this is due to the piston particals flying around the cylinder every time it hits the valves. Still need to pull apart turbo and inspect.

 

[Torinojts]

Alright I thoroughly cleaned the heads, used a different dial indicator. Reached valve recession, and all with in spec. Bolted heads back down and checked valve to piston clearance. Clearance as far as I could tell is around .060. Hard to tell with a mashed up piston. So my block was milled and .010 under pistons, and piston protrusion is correct. Heads were milled, valve recession is correct., is the block and heads being milled causing different geometry of the rockers and opening the valves further open? Is the cam ground wrong? Or is the boost slightly holding valves open?

 

[Thewespaul]

What method are you using to check your piston to valve clearance? Have you degreed the cam to make sure you don’t need to change your cam timing? Honestly if it were me I would put a stock cam back in it, they make plenty of power and are much less work to fit in our valve train geometry.

 

[Torinojts]

i pulled the insides out of a hydraulic lifter and made it a solid lifter. Put clay on the top of the pistons and barred engine over. Normally like you would on a gasser. Is there a different what to check valve to piston clearance on a diesel? Also i just thought of are my pushrods to long with block and heads being machined? Can you get shorter pushrods for these?

 

[DaveBen]

The hydraulic lifters will do this. But now since you have solid lifters you will have to adjust the the rocker arms do get some clearance.

 

[79jasper]

The hydraulic lifters will do this. But now since you have solid lifters you will have to adjust the the rocker arms do get some clearance.

He made the lifters solid just for checking clearance.
You can get shorter pushrods.

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[Thewespaul]

You can also check your clearance by putting a dial indicator directly on each cam lobe through the lifter bore checking your lift every 5* then bolting on the heads and checking your clearance to the piston by holding the valve up by a light spring and pushing down on the valve until it contacts the piston with an indicator on the valve tip to see what room you have for lift. Take your readings on the lobe and multiply it by the rocker ratio and youll have your piston to valve clearance.

 

[hce]

Degree the cam. Mine was closest to the intended timing events when dot to dot.

 

[Torinojts]

Machine shop wants $175 + cost of sleeves per hole on my block. So I found an engine with 181,254 miles on it. It will be coming out of an ambulance, $400 and it still runs quite well, I just have to pull it. The engine is a non-turbo so I will just swap my crank, rods, balancer and flex plate. Bearings still look like new on my crank(they should though with only 1,000 miles on them). So I will need to buy idit pistons. I am having a hard time finding stock idit pistons even .010 or .020 for that fact. I will assemble this engine and check the degree and lift of the stock cam vs the R&D cam, along with the piston to valve clearance to see where I am sitting. I am just so frustrated with the first build don't feel like finding the root cause anymore.....machining, cam timing, not shimming the 910 springs???..I will look into it further just discouraged right now, hate to have the same thing happen to a second build.

 

[79jasper]

hate to have the same thing happen to a second build.

Then leave the internals alone. Don't go swapping everything around.

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[Thewespaul]

I would stud the new donor, install your valve springs and regasket it, then work on your old engine on the side while you enjoy the truck with a healthy engine. Unless you plan on making more than 400hp the na setup is fine, if you want to swap parts from your old engine I can get you the idit parts you need.

 

[Torinojts]

I am going to tear the engine down to inspect. EVERYTHING on this truck is new. transmission rebuilt with torque converter. front and rear diffs rebuilt. all new suspension and steering components. body is frame off restoration, it would drive me nuts to just throw an engine in without inspection. I would also be concerned about the NA rods and pistons. Camshaft, 110 pump and stage 1 nozzles from R&D and a turbo build from CDD. hate to throw to much at an NA internals then have a failure six months down the road.

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